Gary Lewis

That's Jerry Van Horn, aka Ozark1 on FTE: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=370207"= And yes, I own a '69 Bee. Bought one new in April of '69, but sold it in the 70's. Bought another many years ago to restore, and haven't. No front end under it and it needs a lot of work. Maybe some day, but the days are running out.......

A relay is required for it to run properly. There is no switched power feed on a Bullnose that will provide the needed current. And certainly not the wire to the old coil. But, that wire can be used to pull in a relay.

Thanks, Ray. There's now roughly one hour left in voting, and then I can finalize it. Looks like we currently have a winner, but we shall see.

That's a nice Bricknose, but they aren't my favorite. (Sorry, Jim.) However, this one's not bad and it might go for a reasonable price.

They will not work. But, they can be made to work - with a lot of work. Here are some links to what I did: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1123180-dads-truck-build-277.html#post13639026 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1123180-dads-truck-build-287.html#post13698239 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1123180-dads-truck-build-281.html#post13678239 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1123180-dads-truck-build-275.html#post13635258 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1123180-dads-truck-build-297.html#post13769250

That's a great find! That is a much better solution that trying to interface vehicle wires to little bitty connections. :nabble_smiley_good:If you run across one of those, or something like it, that has the ability inherently of sinking 500 ma, meaning w/o a shield, please let me know. But I'm sure I'll need a shield to do that.Fortunately they say the Ruggeduino-ET ST "Screw Terminal" "Works with the Arduino GUI and is compatible with Arduino shields and libraries." So a MOSFET shield should do the trick.

Bummer! Usually one or more of the slots is a transfer to help going from idle to off-idle. So not to have a single transfer circuit is odd. And sometimes the vacuum port is the channel in the base of the carb that is at about the 1:00 position in the 2nd pic. That goes nowhere?

Ok, sports fans, we have a tie. And we don't have a mechanism to break a tie. So I've added a day to the poll. VOTE!

Yep, it happens that way frequently. But, since there is no title then it should go cheaply. And you can never have too many parts. As an example, today I realized that Big Blue's transfer case shifter was wonky. Turned out it was missing two bushings - which I happened to have in another shifter.

Actually, it is mounted "in" the arm rest's bump-out, and is below the arm rest itself. I don't have a pic of exactly where the speaker hits with the door closed, but in this pic you can kind of see that with the door closed it either fires into the seat or at the very least into your hip. But, I do see the threshold in the pic, so that kind of helps me.

Rob - Thanks. Good to know. But my problem is that I would like to put the thresholds down before I put the corner trim and kick panels in. And I've filled the holes, although that doesn't matter much since the metal thresholds have the holes in different places than the later plastic ones. So I'm not sure where to put them. Perhaps I need to put the trim panels in just long enough to position the thresholds. George - Thanks! I will ultimately replace the door panels and won't put the speakers in the "new" ones. I didn't put them there, I suspect did. And, personally, it is a silly place to put speakers. As you know, having tweeters firing into your hip doesn't work very well. As for the shifter boot, I think I know how to get everything aligned. I'll put stiff wire through two corner holes, which will align the inner boot and then the outer boot. And then I'll put screws in the other two corners, remove the wires one at a time and replace them with screws.

When I saw the speeds you are driving, I remembered posting a review of trips to Skiatook, OK over the years and thought I would share: 2014 55-62 mph with no aerodynamic modifications = 21.93 mpg [highest tank = 23.26 mpg] 2015 55-62 mph with aerodynamic modifications = 24.13 mpg [highest tank = 25.72 mpg] 2016 55-70 mph [weighted towards 65-70] with aerodynamic modifications = 22.05 mpg [highest tank = 23.46 mpg] 2017 Missing data due to having driven another vehicle. 2018 65-75 mph [closer to 75] with no aerodynamic modifications] = 19.87 mpg [highest tank = 21.3 mpg] 2019 65-75 mph with aerodynamic modifications = 21.65 mpg [highest tank = 21.95 mpg] 2019 60-75 mph with partial [see explanation, above] aerodynamic modifications = 19.12 mpg [highest tank = 21.17 mpg] I would love to get your lowest of 19 or even mid 17's I could live with. When I am ready to really get into this MPG thing I need to find your post of what was done for timing, carb and aero to get the numbers you did. With the over drive I have been shifting at or just below 2000 RPM and even on the high way in over drive @ 70 MPH it is just at 2000 RPM IIRC, but I have been running 65 MPH because that was what I was running with out the over drive to get a good reading of apples to apples. My gut tells me my main jet (rod & seat) have been played with before I got the truck. The carb was missing screws, had wrong type (sheet metal) screws and had parts in the wrong place. I did not adjust the rod & seat as the paper did not give specs on it so I left it. I don't have the money for a wide band AFR gauge so going to have to wing it but I am guessing if the rod goes deeper into the seat it would be leaner? Some day I will jump into it LOL Thanks for the information Dave ---- Yes, the rod effectively makes the jet smaller, therefore leaner.

