Gary Lewis

Ok, on another tack, how badly do I need the check valves that were added to the FDM's as part of a TSB? Wouldn't the later FDM's be upgraded to include the check valve? I got off one of the two that were on Huck's FDM's, but the other doesn't really want to come and the little catches don't look easy to release. So, do I really need them? And, here's what they look like - rusty:

Let's see if this answers your question. The part I have is, as you'll see on the tag, an E6TZ 9725-A. And the measurements are 7" and 7 1/8". Method 1 wide: Method 1 close: Method 2 wide: Method 2 close:

Yep, it was 65 here in Okiehoma this morn. Sitting on the back porch sipping coffee was chilly, but good! Going to take advantage of the cool weather and mow this afternoon.

I get 63" on this one following all the contours, and it is 12 1/2" wide. So it is probably the same one as yours. It looks like the one in this illustration:

The starting battery is a 31M-PC2150 with CCA's of 1150, and the auxiliary battery is a 34M-PC1500 with CCA's of 850.

That really IS a nice, clean truck. Well worth the money.

Nice truck, but the only think I really like are the tires and wheels. Still, it is clean and shiny.

Click on his handle anywhere he's posted and then click on Send Email To. But, he posted his email address a day or so ago as "wavose at g mail dot com".

I don't remember what I have. I'll look in a bit.

Nice truck for $2300 - asking price.

Very few times would the regulator call for full output. But when you start up with a really discharged battery it would happen. And even if you use one of the delay regulators, after a few seconds it'll kick in and go full tilt. Then, since a single v-belt can only transmit something like 90 amps worth of power, you'll have a screaming belt. I have a dual-belt setup planned for Dad's truck, and have a poly-groove belt on Big Blue. But a single belt isn't going to give full output on a 130 amp alternator. So a small case 3G rated at 95 amps might be a better choice - if you can find it.

I'll measure in the morning and post pics of how I measure awa the measurements themselves.

You missed it. Here's what I have:

From the top in front, down to the horizontal run, and to the back? I'll measure the one on Big Blue and the short one for the 16 gallon tank in the morning. Thanks.

Let me bring some real data to the discussion. Here are some specifics from our page here: Documentation/Alternators, and it comes from Jim's test results of his $70-delivered DB Electrical 3G and my calc's from information in the Ford specs: These are test results for a standard 130A 3G alternator purchased from DB Electric. And the stated output is: 106A @ 1600 alternator RPM 134A @ 2500 alternator RPM 160A @ 6000 alternator RPM Note that the RPM shown is alternator RPM, but Ford's typical alternator/engine pulley ratio is: 300 Six: 2.52:1 for 60A alternators and 2.40:1 for 70A 302 & 351W: 3.00:1 for 60A and 2.86:1 for 70A 460: 3.00:1 for 60A and 2.86:1 for 70A IDI: 2.18:1 for 60A and 70A​ ​ To put this in perspective, that alternator will put out 106A at the following engine RPM assuming stock pulleys: 300 Six: 635 to 667 RPM 302 & 351W: 533 to 559 RPM 460: 533 to 559 RPM IDI: 734 RPM In other words, you'll have over 100 amps of output at idle.

I have a NOS pedal laying out to match measurements with you. Just tell me how you've measured so I can do it the same.

You are now on the map.

So the slop is gone? The rest of the t-case can go together?

I wonder if Huck was a short-bed? He seems to have had a 16 gallon tank, but when I got him there was nothing behind the cab so I didn't know. And I didn't decode the VIN nor the certification label.

Gary, That reminds me. Can you make new fuel lines for the factory EFI systems? This '95 has a rear tank only (which seems kind of odd to me), but they did come that way apparently, and I'd be more content to have a factory side tank in the stock location. Yes, I think you can make fuel lines, but ask me again in a week or two. I say that because I'm going to put Huck's lines in Big Blue, I hope, and know they'll take some mending. The line appears to be something like Nylon, and there are repair kits for it. But by heating it I found it is pretty easy to work. We shall see. But, back to fish and chips. I got hooked on that while in England, and the best I ever had was in Rye, where they cook what they just caught. GOOD!

