Gary Lewis

Yes I have spark even when it wont start, I also have fuel when it won't start. When It does run it seems the resistance increases in the coil for the injector with heat and eventually cuts off at around 22.8 give or take a few tenths. As they cool the resistance drops to around 18 and can start the engine again. Everything I have seen has said 11-14.4 ohms and the high performance injector is like 18 ohms on the high side. Given all the other stuff I have done and replaced, I have never given the injectors a solid look. Honestly because the truck will run. I spoke with a friend of mine who had a very similar problem on a TPI Camaro where he went through and changed the fuel system out, ecm, did all this work and the coils in the injectors were out of parameter. Changed the injectors and the car would run as it should. However this is the only case I have heard of and I am like wth I already have 2500 in parts what is another 350? Tell me what you thoughts are! I'll speculate, but that is all that it is - speculation. An electromagnet works by the current creating a magnetic field. The more current the more field and, therefore, the stronger the pull is. And fuel injectors are valves with electromagnets in them. As your injectors are losing resistance they are also losing current. I = E/R, so the current equals the voltage divided by the resistance. The voltage is staying the same but the resistance is changing and so is the current, but inversely. Perhaps the lower current doesn't create enough magnetic field to open the injector adequately? Everything I'm reading says that the max resistance is about 17 ohms. So yours have too much resistance. But I see your reluctance to just swap them out. On Rock Auto injectors for your truck run from $26 to $133 each!

What model # is it?

Greg - I can't find any reference to the ohm range for injectors in our documentation. But I may be missing it. What you are saying appears to be that the resistance goes up on them and the truck dies, but when they cool down it'll start? Meanwhile you still have pulses to them, even when it won't start? That doesn't make sense to me. Do you have spark while it won't start?

Glad you did find us. Our About page says "This site is dedicated to being the world's best discussion community and documentation website for the 1980 - 1986 Ford light trucks." And it is, indeed, that - a community. Glad you joined us.

We'll get there. Ford part numbers. First, there are three parts to a part #: Prefix that tells what it is for and when it was designed; generic number that is used on all Ford vehicles everywhere; and the suffix. Second, any number on a part is not a part number. It is an ID or engineering #, which is different from the part number but can usually be cross-referenced to the part number. Your 19D897 is BRACE (AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR). And the Master Parts Catalog says that an 83/87 E-F100/350 - - 7.5L takes part # E3TZ 19D897-A. I'm not sure that having that number will help you, but at least you know that any 1983 - 87 E or F-series vehicle w/a 460 and factory installed A/C should have that part. And to help with the part number decoding, the E3TZ means: E = the decade of the 80's 3 = 1983 - the year it was designed and usually first used T = truck, which normally means the F-Series pickups but in this case it is also used on the E-Series vans Z = replacement part

Welcome! Glad you joined. And while what you have isn't truly a Bullnose, several of our members don't have a Bullnose either, so you won't be an outsider. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city or a zip. Who knows, you might be a neighbor? Again, welcome.

I hate intermittent problems. At least you have it running. Now what? What are you going to try next?

Actually, I've sent Keith an email with a link to Ray's comment. But you are right, "crap" is a rather generic term. First, he's going to need part numbers as there are probably several different mirrors. Second, he's going to need to know what you didn't like about them.

I agree. Our Vendor Reviews & Ratings folder is for the former, and what I am trying to do is come up with something for the latter - the quality of individual products. For instance, someone recently asked about bumpers. Wouldn't it be nice if we had a thread on Bumpers that rated the ones from the various vendors? And Ray posted in the vendor review & ratings thread about LMC's mirrors - which is not what that thread is intended for. But we don't have a place to house comments about mirrors, so since it was about LMC he chose to put it there. And since it isn't likely anyone would take the time to read all the posts in a thread about bumpers or mirrors to suss out who has good ones, I'm trying to come up with a way to rate them - w/o having a thread for LMC's bumpers and another one for NPD's bumpers, etc.

I like that, Ray. Worked very nicely.

I'm sorry, but you were requested in the email I sent you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and introduce yourself in a new thread there. Not post first in the Want To Buy section. We are very strict on the guidelines and want everyone to have read them so they know what is expected. So please assure me you've read them. And, after you've done your introduction post perhaps someone will come forward with the parts for which you are looking. Also, once you done that I will address the part number - and 19D897 is not a complete part number. It is a BRACE (AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR) and that's the generic number used for an A/C brace in every Ford vehicle produced from 1964 to day, anywhere in the world.

