Gary Lewis

Glad you got it in w/o accident. Moving it by yourself had to have been a huge hassle. Not seeing all the electrical issues it is hard to gauge, but if the wires are cut at the plugs that makes it much more difficult to fix. The last thing that did that to one of my vehicles died of lead poisoning. (A ground hog.) So the electrical problems may be a big enough issue to warrant the swap. On the ignition, can you pull the column and take it to the locksmith?

In a word, Arduino, as outlined here: Bricknose Sender to Bullnose Gauge Interface However, seeing the sender stuck on the side of the FDM with a couple of screws got me to wondering if that's the best solution. My guideline has been to build Big Blue in a way that my offspring can maintain it easily later. And that suggests not grafting a Bullnose sender onto the side of a later pump. Instead, building the interface to make the later unit work perfectly in a Bullnose. However, there's one minor glitch with that - the float arm on the rear sending unit will have to be modified anyway if the reading is to be accurate. That's because I going with a 38 gallon rear tank and there's no FDM for that. But I realized last night that I could buy the FDM for a Bronco, which has a 33 gallon tank, and the sending unit's reading might be close enough to be acceptable. But, since the Bronco only has one tank does its FDM have the check valves? More thinking to be done.

There were two. E6TZ-A was the standard, and E7TZ-A was used on 300 sixes when there was carpet or mat interference.

Ok, now I'm getting somewhere. I Googled "Spectra Premium SP155" and got a hit at Amazon. And they say it fits a 1995 F350 w/a 460. But the picture shows it to just be the fuel pump itself. However, at the bottom of the page they show a Spectra Premium SP2007H Fuel Hanger Assembly with Pump and Sending Unit for Ford F Series. And that is the full Fuel Delivery Module. And I can see that the FDM is made up of the SP155 fuel pump, a sending unit, and a filter in addition to the plumbing. So, now I can figure out what I want to replace in my FDM's. Or, just replace the whole thing.

Bill - Thanks, but which Spectra? There are two Spectra Premium fuel pumps. There are four Spectra Premium fuel pump and housing assemblies. And there are four Spectra Premium fuel tank and pump assemblies. Do you have a part number? I'm really lost as I can't figure out Rock Auto's terminology. I wonder if I go to Spectra's site?

I think you are missing the point. You can do whatever you want with the cable making it longer or shorter, but nothing you do will change how much the end of it moves when you floor the pedal. In the drawing below you see two red lines, the bottom of which is the pivot point for the pedal and the top being where the cable attaches. As long as that distance doesn't change the cable will always move exactly the same distance on the end, regardless of whether the cable is 1" long or 1 mile long. The only way to change how much the end of the cable moves is to change the distance between the two red lines. And since you can't change the pivot point the only thing you can do is to raise the attachment point for the cable. Ford had a special cable for the 300 six: I think it raised the attachment point for the cable. So, you could find one of those or add an extension to the pedal you have. Or, just lower the ball on the throttle.

As many of you know, I'm going with the later fuel system on Big Blue, which will include the "fuel delivery modules". But I'm having a hard time finding the FDM's themselves. Do you replace then completely or do you replace parts of them? Looking at the Rock Auto site for a 1995 F350 w/a 460 I find: Fuel pumps at $25 to $156 Fuel pumps & housing assembly from $29 to $460 Fuel sending units from $114 to $147 Fuel tank & pump assembly from $168 to $239 This is really confusing to me. What am I missing? It seems that you have to replace pieces, but that if you buy a new tank and pump you'll get the whole shooting match. Yes?

If it doesn't run well it isn't worth the money nor the effort. I hope the meeting tomorrow works out for you.

Yes. I played a bunch with throttle cables last week and I found that to run an Eddy with the ball in that hole you have to have it adjusted very close. No slack. It would be better with the ball in a lower hole, but there isn't one.

Bill is exactly right. As I posted earlier, the dimensions I measured are: With the Edelbrock's 1.30" from center of the throttle shaft to the center of the ball the Ford linkage will JUST get full throttle if you have essentially no slack at idle. If there is any slack you won't get full throttl. And if the ball is any higher at all it is physically impossible to get full throttle with stock linkage.

Good luck! And, don't hit any tourists, slow or fast.

That would be nice. Unfortunately my cabinet is literally jammed between a wall and the back of the powder coating booth. So there's no way to add one of those on. But, it would be nice.

So, you think the Superduty line will fit that master cylinder? But, I don't have another o-ring. Or, was there one in the box that I missed? Also, will that line fit my slave? The pin that holds the line in the slave is so rusted it doesn't want to come. Maybe I should just use that slave? Or, was that your intent? As for what else I did, I said I wasn't going to install the exhaust until after the fuel system went in, but I realized that exhaust runs down the passenger's side and the fuel system down the driver's side. So I put the exhaust in place. Fortunately it fits ok, as you can see here. I don't have the gaskets in, nor do I have the supports in place. But it is progress!

Aren't you thankful you are not using this clutch M/C! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-LuK-LMC370-fits-00-11-Ford-Focus/124270144096?epid=74943877&hash=item1cef13ea60:g:fu0AAOSw6WJeQo9v WOW! But, the shipping is free. So, the clutch master cylinder is worth more than the car? Surely you can't tell me there's an 00-11 Ford Focus worth that much.

Janey thinks I need to sell it to someone. I tried to 'splain that others have done this, although typically w/a hand pump sprayer. The advantage of mine is that it stays pressurized for a long, long time so you don't have to worry about pumping it up. Yes, if Ron wanted to make them, go for it. Now, if I just had a good lid for the clutch master.

I missed the calibration code. Here's the info:

The forum does no rotating. It doesn't do what most other things do, which is to read the camera orientation in the metadata and re-orient the pic based on that. It just flat ignores that info. So you have to properly orient the pic externally. For instance, I copied your pic into Photoshop, turned it 90 degrees right, and saved it. Then uploaded it and here 'tis:

Early report today. First, while we were out I stopped at the muffler shop. They will do a custom install using Magnaflows when I get to that, so that's decided. And, the brakes are D.O.N.E. I got a piece of 3/16" ID clear tube today and checked the rear brakes - no bubbles with hose that fit the bleeder screws. And I rechecked the front. Got a few bubbles out but then the bubbles were gone. Meanwhile I got an email from Detroit Muscle Technologies and the HVAC gaskets are on their way - although not expected until next Wednesday. Last, I did check the clutch master cylinder and there is a roll pin, as shown on the left. So, Jim, are you saying that the fitting on the right for the slave you sent will fit in there? And that the braided steel line is the way to go?

Ok, 'tis done. The kit, as shown below, works well. The clear hose on the left is 3/16" ID and fits the smaller bleeder screws that are on the back of Big Blue. The piece of clear hose that's on the orange hose on the right is 1/4" ID and fits the larger bleeders on the '95 calipers on the front of Big Blue. And the hose in the middle snaps into the regulator, shown, and screws onto the master cylinder.

"85/" means 1985 through the end of the catalog, which is 1989. Don't know what changed between '84 and '85, but.....

Good followup. Thanks. And, glad you got it together.

Life has a habit of taking precedence over trucks, and family certain comes higher on the list than trucks. No prob. As for helping, happy to do so. Hope the engine turns out to be everything you want. 👍

Wow! Beautiful! Tell us more about it and you? Welcome. Glad you joined. Where’s home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member’s Map in the menu) and we’d be happy to add you if we had a city or postal code.