Gary Lewis

Frank - I don't have an extra, but looking at the page on that (Documentation/Exterior/Spare Tire Carriers) there are three different lengths: 195 mm, 230 mm, and 265 mm. Make sure you get one that is long enough for your tire size.

Thanks, Frank. Yes, it is a special feeling.

You remove the nut and that does give you access to the eccentric. But in my experience if they've been on a while you have to drive them off. To remove the pivot bushings I used a piece of 1/2" all-thread and something that just fit and pulled them out that way. IOW, I made a puller.

George - Yes, a nice tight cab is a wonder, and gauges you can see at night are a huge blessing. Makes a truck feel solid. Dave - I feel for you on that "someone forgot to tighten the shocks". Been there, done similarly very very recently. Bill - How much interaction is there between AFR and ignition timing? IOW, you mentioned spark knock due to being too lean, but you can get there with timing as well. So is it better to be a bit more rich so you can have more advance? Or? Dane - These trucks can do amazing things with the right setup. Glad you are getting to use yours.

Thanks, guys! The onion is getting much smaller, that's for sure. If I get the seat bolted in and the power steering leak fixed and that system bled tomorrow I might get to drive him around the neighborhood. But I dare not go very far as I know the alignment is way off.

I hope it is something easy. And something obvious. But first I have to find the M10 bolts with which to properly install the seats.

That's a LOT of GOOD work! Well done, Cory! And the reinforcements look substantial.

There's no belt, so it is leaking with no pressure on the system. Why were you asking about the cooler? Think it might have rusted through?

Mine is a 3-wire, but I don't remember for sure if it is the Ford unit or the Chrysler that Bill suggested.

Ok, now all cylinders are firing and things are starting to come together. There are some noises in the valve train from time to time, and the fuel pressure sometimes sits at 5 psi and sometimes goes wonky. But it isn't running rich as I can lean the idle out too much with the mixture screws, and at 500 RPM (on the tach, but it may be a bit higher) it pulls 16" of vacuum. I talked to Steve/FoxFord33 this morning at church and he said Wednesday would be a good day to bring it in for alignment. So I need to get the seat and seat belts nailed down, the power steering/hydroboost leak found and fixed and the system bled, and then try the 2nd regulator on the fuel system. And here's what the exhaust currently sounds like. But if I get it aligned on Wednesday I hope to have the exhaust system done on Thursday.

Yes, that blotch is now aluminium. Surely conducts quite well. Ain't about to scrape off. O'Reilly's didn't have the ASF42's, but they did have a new Autolite 24, so I'm going back with these + the new one. No idea on 2 & 5, but the choke wasn't off yet. Going back out to install the plugs, and will let y'all know soonest. But those heat shields complicate things a bit, so it goes rather slowly.

Yep Plugs 1 - 4: Plugs 8 - 5: And that plug #7 a bit closer:

Yep

Well, I just did steps 1 and 2, and on both the fuel pressure came up to 5 psi perfectly. I think it is still dropping a cylinder or two at idle, but didn't run it long enough to even get the choke off as I want to pull the plugs. But, I also found a oil spot on the driveway (yes it set out last night) right under the front of the engine crossmember. There's dampness on the front of the crossmember, and the fluid looks like Royal Purple, which probably means I have a leak in the connections at or around the P/S pump.

I do have two gauges installed, as shown below, and both of them are connected on the same tee as the oil pressure switch. I don't think the pressure could be dropping that much to drop out the switch. But, I guess that is possible. So here's the test I am planning on doing: Put my jumper/switch on the oil pressure switch and, with the key on, bring the pump on w/o the engine running to see what the pressure does. I assume it'll settle at 5 psi w/o bouncing, just like it did before. Then start the engine to see what the pressure is doing. I'll bet it bounces as I've done nothing that would fix it. While the engine is running, and the gauge is presumably bouncing, close the jumper/switch to short across the oil pressure switch. If that is the problem the gauge should stabilize. I'm betting that shorting across the oil pressure switch does nothing. I'm guessing that the issue is that when the float closes the pressure spikes because the regulator can't react quickly enough. And I'll bet the float is chattering. If that is the case then maybe the deadhead regulator will fix that?