Jim - I think it was a red herring. Maybe they aren't as bad. And while I have you, could you post a pic of one of your black thresholds in place, please? Is the tab that goes down into the channel in the front or the back? Now for what I got done today. Not nearly as much as I'd hoped to do. But I did get the t-case shifter installed. I put the original one from Big Blue back in, but then realized it was very sloppy. So I pulled out the others I have and discovered that they have plastic bushings that Big Blue's didn't have but should have. So I put a pair in and that firmed it up nicely. Then I discovered what I'd expected to find - the t-case linkage was too long. (You would think that since the ZF5 is longer than a T-19 the linkage would be too short, but that's not the case.) So I made an adjustable one by cutting this one in two and welding a 1/2" bolt to one side and a matching nut on the other. Add another nut to lock it and you have a linkage that is adjustable from 7 1/4" to 8 1/4". And, here it is installed. It fit nicely at 7 5/8", and a bit of heat got the bushings to go on fairly nicely. That allowed me to put the t-case boot on, and then I turned to the transmission shift boot - and got stuck. The inner boot lines up with the holes in the transmission cover nicely by itself, but keeping it there when you bring the top boot down is the trick - and I've not mastered it. At one point I thought I'd glue it down, but it needs the top boot's stiffness to get down against the floor pan all the way around. So that's not going to work. I'm thinking that using two pieces of stiff wire to get two corners lined up and then put the screws in the other two might do it. Thoughts and ideas, please.

On most trucks there's an unused heavy yellow wire under the brake master cylinder, or in that area, that is hot at all times. And you can tap a wire that is hot in Run to pull the relay in. For instance the white/light blue that goes to the ignition will work.

No, it isn't personal. It is just what it is. As for tire size, our calculator (Documentation/Driveline/Calculators) just magically seems to be set up for Big Blue's combo of 33" tires and 3.55 gears, so it is easy for me to check the RPM. And at 65 MPH I should be turning 1795 R's.

I think you mean Page 48? That certainly shows it. I'd never looked at that before. But they still ran a #8 to trigger the starter, so that solenoid is pretty serious and not like the PMGR's.

LOL! He certainly had fun with that one. I counted 15 extraneous instances of the use of the word "bear" or "bare", as the case may be, in that, and I'm sure I missed some. Now, how would you like to be behind that Jeep when he starts it up? Jeepers!

Jim - I hadn't noticed that it shows the starter motor directly connected, much less with a 00 cable. So, PMGR starter? Or at least one with its own relay/solenoid? And the starter relay drawing doesn't give much info. But I'd bet it is supposed to be just like the gas-powered vehicles in that respect, save for the trigger wire that must have gone to the starter.

That suggests that something is getting hot, and the starter can certainly do that. A starter naturally gets warm when you crank the engine. But a worn out starter will start dragging internally as it gets hot, and dramatically reduce the cranking speed.

An '85 will have the 1G alternator with a regulator on the passenger's fender. And if it is bad the alternator will not charge correctly. As for the grounds, here's the appropriate page from the 1985 EVTM. You can see the grounds. And below that page is the page showing where the grounds are. So you should check out your wiring to see that you have those three grounds on the batteries.

That may indicate that your charging system isn't working. If the new batteries were freshly charged and it turned over faster initially, then just ok the second time, and now is slow that suggests that the batteries are not getting charged. Again, you need a volt meter. Many of the local auto parts stores carry inexpensive ones that will suffice.

Ron - You've posted in the right place. Good job. And, like Jim, I'm no diesel guru. I've never owned one nor even worked on one in reality. But I think Jim is onto something with the suggestion about the cables. One way to test the cables is via the voltage drop method, as described on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Voltage Drop Testing. But for a quick check, put your DVM on the 20 volt scale and put the positive lead on the battery's positive post, not the cable terminal but the post. And run a jumper down from the negative lead to the starter's hot terminal. Have someone crank it over and watch the DVM. With good cables you shouldn't see much voltage drop at all. But if you do then you have a problem. Similarly, put the DVM's negative terminal on the battery's negative post and the positive lead on a clean spot on the engine's block. When you crank it there shouldn't be much drop, but if there is you have a ground cable problem. EDIT: I missed your post about not having a voltmeter. But you may need to get one. Simple ones are very inexpensive and can help significantly.

Jim - I guess I don't want much TV as I don't think I've seen that commercial. Sorry. But thanks for the explanation.

I think the round headlights and the rectangular grille throw it off. Yes, I know that Ford didn't go to rectangular headlights until '78/79 depending on the trim line. As for the brake, I missed it until I saw your post, Jim. And going back to look I found it. That thing is huge!

Yes, Chris, congrat's! You really scored with that truck. Well done! I look forward to you graduating and having time to start work on the truck - and documenting it here.