Gary Lewis

It is for sure supposed to be plugged.

According to the MPC that is for the little Bronco II, only: 84/ B - - P/S However, it is my understanding that the boxes interchange, but just aren't exactly "right". I don't know what the differences are.

1986 & on F250's and 350's with the 351W: 86/on E—F250/350 8 351W E6TZ 9K319-A #Black

This is for the little Ranger & B-II's, only.

For 1982 and later F-Series and Broncos. 82/on F-U100/350

That's for the IDI diesel.

Congrat's! Now if it quits as you hook the light up you'll know you did something wrong.

Here's what they fit:

Thanks, Bill. I'll keep that in mind if I have to pull that one off.

I'm not comfortable assuming that he's using jumpers cables. I hope so, but I'm just not comfortable assuming he is.

That's the guy! For one, I owned a Triumph 650 twin with his electrical system. Another, I lived in England for a while. And, I've done enough reading and talking, so understand a bit about Lucas. But, I didn't realize that ZF owns Lucas Industries. Perhaps the Germans have turned things around?

Yes, or too high. My plan is to have a warning light in the "eyebrow" of the instruments that tells the driver something is wrong, and then readouts elsewhere that tell him/her what the problem is. So the Arduino is planned to be watching: Coolant temp, with over-temp warning Oil pressure, with low pressure warning Starting battery voltage, with warning for both under and over voltage Aux battery voltage, ditto

Yuppers. And an internal regulator that the 1G doesn't have.

A 351W doesn't have a ground cable to the starter. Right? So, if the starter is just laying on the radiator support......

You are familiar with The Prince Of Darkness? I don't have a recommendation for anyone in Atlanta, so you are probably right to start another thread to get input. As for the alternator being able to always provide enough output at idle to keep the battery voltage at 14.4, the 1G can't if you are running the blower on high and the headlights at the same time. In fact, I'm not sure it can w/o the blower motor on High as all the ones I've been around have had the headlights dim at idle, which means the voltage dropped. And I don't think the 2G can as the info I've seen on its output shows it isn't much better than a 1G. The real revolution came with the 3G. It has more output at idle than the others have at full tilt.

Also, how's the starter grounded when on the core support?

First, you got lucky! If that starter had gotten juice it would have jumped off that core support in a heart beat. Unless by "sitting" you mean you have it lashed down. Ever heard of "equal but opposite reaction"? When the armature turns one way the housing will turn the other at the same speed unless it is well and truly contained. I've seen guys lay the starter on the ground, put a 2x4 on top of it, and roll the vehicle onto the 2x4 to ensure the starter doesn't go anywhere when testing. Anyway, assuming your starter and relay are good you either have a bad cable or a bad connection. A way to check is via the voltage drop approach: Documentation/Electrical/Voltage Drop Testing. Put the positive lead of your DVM on the battery's positive post and the negative lead on the relay's battery post and turn the key. You may see the voltage go to battery voltage, which means either the cable is bad or the connections are bad. Similarly, test across the relay by going battery to relay's starter terminal. Keep going until you find the problem.

Only the vans had the Saginaw, and if I understand correctly they didn't get the C-II. The pickups were exactly the opposite. So if you are wanting to go with a Saginaw you'll have to have the van brackets as Sag's don't bolt to C-II brackets nor vice versa. As for the belts on a 3G, I think the only time you'd see/hear slippage is if you were to kill the battery and somehow get the truck started - like jumpering or bump-starting it. With a dead battery there would be a lot of current and a single v-belt might slip.

If that is the case then FDM would be the way to go I am not up on this new fancy stuff on out old truck Dave ---- Very sure that's the case as that's what I'm doing on BB - after a LOT of research. Have a new 18 gallon rear tank/FDM coming in today for like $135 delivered. And the 19 gallon side tank is coming in today as well, but the FDM is hung up at the Post Office. But, I forgot to say that the Bricknose sending units are upside down and backwards to ours so will read incorrectly on a Bullnose w/o my upcoming Arduino project. But the Arduino should come in for well less than $100 and also read lots of other things. For instance, it will be able to read the coolant temp and oil pressure and sound an alarm/light a light if they go low.

No problemo.

80/on F-U100/350 — w/factory installed speed control 6&8 All E2TZ 9C962-B #E0TA 9C962-AC.AD-E1TA 9C962-AAE2TA 9C962-DA

Only used on the 171 ci engine in the little Ranger and Bronco II.

That is why I said unless he stayed EFI as it would be harder to do the dual tanks mod. If he went with the 300 I don't think he would be able to run the FDM as the psi would be to high for the carb. I am sure Cory has a good plan LOL Dave ---- If he stays EFI the dual tank approach is easier since there's no external valve, just a wye in both the supply and the return. If he goes to a carb all he has to do is to stick Holley regulator, Part # 12-881, on there. That will step the EFI pressure down to whatever pressure he wants for a carb, so there's no need to change the fuel system. And, hopefully very soon, I'll have a how-to on connecting the nylon fuel line to that regulator. The only downside is that currently the "estimated ship date is 8/12/2020". But, for $56 it isn't too bad.

Thank you! That's what I felt as well, but didn't want to lead the witness. If I understand correctly, the fault is that the check valve on the supply side fails. It is meant to prevent fuel coming in to Tank A when Tank B's pump is energized. So they just stick this additional check valve on the outside to stop the backflow. Given that, with one valve if I have a problem down the road I can pull the line and put the valve on the tank whose check valve is leaking. I think I'll just wait and see if I have a problem. Thanks!

Yes, side tank in shortbeds is 16 gallon. Yes, I might do a Dave in reverse...lol. Why not do the "full Dave"? Then again I don't know if you have a 16 gallon front tank to use at this time? The only thing that may be why not do the "full Dave" is if you stay with the EFI and the needed tank switch valve. With the carbed 300 six you could use the cheaper 3 port valve to switch between tanks. I got to say the best mod I did has to be the dual tanks on my flare side. And to go 1 step more go "fuller Dave" and do the metal floor What trans would you be using with either the EFI v8 or the carb 300 six? I would like to know how a M5OD would work with the 300 for a street truck. Dave ---- Don't forget that he has a '95 with EFI, and they use fuel delivery modules in the tank(s) and no external tank switching valves. All the switching is done in the FDM as controlled by the switch on the dash. The fuel lines just have a wye to join the the front and rear supplies together and the same for the returns.