kramttocs

Thanks Rob for adding the photo - was going to try and find one today Yours and Gary's is the same. The silver casing Gary is showing with the two spring clips snaps into the bracket that screws to the dash as seen in your photo. The little blue cap goes over the silver casing.

Great find. Price was really good if only for the heads and goosenecks. The brackets looked a little rusty but may clean up well.

Just saw the post in the BB thread about it. I skimmed over it and again, sounds hard to beat. While for a different purpose, it reminds me of the Dakota Digital SGI-100BT I looked at awhile back.

Does this mean you won't need (or at least as urgently need) the Arduino unit? If so, I vote no on the MM ...... Ok, it does look very simple yet functional and at that price point, really hard to argue with.

Congrats all!

Kit 8112 is great for the interior screws. There will be quite a few that you won't use though so I'd recommend foregoing the kit and just ordering the packets you need from O'Reillys. Some of the frequent ones I used were: 5791, 5984, 2970. Kit 8603 is a great one for body panels. I ended up switching to all stainless so didn't use many of these in the 86 but will in the 81. 9887 are the screws used for attaching the inner fender liner to the fender wheel well. These three were some I ordered that didn't come in the pack. The nuts were for the supercab backseat window exterior trim/molding. Some of the photos aren't the greatest - didn't want to wait for the overhead shop lights to warm up so if you need any better ones, let me know. The only screws I didn't replace where the tapered heads ones with and without the 'cup' on them that got pc'd. I know they are just screws but I would recommend Disco without hesitation. They have a great factory looking finish.

I am a big fan of Disco fasteners. They can be bought online or ordered in for a reasonable price in most cases, through O'Reillys. I'll run out later and take some photos of the screws next to their label with the number on it.

Agreed for sure. Get some miles on the bronco before it gets cold. If you are good with leaving the fuse links there (no functional reason why you can't) then I would leave the other wiring as it is for now also. If you decide to ever move them up to 1 on the fmr that's when I would consider moving the starter live cable to 1 also and put a larger cable going from the battery to 1 in place of the 8/10awg you have there right now. That's also the time I would see about replacing the clamp style battery connector with a solid option. I've just had bad luck with that style but ymmv. Just some stuff to think about.

Amen! A lot of great looking trucks/stories.

Excellent! That is great news and more than happy to help. Are you planning to leave the fuse links down on the starter or move them up to 1 on the fmr?

Great! I've never messed with an auto-ranging setting so that's good to know. Thanks Gary and Steve. Perfect. You are correct - that three wire post will have constant voltage on it at all times and this was just to ensure the starter was grounded through the block. The next step is to run a 8/10awg wire from the stud on the starter solenoid that the red wire used to be on and bring it up to #4 on the fmr. At this point you are ready to start it. The two fuse links on the three wire post on the starter solenoid could be moved up to #1 on the fmr if you want it closer to original and I would for visibility and easier future troubleshooting but it doesn't have to be done right now. When doing so increase the awg of the short wire between the POS battery terminal and #1.

Bingo. Set the multimeter to 20 on DC if that is an option. Looking forward to finding out what's going on with this. If you want to get a jump on the next step - crawl under by the starter with your multimeter and touch the red probe to the terminal with 3 wires and the black to the thick flange of the starter the bolts goes through to mount it. Should see the full battery voltage. Then go ahead and run a 8/10awg wire from the stud the red wire used to be on and bring it up to the fmr. Don't hook it to anything yet though. Just get it there and ready.

Hey Gary. Yeah, the voltage drop he is seeing seems pretty proportional based on his resting voltage for the R/LB wire. So #2 checks out. #1 is a given so that just leave #4. Since the relay was an unknown his test right now is with 1 having battery power and 2 having the R/LB wire. Nothing else is hooked up to the fender mounted relay. I can't explain #4 having voltage with the original relay, let alone the new one he picked up. Until we get that addressed, I am not confident suggesting the next step of connecting a wire from #4 to the solenoid on the starter. Jason - think you could upload a video of the multimeter when checking voltage on #4 against the negative battery terminal with the key off?

My R/BL wire is 11.79 when in Start with a resting battery voltage of 12.24 I am just not sure on the 4 having voltage. Jim, Bill, Gary? Have you guys seen that before?

I know my 4 shows 0v just unsure of 2's voltage drop. With it being an Auto in Park, it would just try to crank even with the coil plugged in (key off) but it's just like jumping the starter on a tractor with a screwdriver - do it all the time but wouldn't feel good telling anyone else to Even if it doesn't cause the starter to engage, it's still a drain that you won't want.

