Gary Lewis

The only Ford vehicle in the 1980s that got a dual snorkel air cleaner was the 1982 - 1985 Ford Mustang GT. The 1982 version was unique in that it was smaller because it was designed to fit over the Motorcraft 2150 the Mustang GT used that one year. The 2V carburetor was replaced by a 4V Carburetor in 1983, so they used a larger air cleaner that was the same size as the one used on the 460 engine. The 1983 - 1985 Mustang GT dual snorkel air cleaner used the same size [metal] base as the 460 and 351 H.O. engines, but the air cleaners on those engines only had one snorkel. Mustang GTs with a manual transmission used one version of the dual snorkel air cleaner, while the 1984 and 1985 models with an AOD transmission used another. Why? Because the manual transmission model used a Motorcraft 4180 carbureted setup, while the automatic (AOD) model used throttle-body fuel injection. The air cleaner locating prongs are spaced further apart to fit over the throttle body. The sticker on the air cleaner lid reads "5.0 Liter E.F.I. H.O." I knew Rick was the right one to answer that. Far better than I could have done. I believe I have one of the Mustang dual snorkel cleaners. It may wind up on Big Blue as at first blush it is close to fitting.

If you think it "runs fine" now, just wait until you take the EEC-III system out of the equation. I think we mentioned it, but right now it has its knickers in a twist due to the many things you've removed, and it has the ignition advance locked out. I once bought an '82 F150 that sat on a car lot for years as it ran really poorly. Turned out that someone had removed the feedback carb and threw it away, literally, installing instead a non-feedback 2150. The ECU had the timing locked to base and it was a DOG!

Bill's filter should be just aft of the area in that pic. I wonder how the filter attaches to it? A clip? A factory bracket would be good, but my local salvage doesn't have the trucks where you can go under them. I need to call tomorrow about my refund on that filler neck, so will ask if they have one as they may have the bed off some of them and can get to it. And Bill's braided lines appear to have a covering over them. That would be needed as that braid would saw on the aluminum tranny since there doesn't appear to be anything keeping them from moving. No tie downs, nada. So as you hit bumps and/or the engine torques over they are going to move relative to the tranny. On the steel lines I mentioned at that bracket, I have a pair of stainless lines with the ends set up for those fuel line connectors. In fact, they had a label wrapped around them with a big warning saying FUEL LINES. But they are cut on the other ends and I don't have a clue where they came from nor where they would go. I put the hoses in BB yesterday and they fit pretty well - without those lines. I'll take pics later today, but what I have is a set of lines coming from the rear tank and then having the wyes for supply, return, & vent beside the mid-ship tank. One set of lines from the wyes go back to connect to that tank, but the other set goes forward. The supply has a connector to go to the fuel filter and the return has a male connector to take a female. From there nylon lines go forward to the bracket in Bill's pic and then up the back of the bell housing. At the top of the bell housing there are female connectors, and from there steel lines go up to the fuel rail with coiled-spring connectors to it.

Bill - Huck's lines don't have the flex in them. They are the standard nylon lines but covered with high pressure rubber fuel hose. But, your pic helps a lot. First, it shows how that support goes in, and since BB's frame doesn't have the holes I wasn't sure where it goes. Also, you seem to have to steel lines going to that bracket. Yes? Huck's lines are still the plastic. If yours are steel, where does that start?

If the lines will come off the wyes then I can reuse them. And I've been actively searching for replacements and haven't found them, so will try removing the lines from the wyes this afternoon. Good idea on the tool. Bill - you up for that? The actual fuel filter, which looks like the one below. I'd wondered about the galvanic chart, but need some way to support the filter. Was thinking that splitting pieces of a rubber hose and slipping them over the ends of the channel would suffice. And, could do one stainless hose clamp. But I have some very heavy 1/4" zip ties and was thinking of using two.

Yikes! That's 'spensive!!!! Clean truck, and I'm sure it drives nicely, but it ain't pretty.

