Gary Lewis

Jim - You have a good point that I missed. The alternator Rick linked to is a 1G and John's is a 2G. So, while that 100 amp alternator would work for Chad, it wouldn't work for John w/o some wiring changes.

I do think part of your harness will plug in, but not all of it. The downfall of the 2G is the way the power lead connects, and that part will certainly not connect. In addition, you have to do something about your ammeter and its associated shunt. That's explained to some extent on page, but basically the situation is that I believe the shunt is capable of handling a max of 70 amps. So if you go with an alternator that puts out more than that you should change the wiring and not run the output through the shunt. One option is to just move the output to the starter relay's battery terminal. But in that case your ammeter will only show discharge as you turn on more and more accessories. Another option is to have your ammeter turned into a voltmeter. That's the way I've gone on Big Blue.

Why does he need a 3G alternator if he has a carburetor? I have a 1G on Lucille and it works just fine. Am I missing something? If you need more amps, here is another option: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-85-FORD-MUSTANG-100-AMP-HIGH-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR/264300553258?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 He said "I wouldn't mind having a little extra current to work with but I'm not looking to do anything radical." The 3G is the cheapest way to do that as he can get one delivered for $80 delivered where the one you listed is $145 delivered. And at 100 and 130 amps, both require some change regarding the ammeter & shunt. So there's no difference there.

I'll measure and post dimensions tomorrow. The smaller skid plate doesn't fit perfectly and wouldn't completely shield the longer tank, so I want the longer skid plate. But the ones I have for both tanks are off Dad's truck. I've never been sure that I want to install them on his truck as they add a lot of weight and I think it looks cleaner w/o them. So I think I'm ok using them on Big Blue - at least for now. But, if down the road I find another set I'll grab them.

Jim - I'll check tomorrow. I've come into the house for a cuppa and cookie now. But you want to know what the voltage and current are on the stop light LED. Right? I'll have to rig up a way to push the brake pedal for that as my digital voltmeter won't react fast enough in turn signal mode. Scott - No problem, happy to help. So apparently the speed control depends on the resistance of the bulbs being there. Interesting. And, if you figure out why I have .66v and you have 3.8v in Test three, please also figure out why my dash lights flash and, if the door is open, the headlight buzzer sounds - only on right turns, not left.

Ok, let's see if I got what you need. First, there's no continuity between the LG & W/P terminals on my spare amplifier. Then, I ran four tests: W/P LG 1. 11.9v .02v LED on left & 1157 on right. LG: Left turn = .02v Right turn = 7.8v 2. 11.9v .0 1157's on both left & right LG: Left turn = .05 - .23v Right turn = .09 - .25v 3. 11.9v .66v LED's on both left & right LG: Left turn = 7.8v Right turn = 7.8v & dash lights flash! 4. 11.9v 11.6v No bulbs or LED's, trying to simulate pulling the connector - I hope.

Yes, the wire hangers are classic! Maybe I should post that pic and win the Ugliest Truck?

Yes, it does look like had his way with this part of the truck as well. But, I'm getting there. Having found that I have the proper front filler neck I just need the rear filler neck and two hoses. Jeannie at the salvage called and said they have the filler neck, so I paid them $25 and I'll pick it up in a few days. And I've ordered from Amazon a Spectra Premium FNH122 Fuel Tank Filler Neck Hose for the front tank and a Spectra Premium FNH090 Fuel Tank Filler Neck Hose for the rear tank. They'll both be here Monday. Then I tried to install the front/mid-ship skid plate off Huck. I'll go, but I'd need to move one hanger and drill three new holes. And even then it is short - apparently that top tank in the pic above is a 16 gallon instead of the 19 gallon one that was on Big Blue and that I have on order. And that skid plate doesn't protect the whole of the tank. So out came another one I have and it bolted on perfectly. And while I was at it I spotted the rear tank skid plates. Now all I need are tanks! And they are due tomorrow. Oh yes, once I get it all together and the lines run I'll need the pressure regulator from Holley. And in spite of it saying "Estimated shipping date: 07/30/2020" when I ordered they now say "Estimated shipping date: 08/12/2020."

Well, Scott, it turned out to be a big deal. The fuel tank filler neck that was on Big Blue says "FNF-027" on the side. And if you look that up it is for the later model tank/truck, as shown here on Amazon. So, I already have one of the two filler necks that I need. So I called the salvage and explained that to them so they are only looking for the rear filler neck. But, I learned that they always cut the hoses, so I will have to replace them. Which brings me to why BB was horribly slow to fill. In the pic below you see the filler neck that was on BB laying on the Bricknose tank on top, and the correct Bullnose filler neck laying on Big Blue's side tank on the bottom. Notice the size of the hoses protruding from the necks, with the Bricknose neck having a much bigger hose as that's where the gas goes and the air comes up around it. But the Bullnose hose is smaller and corrugated, and it is what the air goes through on a Bullnose. Then if you look at the inlet on the tanks you'll see the problem. The Bullnose tank has a fitting into which the smaller vent hose is supposed to go. But that fitting is too big for the Bricknose hose to fit over, and too small for it to go into. I'm not sure how they had it in there, but however they had it there was some interference with fuel coming in and the air coming out, and that must be what caused it to be terribly slow to fill.

