Gary Lewis

Scott - Thanks for bringing this up as I was thinking incorrectly about how I would do it. (For the rest of y'all, I was thinking I'd get the backup light circuit right out of the fuse box, but Scott pointed out that it is always hot, so I need to tap into the circuit after the switch on the transmission.) I like your suggestion, which fits with Bill's. Basically add the trailer relays, plural, so my aux backup lights as well as those on the trailer are powered off the relay and a fuse in the PDB. Good plan, guys. Now, for what I did today. 'Twas another "I planned to do this, but didn't" day. And I'm glad I didn't as I'll explain. I needed to unwrap the harness that the washer wiring was in and it was under the aux battery tray, so I took it off again. And, as I was staring into the abyss under it I saw the horn and remembered that I wanted to add the bull horn that I got from Vernon. So I pulled out the original horn and played around with fitting the bull horn in there. I did find a way that fit pretty nicely but that had about half of the horn's outlet blocked by the radiator support. So I did a bit of drilling: Then I mounted the horn: And then put the aux battery tray back over it for a test, and it clears by 1/4": And, what does it sound like? Well, this is the video I sent my grandtwins as they got quite a kick out of listening to it when they were staying with us early last year. In fact, on a call recently they asked me to fire it up again.

Scott - I was assuming I'd tap into the P/O wire near the fuse box and run it up to the switch. The other side of the switch would be always hot, so you can pick between on with the tranny in reverse, off, or always on. But, is there another way?

With the new blend of fuel who knows what it does any more I did replace the pan gasket along with the valve & lifter cover gaskets. I think the timing gear cover is where the leak is from as I see dirt / oil up high but need to do some cleaning. I cant believe how much dirt can get on everything in a little over a year and I don't drive on dirt roads! As for the lights I do have shims between the lights and the bumper to get them tight. IIRC I can adjust up / down but left / right I may need to oblong the bolt holes and why I have not gotten in to it before now. The bulbs look to sit the same as the old ones I think it is a pattern difference between the bulbs. This set points more to the left, on coming traffic and not as far down the road. Old bulbs were Wagner's and looked to be a whiter light. The new ones Sylvania XtraVision - both Halogen bulbs. Maybe if I went with the Sylvania SilverStar's with a whiter light I would be happier but they were $26 each where mine were $18 each, live and learn I guess. I think the adjusters will "adjust" from what I remember, I know the others on the spare support and a no go! If I have to I will get new ones. The AFR meter is a AEM 30-4110 got it off Ebay for $165 shipped from Winner's Circle. It comes with everything to install (from the looks as I just opened it) even the bung. I am pretty sure my Y pipe has a bung that the factory uses for EFI. Remember I am running EFI manifolds with a replacement Y pipe on my 300. I am sure the carb was rich even with out using the AFR meter as it feels to run smoother. Also as noted less condensate smoke out the tail pipe. Will update when I get to this. Dave ---- Dave - That's supposed to be a good meter. Enjoy!

With all of the problems with the screws I'm not surprised the headlights aren't aimed correctly! Hope you can dial them in easily. On the AFR, what meter did you get? Are you going to have to weld in a bung for the O2 sensor? As for the "milk shake", I'd think the AFR would have to be very rich in order to cause that from just too much gas. But, I'm anxious to learn.

I agree - the wrong width tire on a rim is bad news. My approach is to find the rim's width and go to Tire Rack. Pull up a few tires I'm considering and look at the details to find the recommended rim width.

No, we don't have a recurving thread or page. Would be good to have a page on ignition timing spelling out initial, mechanical/centrifugal & vacuum advance, how to set/tune them, what they do, etc. And, a discussion of what EGR does to timing. As for the carb, I agree. Out of the box was surely rich in Pueblo at almost 5000', so it may well have been rejetted. If not, it is probably going to need it.

That's a great improvement. Now you have a flat, fairly level, surface to sit on, stand on, work on, etc. n

Coffee making via my Keurig doesn't take long. (Yes, I know it is environmentally "wrong", but I drink three cups of different roasts at very different times of the day, so....) I do have the '83 EVTM, but not scanned in nor on the site. However, I can check out the fuel system when I get out to the shop after while. I'm thinking that the '83 and '85 were the same, but Ford had so many "better ideas" with regard to fuel systems back then, many of which weren't, that I don't know for sure and had better look.

235's will fill them up much better w/o doing too much to your overall gearing or speedometer readout.

Yes, that does look great! I'm glad that it tightened up the steering so well that you don't need the damper. I'd often wondered if that might be the case, and you've proven it. Sure glad Rusty has found such a good home.

Gantor II looks to be quite the truck! You've done a whole lot of work! I know very little about the later steering columns or shift detents, so I'll stay out of that discussion. And I'm biased on the forum thing, so will stay out of it as well. But Gantor II is cool!