Interesting. I would expect higher than 9.6v on the R/Bl but I can check mine later. As you are seeing/feeling/hearing, that is enough to pull in the relay though. What more concerns me is voltage on 4 with the key off. Since the next step is to run a new 8/10awg wire from 4 to the starter solenoid (the stud that original had the red wire that is now on 2), I don't want you doing that if there is any chance the starter could engage with the key off. It's not uncommon for off the shelf fmr's to be bad or go bad quickly. You could disconnect 1 and check continuity between 1 and 4 but I think I'd just go pick up a new one. I don't see that the fmr was replaced in the first post. Do you know the history of it? Possibly it going bad was the reason everything was moved to the starter solenoid?

1. What values are you seeing 4 jump around to when the key is off? 2. If you check the voltage on 2 with the key off, what do you get?

Let's do numbers instead as left/right can get confusing. I am referring to 1 and 2 for now. Please verify that 2 has an S near it. I haven't seen S and I swapped but always good to confirm. The wire from the battery will go to 1. The smaller red wire currently alone down on the starter solenoid will go to 2. Nothing will be on 3. Multimeter will go to 4 and ground.

I read over the first post again after seeing the fender mounted relay (fmr) and it finally clicked with what was going on. Sorry, didn't get last night what Bill grasped right off the bat. Hadn't ever thought about anyone moving everything down to the starter solenoid and foregoing the fender mounted relay. When you said nothing was hooked to it I read that as it was removed recently for diagnostics. That also make sense with the mention of added load on the ignition switch since the solenoid takes a lot more than the fmr. Again, sorry everyone for being late to the party. Taking it in a multi step approach: 1. Ignore the stud on the starter solenoid with 3 wires (positive battery, 2 fuse links) 2. Remove the smaller red wire and move it to the S stud on the fmr. As mentioned earlier, it should be crimped to a red/blue wire when they extended it down there to the starter solenoid. 3. Run a wire from the battery positive to the far left hand stud on the fmr. We can talk about battery cable terminal options later but for this test you can loosen the clamp holding the wire (not the battery stud), insert a stripped end of wire in there and clamp it back. Then run this wire to the left hand stud. Again, I would not do this permanently. Use 8/10 awg for this. It may change later depending upon what is done with the fuse links. Once that is done you can test the ignition switch and fmr. Nothing should be on the right hand stud except for the multimeter. When not cranking, the right hand stud on the fmr should show no voltage. When cranking it should show full voltage. I would test this a number of times and report back.

Not the switch but rather the relay (fender mounted and often called a solenoid). The actual ignition switch mounted halfway down on the steering column doesn't know the difference between the standard starter and the PMGR. All it knows is what it takes to energize the fender mounted relay. The PMGR takes the load off the fender mounted relay because now the relay doesn't need to carry the load of the actual starter. Only the solenoid down on the starter. This means the relay is only carrying a fraction of what it can carry and thus the idea is that it will last a LOT longer. Regarding the fuse links, you shouldn't necessarily need to know where they go although it's always good info to have no doubt. Just saying there is no need to track them down through the harness(es). Only that they should be mounted to the same post on the fender mounted relay as the POS cable (as well as the large awg cable that goes to the starter). Think of that post/stud as just a distribution point. The fuse links and even the larger awg cable going to the starter could just as well be connected directly to the POS battery terminal. Speaking of the fuse links - could you add a photo of the fender mounted relay and all the wires around it that are or aren't connected? We should be able to give you some info on what they are for.

Haha even a blind squirrel.... With shipping, if it goes for the starting price it isn't bad.

Agreed. I should update my first post. I was thinking there had to be a difference originally but they are the same. I thought Gary's had a slight angle to the right although that would have made mine an unknown and it's not like they made a lot of variants Mine is actually the 81/ and came off an 86 diesel. The 80 is a z shaped piece with just one hole on each end.

Those look great! Gary - I was actually thinking the other day that we need a 3D/cad thread or section. Under Resources? Somewhere we can post anything truck related that was designed. I know the clutch clip was made awhile back. If a section, then maybe a post for each item. The poster can decide if they want to share the design or sell the product.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-81-82-83-84-85-86-Ford-Truck-GREEN-Hood-Bug-Shield-Deflector-Bronco-F-Series/293734988314 $149.95 Starting Bid. Free Shipping