It should be a 2G from all I've read, but it would be interesting to know.

Ahhh I didn't see your post cause it was on page 6. I'll add this to the list when I'm talking to the new shop. That way I can get the 35-283-3 cam kit on order. I'm not sure I'd order the cam before talking to the engine builder. He might have suggestions that you want to consider. On the pistons, you'll find hyper eutectic and forged. You don't need forged. Go for the hyper eutectic ones. So if you go to the engine builder and tell him what your plans are for using the truck and then say you think you want this cam and about 9 - 9.5:1 compression you give him a chance to provide suggestions. In the long run, having him bought in is good.

No, I didn't notice anything. But it is still there, so I can check in a bit.....

Jacob, the MSD box that you speak of, is it plug and play so to speak? The module that I currently have is not the OEM unit. A couple years after buying my truck, that unit went out and I replaced it with a box store unit which, surprisingly has been very good to me. However, I do worry that it will crap out on me and strand me one day. John - The factory box is pretty solid if you use a factory coil. But some of us carry a spare nonetheless. However, there are at least two versions of the factory box - with and without start retard. And the adverts don't tell you whether they do or don't. So you kinda want to stick with those brands that are known to have the retard.

Just tell why you bought it, to make garbage runs, and what you wound up doing: firewall for the A/C, which was a project in and of itself; dual tanks as the dump is a looooooong way away and/or the MPG is poor; etc.

Interesting! Now I'll need to swap out some bulbs as I have LED's on one side and incandescent on the other. So, I wonder......

Yes! Big Blue was AWFUL to fill. You could NOT run the pump on auto as it would trip off even on the lowest setting. Dad's truck wasn't that way, so I often wondered what people were griping about. Then I got BB and found out.

Yes, I believe that will be a good fit. However, you'll have to change out the pulley, which is no big deal.

Yes, I agree - use those heads. But like Jim said, even better pistons can get you whatever compression you want. And you have to have new pistons, so get some that put you in the 9+ range. There's a balance between compression and cam. Too little compression and too much cam is a bad combo. But as you go up in compression you can use more and more cam. In fact, there's a difference between static and dynamic compression ratio, with static being what is calculated using bore, stroke, and piston & head recesses. But dynamic is closer to actual as the cam leaves the valves open during part of the compression stroke and you lose some compression. And the longer the duration of the cam the more is lost. So some people go up closer to 10:1 and dial in more cam to kill some of it.

Thanks, Jim. I called the salvage. Jeannie remembered me and said they think they have what I need but will have to look and will call back. So I may be headed over later today.

Interesting! Yes, when I go to the DB site I find a 160 amp for $211. But when I search for "DB Electrical F4PZ-10346-B" I find that Amazon has it for $79.95, and in the OEM Part # list I find F4PZ-10346-B included. I think I'd call DB and see what gives. Or, just order it from Amazon.

Gary, my parents didn't raise a quitter, they raised a procrastinator!!...lol. I'll be submitting mine this week sometime. I'm on vacation so I should have time once I'm done chopping up an old Bullnose. Yes, you'll have plenty of time. Just don't forget.

I think you want to do the 3G upgrade: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion in the menu.

OEM [rear/used] https://www.ebay.com/itm/92-94-95-96-FORD-F150-F250-97-F350-REAR-FUEL-TANK-FILLER-NECK-ASSEMBLY-OEM-GAS/223638251196?hash=item3411e0e6bc:g:14sAAOSw5PJdYuWL After market [midship]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Filler-Neck-For-1990-1996-Ford-F350-1995-1993-1991-1992-1994-G358HN/173710182411?hash=item2871ef080b:g:cUgAAOSwXMNdP3Az Thank you, David! That looks to be what I'm looking for. That salvage that has supposedly been going out of business might have some. I think I'll call them and see if they are still open and if they have some trucks with those fillers.

Jim - You are saying I'll need #9034? I hadn't thought about that.

Well I cant say I am the only one as I had seen it done on 1 or 2 others. Think 1 of our members had a rear tank on his black flare side before he sold it? Yes dual tanks as the front / mid / side 16 gallon tank is just not large enough so added the 19 gallon rear tank. All the parts, other than the door and some of the filler, came from a dual tank style side parts truck even the dash & wiring. The factory tank switch is to the right of the HVAC controls. Dave ---- Ok, so it may be 1 of 3. Now, when are you going to enter that rare truck in the show?