Don't forget the shag carpet!

Wow! Take in a movie and sleep a bit and come back to find a lot of help. Thanks, guys! So let me try to summarize what I've read, but I have to keep in mind that this won't be the last fuel line rodeo I do as I plan to do the same thing to Dad's truck. First, buy new plastic line, don't try to repair the existing. That's a good suggestion as the existing lines are not only old but have lots of pre-formed bends in them that aren't really right. And they have some nicks that I was going to cut out and splice. IIRC, a 25' roll of 3/8" line, and the later trucks use that for both supply and return, is something like $36. I'll have to see if that is enough and, if not, see if a larger spool exists. Also, if I am doing that I'll need to find the correct wyes for the lines, and I've not run across them yet. So if any of you know.... Next, Bill says to buy the tool. I see it for $87, and while that sounds a bit pricey when heat appears to work, if I'm doing 8 fittings on Big Blue and another 8 on Dad's truck that is only $5/connection. Bill says he got his in the kit, and while I see a few of those they all have a wide assortment of connectors that I don't need. Basically all I need are the straight 5/16" and 3/8" ones. As for the vents, perhaps the best thing to do would be to connect them to the existing vent line on BB that runs up under the battery. I don't intend to run the charcoal canisters, but if I decided to I could put them on. And apparently I'll need a vapor management valve, but it really wouldn't have to be connected to the canisters? Just be there for the ECU to "see"? Last, I'd forgotten to mention that I don't have a bracket for the fuel filter. Might anyone have an extra? It bolts to the frame and appears to hold the filter body. If not, perhaps a piece of that aluminum channel with a couple of slots for zip ties to pass through would suffice?

You are now on the map. I didn't know where Atlanta, TX is but it turns out we drove right through there a bit less than a year ago. Left home, Skiatook, and went down the eastern part of OK into TX.

Cute! Goes well with the truck. But if the transom is bad I'd seriously consider cutting my losses. Jim has more experience than I, but stringers and a floor are as far as I'd go. In my case I cut the floor out and found the stringers starting to rot from the water that had been in there. But the transom was good. I media blasted the stringers and the inside of the hull and then used the stringers as forms and laid fiberglass over them and onto the hull. Once done I laid a floor on top, bonded it to the hull at the edges, drilled a number of holes and poured urethane foam in. Worked perfectly.

With all the glass and plastic, the answer is "NO" on the "too dead" question. "Too bright" is an emphatic "YES!".

Haha...I forgot about spelling. There's a whole bunch of spelling we've taken from the Brits as well. In Canada the defaults are colour, harbour, litre, centre, etc. I think we also spell grey instead of gray (US?). An interesting spelling (and pronunciation) that did not carry over from the Brits is aluminium. In Canada we use the American version aluminum. It's all kinda weird Gary...lol, but we're used to our hybrid ways up here. And you probably can, therefore, easily spot the outsiders. I know in England I was easily spotted. Anyway, it is interesting. Didn't realize that there were that many differences. Vive la différence!

Gary, yes, exactly that...sort of a blend. We've hung on to some British things...we do say Zed and instead of Zee like you guys do, and some Canadians use the British term for vacation and call it going on their holidays. I call it vacation, but whatever...I can understand both...lol. I know there are others that I can't think of at the moment, but the Zee and Zed would be a very common one. Interesting. What about spelling? I like to say I'm bi-lingual and know both Brit and American English. But I'm really just very confused. If you ask me to say "A to Z" it will always come out "A to Zed" as that's the way I learned it in England, and since we rarely use that phrase it'll always to the English version. And if I have to spell something I have to think about whether to use "s" or "zed".

I've never had them side by side to compare, but I do like them both. I actually had fish and chips again tonight, but from a little take out shop just down the road from me. That's it, I've had my fill until 2021. You say "take out" and not "take away" like the Brits? You guys seem to have a blend of US and Brit English, even though you are part of the Commonwealth.