In this post Vic Roma asked "Is it worth noting which company sells good mirrors, and other repro products?" I could have answered in that thread, which is the review of LMC - Long Motor Company, but I think the question deserves to be considered in its own thread. Basically it got me to thinking about how to catalog reviews. One approach would be have a two dimensional review board, with suppliers across the top and components down the side, and y'all provide the ratings. But that leaves someone, probably me, having to compile the info and watching to see if/when it changes. Instead, we could do something similar to what we are doing with the vendors and use a poll - like the one below. I can't change the poll after it is created, meaning I can't add vendors, so we'd have to agree which ones to go with from the start, and all polls would be limited to those vendors. However, that doesn't really work very well since you may not know who has good mirrors. Take Ray, for instance, who said "Side mirrors are crap from LMC. Don't order them." So how would he vote? And I can't put multiple polls in a post. Or, I could make the question negative, like "Who sells crap mirrors?" But then what if you get good mirrors? How would you vote? Bottom Line: I think there's a way to do it but it isn't coming to me. Help! Suggestions, please!

It is doing well, Jim. I charged it for several days on the 10 amp setting, which brought it up very slowly given its size. Then as it hit the low 13's the smart switch closed and the two batteries went into parallel, so I left the charger on the 10 amp setting until we hit 14.5 volts, at which point I dropped the charger to the 2 amp setting. During that time I was working in the cab so had the doors open and the dome light and two footwell lights, all LED, as well as the parallel relay apparently pulled slightly more than 2 amps as the voltage would slowly go down during the day to maybe 12.4 volts, but then come back up to about 13.0 volts over night. And after all that it seems to stay up at 12.8 now over night w/o the charger. So I think it is good.

George - I think you have Super Bees and Superbirds confused. The Super Bee was a B-body Dodge hot rod, but without a wing. It was basically a Dodge Coronet with a hot engine and H/D suspension The Superbird was a heavily modified Plymouth Road Runner with a wing and was designed for super speedways. Dodge also had a winged racer, the Charger Daytona but, as the name implies, it was based on the Charger and not the Coronet. The Dodge hot rods were the Super Bee, with a base 383, and the R/T with a base 440. The Plymouth hot rods were the Road Runner, with a 383 base, and the GTX with a 440 base.

Sam - I'm glad you ran through all the scales. But Jim has a good point about the batteries maybe being sulphated, which is easy to do, and in that case they probably won't stay at 12.8 volts after the charge is removed. So you may not have a drain.

That IS nice! But I don't understand why people strap a big tac in front of the tac spot. Why not just get the real thing? That's the way Big Blue was when I got him. You couldn't even see the speedo easily.

Thanks, guys. I'm not sure I'm quite at the finish line, Rob, but I can see it. Sure feels good, but there are still a few things to work out. Jim - Not sure I want to hit the curb as that reminds me of a text from my son a few days ago: "Do you have any tricks to get a stuck wheel off?" Told him to put the bolt/nuts back in/on but loose, and put it back down on the ground. He called later to explain that it was on his wife's Audi and there'd been a curb involved and the tire was flat. He got the tire off and the doughnut spare on, after using the on-board air compressor as they come flat. As for what I did this afternoon, at the end of the day I discovered a small spot of purple lube under the engine crossmember again. Apparently I do have a leak in the P/S system, and it appears to be coming from around the pump as all of the lines and connections between the pump and the hydroboost unit are completely dry. So I wiped everything down and placed clean paper towels where they'll catch the leak and, hopefully, I can pinpoint it tomorrow. I also got the piggybacked fuel pressure regulator on. Here's a shot of the whole contraption: In that shot you can see that I used a mount for the fuel injection rail on the lower plenum to hold a piece of aluminum on which the regulator's bracket is mounted. Unfortunately I didn't account for the angle the mount has with reference to horizontal and, as you can see in the pic below, the pressure gauge sits up a bit. And that "bit" is about 1/4" too much as it hits the air cleaner. So tomorrow I think I'll tweak the aluminum plate just a bit. But the real question is whether it works or not, and it does appear to do so. Unfortunately I only have one gauge so I don't know for sure that the pressure was bouncing around at the first regulator, and since it didn't always do it I don't know when we'll know for sure that it works. But I think it is and will check it out more tomorrow.

Did you turn your meter down after the initial test? I should have said that. You put it on 10A to make sure there's no big current draw. And then keep dropping it down until you run out of scales or find some current. In other words, the .030 amp max I mentioned might not show up on the 10 amp scale.

12.4 volts isn't all that "fully charged". Should be more like 12.8 volts. So I'm guessing you have a small draw. I'd pull the positive cable and put my DVM, in the 10 amp mode, from the positive post the positive cable. With the door shut so the dome light isn't on, you shouldn't have more than ~30 ma of draw, meaning .03 amp. If you do you need to find it.