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city or ZIP. But wherever you are in a 50 - 60 mile radius of Pueblo you live in a beautiful area. On the engine, I agree with Jim - looks like a solid build. And I'm running a Luk clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate in Big Blue's 460. As for the carb, I doubt you'll be running enough more air through the engine with the intake and cam to cause a jetting change to be needed - assuming it was already jetted correctly. However, in my experience a 4160 out of the box is jetted fairly rich at sea level, and where you are it may be very rich unless the previous owner had it tuned. But I think you have a minor problem with your build - ignition timing. EGR introduces exhaust gas, which is inert, into the air/fuel mix and that causes the flame front to slow significantly. So the timing in the distributor is advanced to account for that. But when you eliminate the EGR system now you have too much timing and it is likely you'll have pinging, if not detonation - at least when you get the air/fuel ratio set correctly. The solution is a distributor with the correct advance. Jim and I've both used Scotty at Parkland Auto Machine for a number of things, with great results. And one thing I got from him was a new distributor with the timing built in for my engine setup. I'd recommend giving him a call and to see about getting a distributor for your setup. We'll probably need to discuss the fuel system when you get things back together. What you have is a complex system that is ok when everything works, but by now there are frequently problems.

Those are interesting PDB's. I like the idea of being able to swap relays for fuses and vice versa.

I like that idea, Scott. I do have plenty of relays on hand. Another option might be to put the PDB in place and then make a bracket to hold the ignition module on its side. But, in reality, a large part of the ignition wiring gets taken out when EFI goes in, so it might be best to just use a couple of extra relays for the moment for fog and backup lights. Or, do I really need the fog and backup lights right now? Perhaps they are for later, meaning when I do some overlanding? Lots of thoughts. Guess I'd better let them settle a bit...

Those are nice looking bumpers. I have one for Dad's truck. But, I don't have brackets - yet.

I found # E7EB 14487-AA as PN E6DZ 14487-A, but I can't find any of the others.

I grabbed my 1980 cross-ref and the D1 #'s don't show, nothing that early. I'll have to get the later one and see if I can find the E7 #'s......

I'm not sure it is "horrible" in my book, but I think you can do better. What do you have in mind?

Bill - My MPC is OCR'd, so I found them, or at least some of them. I need to see if I can cross reference your #'s, which I think are ID #'s, not part #'s, to these #'s. So here are your numbers: .060 female, Ford PN E7EB-14487-AA, Clips & Fasteners A18408 .060 male, Ford PN E7EB-14461-BA, AUVECO 20475 .110 female, Ford PN D1AB-14488-CA, Dorman 85356, AUVECO 14888 .110 male, Ford PN D1AB-14461-AA, Dorman 85345, AUVECO 14887

That test is a major step, Bill. Congrat's! And your plan on the lens seems solid. Go for it!

I intended to reroute the windshield washer pump's wiring today, but when I got started I discovered that I really needed to remove the aux battery to get to where the convolute on that harness starts, and then things got crazy. So, what I really did was to essentially install the EFI air cleaner box. I say "essentially" because right now I'm using standoffs made out of PEX, which works pretty nicely. But I'll make some real spacers tomorrow and finish that up. Why spacers? Because the Bullnose fenders have a piece sticking out where the Bricknose fenders don't. So the box has to be spaced in 5/8" to clear that bump, and that makes the cold air duct a very tight fit, so I had to make the spacers as short as possible. But, it works. Here's a shot of the air box bracket. Notice that I used the corner support from the battery mount to support the outboard end of the air box bracket. And, while it looks like the battery hold down touches the air box bracket, it doesn't - it misses by 1/8". Also, you can see two of the blue PEX standoffs in this pic, and you can see the raised area in the fender that makes the spacers needed. Here's the same shot with the air box and cold air duct installed. Note how the air conditioning line goes above the cold air duct, and how close the duct is to the power steering pump. And, in this shot you can see where the PDB will go - right where the ignition modules are, which is going to make things interesting if I want to run the PDB before I change out to EFI. Hmmm, the switches are rated for 20A so maybe I don't need relays for the fog and backup lights. Now for the cold air duct. Apparently the Bricknose radiator support has a bigger opening, and it may be in a different position. I say that because the cold air duct is 6" tall and the opening in the radiator support is 5" tall. And, this one is really too close to the radiator to work perfectly with this duct. But, with the mod's shown below it works. You can see that I cut off the curved end and cut two steps into the duct where the red arrows are. The part sticking out goes into the opening in the radiator support and anchors the duct. And here's my best shot of how the lip sticks out through the radiator support, but it is obviously hard to see due to the grille. If I had to do it over again I might leave the curved section on and just put the notches in. Thoughts?

Well, that was interesting. Apparently it is: 425A34 Panel (tailgate) (1981/84) •E1TZ 99425A34-CA (1985/86) •E5TZ 99425A34-A

I don't know that the windshield has a part number. You just get them from the glass company. BUT, make sure it doesn't obscure the VIN. Later ones do obscure the Bullnose VIN, and that can be a problem when you sell the truck. DAHIK. On the name plate, that will be shown on the page at Documentation/Exterior/Name Plates.

Bill - I've just gone through the '86 schematics and while there are LOTS of connector depictions just like I showed before, there is no table or anything else showing part numbers. I wish, but no go.

Thanks for the explanation, Bill. I think I'll do away with the pressure switch as I do the rewiring. No need to make it more complicated that it will already be. For the EFI system I want to keep it pretty close to stock '96 so it can be troubleshot when the time comes.