Gary Lewis

Seems like a good plan. Assuming your speedometer has been reading correctly you want to go back with the same tooth count on the gear as what you have. And they are usually color coded to the tooth count.

Andre - I'm not sure I understand your question, but I think you are asking if that fan is enough to cool a 351W. And, I think you are asking what thermo switch to use. I don't know either answer, but hope others will. However, remind me what you have for an alternator. I ask because the rule of thumb is that if you are going with an electric fan you need to upgrade to a 3G alternator. We don't have any hard data to prove it, but basically the understanding is that 20 amps for an electric fans plus the draw of the ignition system, headlights, and HVAC blower motor are collectively well beyond what a 1G or 2G will put out at anything but higher engine RPMs. So, what alternator are you planning to use?

I agree - replace the tank. I just bought new tanks from Amazon, and they were about $100 each, delivered.

Happy birthday to your son! I did a lot of my undergraduate and graduate work overseas so I have a lot of ties to a lot of countries. I love to travel, always have. I'm in the middle of restoring an old camper I can't wait to pull behind the "new" truck. Once those projects are done I plan on doing a lot more exploring on this side of the pond. We were to be back in the UK in September/October this year, but that's not going to happen due to the virus. We've been on several cruises in Europe, and can't see getting on another cruise ship any time soon. So while we have wonderful memories of most of the countries in Europe and a great desire to revisit them, we are hoping to explore this side of the pond for a while as well. So, what are your degrees in? Where did you study? As for the camper, we aren't just about Bullnose trucks. Several have acquired RVs and have reported on them. So how 'bout starting a thread about your camper? We'd love to see your progress, and you might even inspire us to do the same.

Yes, in the light of day the only reasonable solution is extending the lines up to the same area as the fuel pump and tank selector relays and placing the relay there. Fortunately all the wires but those two are in C127, which is in that same area, so it shouldn't be too hard. Thanks. So wiring is my quest today. I need to graft the new tank connectors on, wire in that relay, and find the dropping resistor and bypass it. It appears the dropping resistor is also in the same area as those relay, so I know where I'll be working today.

Are these relays really waterproof? Tight enough to endure the rigors of life down on the frame? I ask because I was just looking at the tank switching valve that sits on the frame and realized that it has a motorized switch in it that determines which fuel sender gets connected to the gauge. So it would sure be slick if I could put a relay down there in place of the valve, which I won't have. The alternative is to extend the wires from the two sending units to the area on the firewall near the fuel pump cutout relay and the fuel tank selection relay and add the relay there. But everything I need is down on the frame, so it would sure be slick to just mount the relay there. Just cut off the connector for the switching valve, wire in the relay, and be done.

There are several parts to the tank switching system, as I'm learning at this very moment. There's the switch on the HVAC control panel, the tank switching relay under the hood by the brake master cylinder, and the tank switching valve below the driver on the frame.

You got a lot done, Dave! Maybe not all you hoped to do, but a lot nonetheless. As for the wire colors, it is amazing to me how many variations there are for the same plug! One time I wired the one on Big Blue using the color code on the connector. Wrong! The brakes on the trailer came on with the turn signal. Like you, after Googling it I figured it out.

It doesn't look too bad. As for the snorkels, all of the snorkels I've tried have the same bolt pattern. So you can take one off of a 300's air cleaner or a 460, or anything in between and bolt it on.

I'm not disagreeing with Rusty. Just providing a bit more info. As said, the Air Injection Reaction (AIR) pump is there to put additional oxygen in the mix going into the catalytic converter. And with the old style cats you need that. So if you pull the pump or disable it you could have a plugged cat sometime down the road as it won't have enough oxygen to burn all the hydrocarbons.

The server our forum is on is having problems. In the background I'm working to get us onto a much better, faster server. But don't hold your breath as it isn't going rapidly.

I agree with Jim, the cable is probably fine. Just did a search for "ford speedometer gear" and got this hit.

Yes, all of the HO and 460 air cleaners I've seen have a steel base. Hope that one works for you.

Thanks! I hope you enjoyed your trip. The eastern part of Oklahoma/western part of Arkansas has some pretty scenery. I went through there last fall with a friend who was visiting from the Netherlands. We camped at a few state parks and had a great time. Here's a photo of an old moonshiner's cave we found on the trip: 41? My son turned 38 today and our daughter will turn 40 in November. Yep, I'm antiquated. Friends from The Netherlands? Cool! We visited there when we lived in the UK. Loved it and the people. That's a neat cave. I really would like to poke around down there. As you said, there is some pretty scenery - basically right down the state line between you and me.

