Gary Lewis

Well, mine looks a bit different, and it might be thinner. Was for the headers.

And, it has the unusual Hi Output heater. Didn't notice that at first.

And the desirable non-EGR spacer 🤩 Two more reasons to buy the truck, Cory!

Haha no news yet Gary. Overall it’s pretty crusty. Surprisingly intact but not sure the juice is worth the squeeze. Maybe. I’m going to sleep on it. Ok. But you have us "in suspenders" as Dad would have said.

Actually, no we didn't have a torch. He did later after I left home. But I have a few wrenches that I've "gotten creative" on. I have a Craftsman 13mm box/open that has the box turned 90 degrees to the shank. Don't remember what the need was, but it sure solved it. And didn't I recently shave an open end down to get in a tight spot?

Dad didn't have all of those wrenches early on, just the open ends and box/opens, but over time he added a distributor wrench and a few crowfoot wrenches. So I grew up using them. However, in our little town in Kansas we might not have known what everyone else called them. But as the tool-fetcher I knew what he asked for and got to the point I could anticipate the request.

And???????

I suspect that part number E2TZ 12127-U is ID #E2TE 12127-UA. And that is used in only two calibration codes: CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 247 (Calibration No. 2-75J-R18)-8 Cyl. 351W C.I.D. (5.8L) 1982 F250 - - M/T—0/8500 lb. GVW 1982 F350 - - M/T CALIBRATION PARTS LIST NO. 248 (Calibration No. 2-76J-R18)-8 Cyl. 351W C.I.D. (5.8L) 1982 E250 (82) - - A/T 1982 E350 - - A/T 1982 F250 - - A/T—0/8500 lb. GVW 1982 F350 - - A/T

Yep, Jim. That's correct. It is confusing. But Christian's truck is like mine was. I guess I didn't have my head around that either. But at least I have the "the thread" so I can go back and find "it". For instance, the dipstick that was just asked about.

Glad it is going to be that easy! That's amazing, Bill. Good luck!

https://core-shifters.com/collections/tc-knobs/products/transfer-case-shift-knob-for-1982-2016-ford-trucks-np208-bw1356-np271?variant=33072514822 I bought one of these. My original would move around and come off when you shifted. Drove me nuts! It’s held on with a set screw. The only thing I did was clean up the hole for the set screw, you could feel it when you grabbed the knob. I like it! Thanks, Dane. Hadn't seen that. It says NP208 & BW1356, so I'm pretty sure it would fit a BW1345.

Thanks, John. The dipstick is a Lokar. You can read more about it in this post. I couldn't find one that fit with the headers and my engine builder, Scotty, recommended the Lokar.

Alright guys, it is time for the nominations for the October TOM voting. As always, here are the carryovers from last month's voting, but y'all need to nominate your trucks by posting a pic in this thread. Angelo's father's red w/a bull bar: Brian/Dee's Bullnose: Steve/Old55pete's 86 Bronco: And George & Nick's Brutus:

Congratulations to Myrl/myrl883 as his "Parts Truck" is the September 2020 Truck Of The Months!

Shaun - The knob differences don't bother me at all. They are what they are. As for keeping the knob on, I hadn't thought about Loctite. I guess I was thinking more like somehow installing a set screw or removing the pattern piece and drilling it and tapping it for a screw. But if Loctite will do it and still let me get it off, perhaps that's the best way to do it. Bill - Yes, I'm still using the '85 harness in many places, inc the A/C. Well spotted. And I thought the black sill plates kind of fit with what I'm thinking of doing on the grille and headlight doors - black.

Top off? It leaks, and that just gives more to leak. I'm with you. I'd want to sit down with the owner and go back to the original bid and see what was done, what wasn't, and why. I understand that there are always things that come up, but .....

Yes, it is a nice truck. Clean. But I'm with Shaun on that carpet.

Got several things done today. But first, what is the best way to secure the transfer case shift knob on the splined shifter in a way that I can still get it off if I need to do so? Ok, with that question out of the way let's move on to the transmission's shift boot. Yesterday I tried plans A & B, and today I tried C - the stiff wire. And none of them worked. So I came up with Plan D - longer screws to align things. But that didn't work as the screw holes in the upper shift boot were just the right size to make the screws thread through it and it wouldn't slip down on the screws, regardless of how long they were. So I drilled out the holes and then the longer screws aligned it. Done! However, there are several other things in that pic to point out. First, there's new weatherstripping for the doors. (Rob, there are two 8 1/2" pieces of extra weatherstripping. Do you want both?) Second, the thresholds are on. And third, I put the block-off plates back in the kick panel areas. The weatherstripping and kick panel plates are so the truck can sit out if needed and not have water coming into the cab. And the thresholds were installed so the carpet will stay in place. And to finish up I finished the fresh air feed to the PVC system, as you can see in the pic. But, you can also see that there's no reason that I can put the spacer Bill suggested between the carb and the air cleaner. But, then I'll have to re-do the fresh air hose and it'll be a bit short. No prob, I have more. So, tomorrow it is time to install the replacement FDM.

I don't like being wrong, but I'd much rather someone point it out so someone else isn't getting frustrated trying to follow incorrect instructions. That's what I mean by "catch it".

You are right, I'm wrong. Good catch, Jim. Thanks.

Isaiah 38:5 OOOOOHHHHHHH! Even better! Thanks, David!

F8. As for deviations, this isn't numbers-matching. The tranny doesn't have a VIN and the engine has the wrong one, IIRC. So I don't think I'm going for show. Maybe GO!

That really is nice, and a good price.

Congrat's! The first thing I'd do is to verify that the tank switching valve is sending power to the pumps and connecting the sending units to the gauge. You can check the latter by grounding the lead at the sending unit, obviously with the switch thrown to the tank you are testing, and you should see the gauge go to Full. If the TSV works electrically then I'd verify that it is working to route both the supply and return lines properly. You should be able to blow through it to test that. If the TSV is working then you are now to a point to test the pumps and sending units. But if you are that far in I'd pull the units out of the tanks to see what the tanks look like inside. No sense placing the bed back on if you have a rusty tank.

It is blue. But was originally F3 green. May wind up as F8 green, which our daily driver Bee was when we got married. As for the 10 years, I'll hold you to that. But I gotta get Big Blue on the road, and he still has a number of mods coming. Then there's Dad's truck. So the Bee may be a turn-key job.