Looks like it has the rubber isolator:

Gary. You are right on all counts. And the whole point is to keep me busy...more so in the winter, but just busy in general. You know, idle hands and all that...because god knows that the last thing I really need is another truck...lol. Yes...so there are a few things that drive my plans, but the Bullnose clip swap first and foremost is to put the Bullnose parts somewhere. I have them stored in the warehouse at my work, and I can't leave them there forever. It would be easier (in my own mind) to install the Bullnose parts and get rid of the '95 front clip asap. Same thing with the '95 Styleside bed. I may just cut the bed up and re-purpose the Styleside floor in the new Flareside bed. Scrap the quarters, sell the tailgate, and save the floor. Maybe. I'm intrigued by the 300/6, and would love to try it, but getting it in the truck and ready to run is going to have to be a longer term project, and maybe the roller 5.0L will be too nice to take out...I don't know. I do like my 5.0, and the 5spd with the 3.55 gears might make it a much nicer truck to drive. Right now I want to keep it mobile, so I'm not ditching the EFI 5.0L until I'm ready to carb/DSII swap it, or to install the 300/6. Maybe once I learn more about how the 5.0L EFI is wired, maybe I can figure out how to run it in the Bullnose cab. Again, maybe...lol. Several have run the EEC-V EFI in the Bullnose cab, so I'm sure the EEC-IV should be about the same. You may like the EFI well enough to keep it.

So the announcement is that I made a deal on a 1995 F150 swb 4x4 that will be 'blended' together with the 1980 Flareside project.. This thing is a bit rough on it's own, and it's been sitting for a while, but it has good bones which is what I needed...and it's running/driving...so that's a big advantage. A couple key things made me jump on this truck. It is a factory swb 4x4 with 5.0L / 5spd and 3.55 geared diffs. Has quad shock front end and both front and rear factory swaybars and a trailer hitch. I spent 20 minutes crawling under the thing checking out the frame and all crossmembers, and while it is rusty (as they all are around here) it appears to be solid. The cab is not bad, but the front fenders and quarter panels are trash. I should have it by Friday, if not early next week. I didn't look all that close under the hood...but the good news about the 5.0L in 1995 is that is definitely a roller engine, and I believe came with the HO/351 firing order? That bad is that I believe the 5.0L was still speed density EFI in 1995 when it was mated to a 5spd (And MAF/Sefi when mated to the auto?, and they were all MAF in 1996?). So my tentative plan is to Bullnose swap the front clip since I now have everything to do it, and swap the 1995 Styleside bed for the 1980 Flareside bed. This won't be happening overnight of course...this might take me 2 years...lol, but this is the plan as of today (ask me again tomorrow). Later on, I would swap the Bullnose cab on there and the 300/6 DSII, etc. I know the front end of the frame on the '95 is different, but it's very easy to deal with. But back to the 1980 Bullnose... I finished stripping all of the good stuff off the old frame this morning, including the SBF engine perches (people do seem to look for those from time to time) and the TTB beams, rear leaf springs, etc. I cut the frame in two and hauled it down the hill for scrap and made a whopping $26 bucks! That 40 year old steel will be repurposed as something useful I'm sure. I already started cleaning up what good parts I do have, and scrubbed 40 years of grime and overspray off both chrome bumpers (SOS pads). After the dry out again I'll treat the backside with Ospho and I'll power ball some polish on them and see if they shine up a little better. Anyway, that's where I am as of today (We are on vacation/"staycation" this week). Cool! But why wait to swap the cab? And, why the 300 six if you have a roller 5.0? I'm guessing the 300 is because you already have a 5.0. And I'm going to also guess that the reason for the delay for the cab is that while you have the EFI on the 5.0 you need the wiring in the cab. Right? Anyway, congrat's! Great project. That's going to keep you busy.

Welcome! Glad you joined. I'd sure like to see how the Bullnose body goes on the '04 frame, so I hope you'll start a thread in the main section to document that project. And, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd add you if we had a city or zip. As for the frame dimensions, see if the ones here don't answer your questions: Documentation/Literature/1985 Literature/Body Builder's Book.

Glad you found one. But there's no need to leave. We'd sure like to see your project and how the manifold works out.