Time for an early mid-day report - I drove it! Around the yard to turn it around and then out through the gate and around the neighborhood. But first, the morning's activities. The seat and seat belts are now bolted in with thread sealer on the fasteners. And the power steering/hydroboost system apparently doesn't have any leaks. It seems that the dummy that filled it up missed the filler hole on the Saginaw and it ran down the side thereof, dripped onto the crossmember, ran down that, and then dripped onto the ground. I checked everything over and it was all tight, so I filled it up and started the truck. No leaks. Turned the wheel, refilled, turned the wheel, refilled, stomped the brakes, refilled, etc until it needed no more fluid. And here are some observations from the drive: The steering works very smoothly and it turns much tighter than it used to The brakes WORK! Don't press the pedal unless you want to STOP! The tranny shifts nicely The ride is better, although I really haven't gone far enough to tell much The transfer case shifts nicely, although I apparently put the shift arm in backwards as 4Lo is in front and 2Hi is to the rear. So this afternoon I'm going to install the 2nd pressure regulator, although the pressure was sitting nicely on 5 psi when I checked it. If I have time left after that I'll install the headlight doors so the turn signals have a place to ride. Then maybe I'll add the grille and upper and lower trim.

Oh, but we agree! Restoration-modification and restoration-modernization are both restomods. The reason I go with "modification" is that it allows for installing older technology. For instance, I recently saw someone asking about installing a flathead in a Bullnose. That's not "modernization" but it certainly is "modification". And if for sure isn't "restoration".

Ray - I'd forgotten about that. The one I was remembering was Dad's truck. But on one, if not both, I remember using all-thread to push the bushing out.

So what would you say of George's 429 Mustang scenario? It's not what the car came with, but it's not modernized in any way. I'm of the mind that "period correct" whether factory or aftermarket does not fit the "modernized" aspect of restomod. It's a Hot Rod for sure, but not restomod. Then again, I don't think adding a Pertronix distributor to your Super Bee (in and of itself) would count as restomod either. Maybe I feel that the changes have to be more drastic. By most of the definitions I've read of "restomod", any deviation from factory is a modification. So pointless ignition, as in Pertronix, would make it a restomod. But you are right, there has to be some limit to that. If I added a right-hand rear view mirror, which most cars had but which my '69 Bee doesn't, would that be a mod? Technically yes, but there's no documentation on the vehicle to say it didn't have one, so... (Trust me, it needs one! The first day I had it I looked to the right and there was no car showing in the mirror so I started to move over. Then I realized there was no car showing in the mirror as there was no mirror. But, there was a car there!) But to the question about the 429, that's a modification. But George's question about it being a clone is a good one. I guess I'd say that swapping the engine to a 429 makes it a restomod. But adding all of the badging and labels to say it is a Boss 429 is making it a clone. So, maybe my personal dafynitions would be: Restoration: If it is essentially the way it rolled off the assembly line it is a restoration. Ok, maybe you can sneak a Pertronix module in the dash and go pointless and still call it a restoration. But you can't remove the Holley and put an AVS on there 'cause that's an improvement. Restomod: Anything that at, at first blush, looks like a restoration but turns out to be modified - for whatever reason. A 429 in a Mustang that didn't come with one would be one. An '85 F250 w/a '95 engine, transmission, front axle, and fuel system would be one. Clone: A vehicle that has had parts and badging changed to make it like, if not the same as, another vehicle. A 302-based '69 Mustang with a Boss 429 and all associated badging would be one. As would a '69 Bee with a Hemi and the associated D60 rear axle. (Note that Detroit put a D60 behind a Hemi and under a 460.)

I think the term "restomod" is poorly understood or, maybe more accurately, poorly defined. Here are a few definitions I've read: Original Parts Group: A true “restoration” is a vehicle that has been reassembled with the goal of bringing it back to factory-stock condition only. A “restomod” job is defined as a vehicle that has been put back together with the addition of new modern or aftermarket parts that were not on the vehicle when it came from the factory. This makes a “restomod” a car with a combination of both factory original parts and some new parts designed to improve the performance or appearance of a vehicle, like putting a modern engine in it to make it more drivable, or painting a car in a new color that the original factory did not offer at the time of manufacture. A car falls into the “restoration” category when it is restored back to the exact original specifications it had when it left the factory assembly line. CJ Pony Parts: A restomod combines the classic styling of old school vehicles with new technology. Rather than using all stock components, restomods use aftermarket parts to improve upon the performance and appearance of older vehicles. Restomods are becoming increasingly popular, with many builds stealing the show at SEMA and other car events. WHAT DOES RESTOMOD MEAN? As the name implies, restomod is a combination of “restoration” and “modification.” Restoration requires using all original parts to restore a car back to factory specs. Restomods are restorations that also use aftermarket parts not available from the factory. Many restomod parts fit like stock but provide more capability, performance, and comfort. Super Chevy Magazine: Now, before all those upgrades took place, the body was restored (remember that word) to appear in like-new condition, which is where we get the term "resto," short for "restored." Once the car takes on parts to improve its performance, handling, and safety, the car has now been "modified." With the car now being restored and modified, it is then referred to as a "restomod." My own belief is that it gets down to the vehicle itself and what it rolled off the assembly line with. If you deviate from that it is not a restoration. You've modified the vehicle.

That's the kind of info I was looking for. But that was a generic question, and not anything I am going to use on Big Blue - at least right now. For BB I'll run the Eddy as set and certainly the ignition as Scotty dialed it in.