Bill, those will work but they are for a C6. I don't know what difference that makes, but E5TZ 9510-P (marked E5TE-PA) is for the same '85 truck but with a manual tranny.

Bill - I'm glad you posted that pic as I misunderstood. I thought you were saying that the roll-over valve had only one outlet and it went to the crossmember and the little button fitting. Instead, you are saying that one side goes to the crossmember and the other side goes to a larger hose and presumably tees with the hose from the rear tank and then goes to the front, probably to the vapor management valve - VMV. The roll-over valves I ordered are single-sided with the small fitting, like Big Blue or Darth used to have. And my plan was to just take that to the crossmember with a fuel filter. I know I'll have fumes if I park in the garage, but I don't have the VMV and don't want to run one. Is that a problem? Also, I need your, as well as everyone's, input on repair of the fuel lines. I got the lines cleaned up today and examined them. Turns out 3 of the 4 connectors going to the fuel delivery assemblies are turned 90 degrees from the way they should be. And, since at least 2 others are bad or missing, I'm thinking I'll replace all of them with something like these Dorman 800-117's, although those are 3/8" and I'll also need some 5/16". And I'll need some splices as there are some spots I want to replace.. So, the questions: 1. If I remember correctly I can just heat the tubing and push it over the barbs on the connectors? Right? 2. Is there a kit that has all straight connectors and repair barbs? Or, since I need four 3/8" and two 5/16" connectors, am I better off just buying the pieces separately?

Gary, Here in NS it's usually Haddock. Water is too warm here for Cod. Newfoundland however...all Cod, always. I don't think they'll even eat Haddock...lol. I've had all kinds of fish in my fish & chips, but cod is by far the best. Haddock doesn't come close.

Calibration code 1-63T-R13 matches to Calibration Parts List No. 338, as shown below. And that setup uses either carb E2TZ 9510-CDB or E2TZ 9510-CDD, both of which are VV's. But, as you can see, that is for a 1983 F150 with a 351W with a manual transmission and not the high altitude option. (It was also used on an 83 F250 under 8500 GVW and manual tranny and not high altitude, as well as a Bronco with manual and non-high altitude - all with a 351W.) Unfortunately, all three of the calibration codes listed use the VV carb. So I struck out for you. I'd suggest you buy a 2100. As for the choke, you can swap a choke housing from any 2100 or 2150 onto any other. In fact, I think you can put a Holley choke housing on. So finding an electric choke should not be a problem.

Luckily you replied to your own post which has some info about your truck. Otherwise I wouldn't have known - and I suggest you fix that with a signature to tell us what it is so we don't have to guess. How-to is in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. Anyway, it isn't legal to remove any emissions equipment. But, it is done all day, every day. So, I cannot recommend that you do it. Let's just say that Big Blue has no AIR pump and he has headers. I'm running L&L headers. I like them because they have a 1/2" thick flange, which helps a bunch to keep them sealed, and that's one of the many complaints people have about headers. Another is that they hang down and can be seen, but mine don't. Having said that, mine did hit the passenger's side frame and required cutting 1/2" strip off the bottom flange of the frame for several inches, which you can see here.

Do you know German slang? Jein. That's "ja" and "nein", for yes and no, run together. You can email me, or anyone else on the forum, by clicking the person's "handle" and then clicking "Send email". So send me the email w/an address and I'll send it. No problem. No money needed. So, yes and no.

I have the one Scott linked to, and it works nicely. Handy for testing circuits.

I can probably find a part number, but this one's got your name on it if you don't find yours. Here the two pieces are together, albeit blurry: And here they are apart: And, for the record, here's the PN: EOTZ 13B757-A This one is marked 13B757-AB

I can probably find a part number, but this one's got your name on it if you don't find yours. Here the two pieces are together, albeit blurry: And here they are apart:

I'll see what I can find.....

The relay kit came in, and there's precious little info on it, just like you said. May just have to go looking for the TSB. Any guess on dates?