kramttocs

Completely understood. I think the dowel rod would be a simple temp solution. Haven't ever tried poking anything up there but from when I had mine disassembled it seems like it would work.

Bob brings up a good point - you could always drill two matching holes on the passenger side and try it out. Not that drilling an unnecessary hole is something you might want to do but it would maintain symmetry (that may not matter to you in the least though).

Yeah, let me rephrase what I meant by that - is there any reason it can't be rotated to clear it (like it'd take too much)? Like the classic "can I go to the restroom?" "I don't know, can you?"

I like the look of the inboard one better. Those two pros for the outboard are pretty nice though: Output not impacted by winch upright Leaves you with a nice step to work from Can they be rotated out a bit, if inboard, to reduce the upright blockage?

Not sure how to get the link from the fb lite app but there is one in Stevens Point, WI.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Sliding-Rear-Window-Back-Glass-Fits-73-97-Ford-F150-F250-F350-/363196723096?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Agreed!

Agreed John and prying on it in colder weather would give me pause. Adding this here just in case it helps - this is the description of the hinge I bought that worked well (as would many). I am thinking that just pulling the pin and rotating one side got it really, really close to the right offset. Aluminum 5052 Continuous Hinge without Holes, Unfinished, 0.06" Leaf Thickness, 3" Open Width, 1/8" Pin Diameter, 1/2" Knuckle Length, 1' Long (Pack of 1) There is still a listing on Amazon for it but the price is about $70 more than it used to be.

We'll give them an E for effort.

Isn't it a scam site? I thought it just pulled info from ebay

With the bottom plenum off can you stick a dowel rod (or similar) up through that door and see if you can poke the broken door over to close off the vent plenum? Likely will have to leave the rod in there wedged but might be enough to get you by for a bit.

That works! Just created a new thread successfully.

Ok, I'll stop trying I have no problem logging out and logging in here but over there (same uid/pwd) it just reloads the login form.

I can browse and that is working well but it's not letting me login to try out posting.

Thanks Bill - I was thinking 'blend' since it contains a partial position but mode makes more sense. Updated and noted this above. What's the improved part in the later years? Did they fix this hinge and find a way to keep the foam on the doors?

As soon as I saw this post I was thinking "this is right in Lariat85's wheelhouse" The OD has the locating pins correct? Assuming this 4x4 one does also? I am like Steve, never seen one on a bullnose in person and per Jmac's research, sounds like photos are rare as well. Never been around the OD tranny so this may be a stupid question but in our years was the 4wd version common?

Sorry to hear that Steve. Did you already purchase the new door?

Thanks a lot Mark! Glad to know (and surprised) that they can be obtained new. Just to have reference, 1980 and 1981-86 each have the following options: "B" FOR MODELS WITH STANDARD WARNING LIGHTS AND WITHOUT OPTIONAL OIL PRESSURE AND ALTERNATOR GAUGES. "C" FOR MODELS WITH TACHOMETER, OIL PRESSURE AND ALTERNATOR GAUGES AND WITHOUT WARNING LIGHTS. "D" FOR MODELS WITH OIL PRESSURE AND ALTERNATOR GAUGES AND WITHOUT WARNING LIGHTS OR TACHOMETER.

I don't know - I am crossing my fingers that I am wrong. Would be much better if it wasn't that mode door failure.

I think this picture makes it the easiest to visualize the flow: [ignoring the Mix position] 18A361 (mode) impacts flow between dash (vent) and defrost/floor If 18A361 is closed off to the vents, then 18A478 directs flow between defrost/floor. Sounds like you've ran into the problematic plastic hinge failure on the mode door. A number of us here have done this repair within the past year or two. Some out of truck and some in Karl on FTE did an excellent guide on this From his opening paragraph: Edit: corrected the name of the door to 'mode' as opposed to 'blend' which is the cable actuated temp door

Not sure you could ask for one better - both in single connector functionality as well as location.

I agree but if the column, pedal box, and clutch mc will all be out, there's not much more removal needed that I know of. Maybe just the cowl? Which saying just the cowl is a bit of an oversimplification if it has a new/nice paint job. I've not personally installed one of the big ones and have only removed the small ones so maybe I am overlooking something? Bulletin No.: 90-16-7 E3TZ-7K509-A (small) E3TZ-7K509-B (large)

Adding a link here just in case we have something new to add to this Resources thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Factory-wiring-locations-for-adding-additional-circuits-tp69894.html (it already has C125 but we could add Fog lights as another good use case) I was looking at other options after I posted the questions last night and if one has the Trailer package but no marker lamps, C915 is another good one. It is in the engine bay though. For the firewall penetration, the part I cleaned off the desk was a gutted EFI grommet. The one that goes to the right of the gas pedal. It's what I used in the 86 (jampacked at this point) and I'd grabbed a spare from the jy. On the engine side I put a wire clamp on one of the gas pedal bolts to keep the wires away from the valve cover. Can take photos if needed. I don't recall how you are implementing your future EFI change but that hole may not be free in your case? Either way, if you need the grommet as well as if you need a clock pigtail to mate with C125, let me know.

From what I heard Terrapin is no longer making them (the big one) and JBG is now the only source (aside from used/nos that may surface). That may have changed. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/83-91-Ford-Bronco-Ford-Truck-Firewall-Clutch-Repair-Bracket/productinfo/34010/?gclid=CjwKCAiAq8f-BRBtEiwAGr3DgTWCyEj0W8l1pNwvsZhT9BhY3ACWcqY4nfTWin1-m_uinWqZdc7EBRoCdlgQAvD_BwE I see the small one in the jy periodically. If possible, I'd go with the big one even if no existing damage but Jim is correct in that functionally the small one is all that would truly be needed.

Hey Gary, you haven't drawn out the wiring diagram for the fog light switch yet have you? Or do you know where you are tying into the parking lamp circuit (if using Bob's idea)? Was looking over the evtm for some other stuff, hit the parking lamp circuit, and just wondered your plan. Additionally, how are you doing the firewall penetration for all the switch wiring? I was doing some shop cleaning and ran across a part I should have thrown in the box as an option for this but you may have a great approach already.