I'm not sure I understand "When I turn the gear on the cable the other side does not spin". Do you mean that the gear is spinning on the cable? IOW, you turn the gear but the cable doesn't spin? If that's the case it is likely that your gear is stripped internally where it slides on the cable. But, for that to happen it is probable that the cable is hard to turn, if not stuck. If so you need to pull the inner cable out of the outer cable, clean it, and lube it. But you do NOT want too much lube. There's a speedo cable lube with teflon in it, and another with graphite in it. Either of those goes on and "dries", leaving very little to get up into the speedo itself and mess it up. And then there's just the sticks of speedo cable grease. Dad taught me to pull the cable, wipe it down, and then run the stick against the first half of the cable going back in, but not the last half. That keeps the amount grease down and prevents messing up the speedometer, which can happen. As for the different speedo cables, the difference is the length.

I think 2 awg is very good for these trucks, and that's what I used on Big Blue's 460.

I'll check, but I'm not too worried about it. With a 460 and a serpentine belt (sorry, Bill - polygroove) I don't think rapid startup will be a problem. But thanks!

Sorry to see about your niece, Jim. You are right, family comes first.

Don't miss that you can drill the spot welds out on the part of the snorkel where the droop is, reposition it, and either tack them back or braze them back. That's how I got the droop I wanted. Also, the different snorkels have different offsets, meaning how much angle they take as they exit the air cleaner's base. And you can adjust that to some extent with the spot welds drilled out.

I've heard you say that twice in the past couple of days. And I'm a bit concerned about your mental health! Yeah, I can understand. But in this case I think I'd go more insane trying to figure out why I have all of the extraneous pieces than just going with the flow. The all-nylon lines from Huck fit, and I have no clue where the stainless lines came from.

Here's the plan - everything will be new. I'm ordering: Dorman 800-072: 25' of 3/8" fuel line Dorman 800-082 3/8" Steel To 3/8" Nylon Fuel Line Connector: There are two in a package and I need five, but I have one on an 18" piece of tubing, so will use that one from the supply wye to the fuel filter. So I'm ordering two packages. Dorman 800-082 5/16" Steel To 3/8" Nylon Fuel Line Connector: I need three of these so am ordering two packs. Male Disconnects to fuel hose: I'm still looking for the male part of the disconnects, which I think is called either a Bundy or SAE, to a 3/8" hose barb. I need one in 3/8" male and one in 5/16" male for the supply and return lines respectively. I want these to clip into the new lines on the back of the bell housing to go to the fuel pressure regulator while I'm running the carb. But have not yet found them. DORMAN 800-301 Fuel Line Repair Tool

Bill - I pulled the tubing off of the wyes today and 5 of the 6 connections came off cleanly. But I melted one of the hoses just a bit too much and it bonded with the plastic of the wye. I got the vast majority of it off and think it is fine. But, if you come up with another wye I'd sure like to buy it. Ditto for the filter bracket. If you have an extra I'd like to buy it. But if not I can make one. As for the hard line, I'm still puzzled as to why I have hard lines when I don't have a place for them. Everything fits nicely w/o them. So I'm not going to worry about it.

Turns out I don't have a lid for my Mustang twin snorkel so I can't tell you what it is off of. However, it measures 15 1/1" OD and it appears to take a filter that is 9" ID and 10 1/2" OD. To compare, my 351HO air cleaner bases that I make the twin snorkel units from measures 17 1/2" OD (the lid is 18" OD) and takes a filter that is 11" ID & 12 1/2" OD. So my Mustang housing is 2" smaller than the 351HO housings. Hope that helps.

Take a look at the tab here (Documentation/Electrical/Alternators) marked DB Electrical 130A Tests. Those are Jim's documents that came with his $70-delivered alternator. We agree, DB is the place to go.

Amen! When I got Big Blue it had a Powermaster on it. But it was making noises and I pulled it to find the bearings were bad. When I got to asking around it was based on a 10si and Powermaster said I'd have to send it in - they don't sell parts. Fortunately had left the 1G's wiring harness and regulator in place, so I popped an old 1G in and put the Powermaster's parts in a box. I've been trying to give the piece of junk away since, but haven't found anyone dumb enough to take it. There's no a nice 3G sitting on there, courtesy of Jim. Will give me lots of power and can be replaced anywhere.