kramttocs

86 is the earliest I've seen with that vss

Thanks Shaun for your cell. Unfortunately I got to the jy on Saturday morning and was told by the front desk that they weren't letting anyone in the yard that day. Will look for one the next time I go.

You bet! Shoot me your cell in a pm/email if you want and if I find one I'll send you the details just for confirmation. Hoping to go to the jy in the morning if the weather is good.

Bill - trucks looks great all decked out Those look really neat but what are they?

Subscribed and will see what I can find that is still easy to crawl under.

That is a really fun video to watch and a job well done!

I asked for that for Christmas. Daughter asked for a unicorn. She is out riding now... Guess Santa can only do so much. Hope everyone is having a great day!

Sorry Gary - bad deal on that tester Good thing Bill has a known working one. Thanks for adding the doc though!

Welcome aboard!

Sounds like a plan Shaun's looks better than even the best one I found in the jy.

Dave - first, let's ignore the connector I made. The factory trailer package is a lot like those Hoppy jumpers that plug in between the connectors at the rear frame cross member. Another comparison would be like how the speed control ties in between existing connectors. I could be wrong with the connector specifics here since because mine was cut already and just going off the evtm but... By way of this add-on jumper you get a 3 terminal connector for left turn, right turn, and running lights. The latter actually goes back up front to a relay and then back to the rear. There is also a 2 terminal connector for ground and backup lamps. Then there is another 3 terminal connector for +12v, brakes, and trailer lamps (don't ask what this one does) So normally there would be a 7 way connector harness with the mating connectors on it. All of the connectors on mine were cut off and terminated in bullet connectors. Enter the 8 gang male connector and (because they don't make one) the printed female. Speaking of - the petg came in so I printed one and swapped the new connectors in this evening.

Hey Jim - didn't have great luck on these. Pulled 5 of them but 4 were delaminated also (not sure if better or worse than yours but definitely not great). The 5th was a new addition to the jy and the green board looked good on it. Hard to tell on the yellow without pulling the green. The problem is that it doesn't match the numbers you listed so not sure if it would work. The green is: E8TF-10956-A. Question for you: I didn't take the clear cover or the gauges off any of them to look but what is the best way to remove those square metal inserts?

That bracket. Wow. I am impressed. I was actually wondering the same as Rusty when I saw those were Wedgelocks. I just assumed those were the relay trigger wires or low amp circuits and the heavier gauge came out the bottom. For those you'd still need some aftermarket connectors but not near as many. I've never messed with these PDB's though so I really am not sure. Interested to hear what Bill says. The highest amp circuit I can think of in the 86 that uses Wedgelocks would be the power locks (30A c.b).

Great idea on the connector! Can't get much more well-suited than that. Don't want to get too complicated but does it look like the isolator could go under the speed control unit? Just thinking that with the aux solenoid, mega fuse, and isolator plus the 2awg cable it may need to spread out a bit.

Merry Christmas! Yes - looking forward to seeing what everyone gets. Truck parts, shop stuff, socks...

I guess it's all relative When trying to do anything with the relays/connectors it seems like they are way down there but you're right that it's not much lower than the solenoid. For connectors I like the Metri-Pack line but like I mentioned in the Camano thread they can be bulky. Weather Pack is another option by Delphi. I think it's Jim or Bill that use the Deutsch connectors but I could be wrong. They look really flexible as they have a few different series. So you could mix the different series connectors to keep the number down by grouping the high amp and low amp circuits. Appears Amphenol may make something very similar. Haven't looked into them much so hopefully someone that has will be around to chime in.

Of course! We had just talked about the aux relay for the back seat power/inverter I've slept since then I guess. That sounds like the best chance at not having to redo anything later. So would the isolator go down low where the relays are now (in that little cover/holder)? Not sure if those screw holes would be space correctly or not. Here's an interesting product. Just ran across it while looking for smaller footprint mega or midi fuse holders for the firewall. Sadly looks to be by quote only as well as sacrificial so likely not a good one-off choice but still a neat idea. Another one (midi)

Old aux relay? Are you running both? If so, why? I know I sent you that power stud since we talked about this quite awhile ago but I don't recall the details. I would mount the isolator where the aux relay/power stud goes on the firewall only have it. Will require a little more length but nothing terrible.

Ok, someone want to share the joke? I didn't get it. Dane can spot a tach from a mile away

:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig: Yes!

Thanks guys! Cory - absolutely. I know you've spent more than your fair share wire wheeling lately. It really is nice to be able to work on something after cleaning and not worry about crud either falling in your eyes or somewhere in the part isn't supposed to be. Gary - the weather today was even better but sadly had to work during the best part of it... Jim - that is the big question now: driveshaft. I was going to ask Jonathan if he has a 1 or 2 piece. Since mine is 2wd I may be able to stick with two. Haven't been under the truck and paid attention to the front piece length to really have a guess at it. And yes, that truck needed no undercarriage wax treatment Dave - so will I lose any oil pulling that rear piece off? Haven't decided how deep I want to go into the tranny yet. I have no doubt it would benefit from some attention.

Here is a photo I took last year. You're right Shaun in that a lot of things, like the inner fenders turn grey with the hood up and I thought the same when I first glanced at it but it, and the other one are grey inside and out. You can tell this truck has had the hood up for quite a while though. Cory - I didn't realize yours had the Hi Output. That's neat!

Good eye Shaun. I guess I assumed it was a Florida truck, but other than it being sold in Florida it doesn't actually state anywhere that it's from Florida. So many northerners go down there it's hard to say where it would be from unless somebody recognizes those stickers. I'm seen them before, but I can't remember where...somewhere in the northeast likely. A couple of them have "21" on them which would seem they are valid until next year. Pennsylvania perhaps? Google returns a lot of PA inspection stickers looking similar.

In addition to the wording, all the Hi Output ones I've seen have also been grey. I think that is all of 2 so not sure if that holds true across the board.

Dave, I was actually able to get the tires installed yesterday. Ever try to install a set of tire/wheels without lifting them?>..ha. It took a little screwing around with the jack, but it worked. Anyway, I know that 31's on 10" rims is probably not the preferred set-up, but I was wanting this arrangement, and for all intents and purposes, this truck (if I can ever finish it) will not get driven very much or very far. The tires would rot before I'd ever wear them out. It really IS just a project for something to do, and something to play around with when done. Anyway, I ran into a bit of a snag yesterday. I'm trying to finish up some engine bay work before I install the core support. I need to do fuel pump, oil filter, steering box, wiring, etc...just a bunch of stuff that will be easier without the core support in place. I wasn't planning on changing the water pump right away, but when I pulled the short little stub of hose off it yesterday I found the hose barb was rusted out, so I guess I need to add a water pump to the list. Problem is...how to remove that darn clutch fan on the 300 when it's well rusted in place?? I have a wrench that fits it, and according to my searches it is reverse thread (right to loosen), but how in the bloody heck do you hold the water pump from turning? I guess I'll have to make some kind of plate that bolts on to 2 or 4 of the pulley bolt holes on the water pump? And then...pray (with a hammer) that I can break that clutch fan loose? Any tips or tricks from a 300 inline 6 guy? Really like those tires! Also didn't realize you had the aluminum frame slider. Very nice. I like that frame the best especially on a dark truck like yours.