Gary Lewis

I'm obviously not David, but he's off for the weekend and you aren't likely to hear (see?) from him until Tuesday. The most help would be to break the posts up by item, meaning that if you find several Sag pumps you have a post that has all of them and nothing else. That way they can just look at the title of the post and see if they are interested. But that puts all of the burden on you, and with your phone that's not easy. Another way that would help is to put them in one post, as you've been doing, but tell the reader what the link takes them to, like: Sag pump: url Condensor: url That way they wouldn't have to click on the link to find out. Also, did you get my text?

I'll have to check, but can't until tomorrow. However, I think the panels are held on with tabs that bend over on the back side of the door panel. And I know the chrome trim is held on with a combo of tabs and sheetmetal nuts on studs. So the Rosewood panels and the chrome trim can be added to your door panels. It'll take a bit of cutting and drilling, but it can be done.

It is apparently a voltage thing then. Most solid state systems will have a .7v drop across them, and perhaps battery voltage less .7v isn't quite enough to pull that relay in. Do you have another of those relays? Check to see what it takes. And back to the doors, since you are big on leaving the truck such that it could be put back stock, I guess having another relay wouldn't be a bad thing. But, since you have already added a lead to the ground side of the stock relay, why not put the to-be relay in the cab next to the factory relay? That way the RKE system can be removed, along with the extra relay w/o having to fish wire from under the hood.

/\ /\ /\ What he said, and didn't say. I'd love to have a Bronco. But I have NO business getting another project. Yes, I know that any Bullnose is going to be somewhat of a project 'cause it isn't going to be exactly to my liking. However, this one doesn't even come close to my liking. It is, frankly, hideous!

Cory has a good eye for photography. As does Jonathan. It is obvious in their pics. How do I know? 'Cause when we lived in the UK I bought every photography book and magazine they had and read every one. I understand the technology behind a shot, and can replicate a shot. But I can't create one on my own. It takes that special "eye" and I don't have it. As for the weather, it is funny what people will tolerate. If you grow up there you seem to accept that place's weather, regardless of how bad it is. Having moved around a bit we've come to observe the weather in various locations and realized what we like and dislike about them. Anyway, I'm for you getting another Bullnose - even if it has a narrow bed. I'd love to follow along on the journey.

Nice! Obviously there aren't enough pics nor details, but the price is nice.

Valve covers look great! I love them! And I'll bet that solves the problem. I'm not a fan of tin valve covers for that very reason. They invariably get bent and then are never the same. I've used them on several of my Bullnose trucks, but I'm always sure to straighten them before using, and then to use a good sealant on the gasket as well. Can't say much for the plug wire retainers. At least you could go with black zip ties to match the wires.

Well done, Vaughn! I like it. And, Bert Munro was cool. World's fastest Indian.

Well done! Looks good.

Yes, Rusty's diff is open up front. And, I think it is an open diff in the rear, although I'm not sure.

Points weren't used after some time in the 70's, so all the Bullnose trucks came with electronic ignition. Some, like Rusty, with DS-II and some with TFI. But let's go back to basics. Pull the vacuum advance hose and plug it. Then set the base timing to 12 degrees BTDC. Then check the vacuum advance hose. It should be connected to the "timed" vacuum port which is on the passenger's side of the front of the carb. Hook it back up to the distributor. Then check your idle air/fuel mix. Not knowing what your mechanic did, I would turn the idle mixture screws out slightly to see if the idle needs a bit more gas, or in to see if it needs less. You want the idle fuel mix to max out the idle RPM, so turn them in/out about 1/4 turn at a time until you get max RPM - but keep them balanced. Then, as a last step, adjust the idle to a nice 600 - 650 RPM. As for the coil, it could be going but stumbling under light load isn't where it would fail. Instead, it would fail under heavy load. So I doubt it is the coil. Have you checked to see that the choke is opening fully? If I remember correctly there's a relay on the passenger's fender that is pulled in by the stator wire from the alternator and gives the choke battery voltage when the engine is running. Make sure that is working and the choke is coming off fully - before you adjust the idle fuel/air mix.

You don't know what I got. Amen, brother!

David - Glad it worked. And it looks like you figured out a couple of slick tricks to do it. Well done!

I wish it did have "'Cause if I had a set of wings, man I know she could fly". (Who knows where that came from?)

Thanks! Kids should be here a week from tomorrow. But 'twixt then and now we are going to spend two days decorating graves. And I've got to clean the shop a bunch. So not much more will get done before they get here.

I think I'd be inclined to go with Door #2. One less thing to go wrong. But, I'd test it first. There's some real trickery going on with the resistors in the horn pad. So I'd put a Bosch relay in the factory relay's place and check. Pretty sure it'll work. And it is by your right knee.

Got the stand-offs powder coated and installed today: Then I installed them, tidied up the wires, and found a coil wire to fit and match. Then I decided I'd see how the dual snorkel air cleaner is going to fit. Turns out it is going to fit fine. Once the dizzy drops it'll clear the plug wires nicely. The only minor issue is that my new plug stand-off on the passenger's side is almost directly below the hot air intake on that snorkel. So if I'm going to have hot air I'll have to get it from the driver's side and close off the passenger's side opening.

Jim - Did you get my text? All - We now have two new pages:Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1996 EVTM/ Daytime Running Lamps Keyless Entry System

Well...it wasn't a complete bust, but neither was it really worth the ~30 mile drive to get down there. So here's what I found when I arrived: I was hoping to find some decent interior trim, such as uncracked A-pillar plastic, but no such luck. The truck had clearly been sitting outside unused for years, the interior was pretty much destroyed. I was also hoping for a 300 engine...turns out it did have a six-cylinder, but it was one of the 3.8L Essex engines that I'd never seen before. Took me a minute to figure out what I was looking at: Mostly so that the trip wouldn't be a complete waste, I grabbed the coolant/windshield fluid reservoir that was in better condition than mine, as well as a couple of taillight bulb sockets. Better than nothing! That's the way it goes sometimes. But you have to keep trying. Interesting that the AC compressor looks bigger than the engine.

Yes, I think it is pretty much all generic to other systems. In fact, take a look at how the '96 keyless entry system controls the horn - upper right below. And, we have the '96 KES on the website now: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1996 EVTM/Keyless Entry.

Cory - Looks fantastic! As for rolling the window down to close the door, I've heard that the later trucks have vents just because of that.

Are you a photographer? If so, you understand that to do a comparison you'll need to take one pic, say the "before" on automatic, then find the aperture and shutter speed that the camera used and dial those settings into the camera on Manual. Otherwise the camera will automagically adjust the shutter and/or aperture in both cases to get about the same brilliance.

You have a good point about the rear shocks. Hadn't thought of that. So, what's the plan, Stan? Quad?

It is similar to that but not exactly I'll get a picture shortly. Gary, It's like a regular bottom mount, but with bushing where the single shock would go and the shocks mount on either side with a bolt through the middle. Top mount is basically the same. I'm thinking Sky offroad design is going to get some more of my money and I'm just going to bite the bullet now on the Bilstein of Fox. Do you have a part number for the ones you used? So, all the force is on a bolt that only has support on one side? Better be a G8 bolt. Here's the label on the end of my box:

That certainly is good news. So, when the dust settles you'll do a how-to on installing keyless entry? Reminds me, I think I'll go scan in that section from the '96 EVTM. Might be able to find one of those in a salvage and graft it on.