Gary, your venture here is going much like mine did. Recall my bad "New" pickup coil, too much fuel pressure with new fuel pump, etc. I had to laugh when you mentioned checking the firing order for the 10th time. I also pulled the distributor a half dozen times as well. Very frustrating. I'm with Jim here, and I know this much, my truck ran like crap when I put a new mechanical fuel pump on. Apparently, it was too much pressure for my Edlebrock carb. But, I could smell the gas and the plugs were quickly fowled. I want to see those plugs. Is that fuel pressure gauge new? The more I think about it the more I'm coming around to what you guys are saying - that fuel pressure might be the cause of the problem. I've read many, many times that too much pressure causes a poor idle, especially on an Edelbrock. And while I was able to adjust the idle fuel mix and the RPM responded, what if with that much pressure we are sloshing fuel over into the bore? And on a seemingly regular basis? The overall RPM would probably come down with the AFR change due to the mixture screws, but the slosh would cause it to miss at other times. So, maybe that needs to be my first priority this afternoon. The gauge itself isn't new, but the regulator is. That gauge was on the dead-head regulator I had on the truck before, so I moved it over to this return-style regulator. But I'll need to move it back when I put the dead-head regulator in after the return-style.

George - Isn't it amazing how much better a vehicle "feels" when you get a good exhaust system on it? And the painted gauge needles make a huge difference as well. You are going to be soooooo happy! John - Glad you got the clip off and the odo reset. But the lights will make the biggest difference of all. Amazing how much difference the relay harness makes.

And, by the way, I've added that to these pages: Documentation/Electrical/Switches Documentation/Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems

I think this is the one: E0AZ 9278-A or Motorcraft SW-1592.

Jim - I agree the fuel problem needs to be solved, although I'm doubting that the bouncing pressure is causing what seems to be a very regular miss. But I think the extra pressure regulator might be the trick. Bill - I think I'm using the Ford switch and it does control the relay. And thanks for the plug #.

You are on a slippery slope. One thing leads to another and you'll have a "transformed" vehicle.

John - I slept in this morning and looked at a few other threads before settling in on mine. Bill - What Motorcraft plugs are you running in Darth? I may need to pick up a set so want to be ready with the #. As for the DS-II tester, yep I have it and know right where it is. When the dust settles on this I'll test this box, but it is obviously bad. But why your relay is controlled by the EEC, my EEC is still in a tote.

Morning, all! Hope your evening and night was as good as mine. First, the plugs are Autolites. And I think that I'll start by pulling them and see what they look like. Then, if that doesn't point to a problem then I'll put them back, confirm the wiring is in the right order (for the 10th time) and fire it up. Then I can do the IR thermometer and the timing light tests. And the first ignition box I used is bad. The tach was wonky. Turn the key on and it would go to 3000 sometimes. When the engine was running it would sometimes drop as the RPM came up. And that's why I changed to the other one, which made a huge difference, both in the way the engine runs awa the tach itself, which is now solid. On the fuel pressure, there is probably 10 gallons of gas in the rear tank. And I know I'm running off of it as the front tank is unplugged. And I'm confused as to why with the engine running I have the pulsing and didn't with the engine off. I think I'll pull the air cleaner, put the switch on the oil pressure switch, and see if I have pulsing with the engine off. But note in the video that the pulses seem to be perfectly timed with the pulses of the engine. Am I imagining that? If it is true, what could cause it? Sloshing of the fuel in the carb causing the float to drop and open? As for getting that pressure down, do we really think that needs to be fixed? If so I do have a deadhead style regulator that was on BB previously. It would be pretty easy to put it in the line between the regulator that is there and the carb. Perhaps that would smooth it out?

I think I'm going to go off-line for the evening. I'll check on the part number tomorrow. And I'll also figure out what to do and test.

Jim - I don't have a part number for just the inner boot. It came with the new outer boot. Want that number and link? And I don't have the AFR meter on it yet. There are no bungs for the O2 sensors as the bungs will go in the new collectors when I have the exhaust done. But I'm pretty sure the carb isn't rich. I played with the idle air/fuel mix screws and they were properly adjusted. If I opened them up or screwed them in the idle speed dropped. So I don't think it is rich. And it doesn't smell rich either. But pulling the plugs is probably a good place to start.