Gary Lewis

If yours are that badly bitten by UV then it would be a lot of work to bring them back to a semblance of new, and you'll probably never get back to "new". So NOS or thereabouts would be a better choice - especially for you. However, the SEM stuff covers extremely well. I painted black door panels as well as blue other panels and you cannot see any difference in the colors of the finished product. So you don't have to find good/new/NOS panels in your color. Having said that, panels that are the right color originally will always be better than ones that have a different base color.

Looks like he has several hoods, fenders, radiator supports, etc. Here are a couple of screen snags:

Pretty!

Nice! And, while it, too, is expensive, at least you could put a radio in there, unlike the radio-delete bezel. But I still like my medium-duty bezel better.

That's pretty, but expensive!

By the way, you could buy the SEM paint and paint two door panels to match and not buy the NOS one. Or, buy any colored NOS panels.

Yes, I'm confirming it. You can cut/drill the holes to install the bright trim.

Thanks, Scott. I've not ordered anything as small as #8 so hadn't tried GLS for that. But I don't see it on there, so I think you are right. I'll have to compare Zorro's prices for Magnalugs next time around. And, by the way, that was "power mirrors" not "power windows".

You've sure been saying "SOLD" a lot lately. Any idea of these things are going to people that saw your posts?

Excellent! You are going to be sooooo pleased!

The bright trim goes on over the indentation in the door panel and has a series of tabs and studs that go through holes in the door panel. It looks like at one time Ford offered panels with the holes/slots already in them as the 1980 entry for Broncos shows a place for them. But the black star (of death) means they are no longer available, and there's no part number shown either. And, none of the other years for the Bronco and no years for the F-Series have them shown in the catalog. My new door panels that came in a Ford box didn't have the holes or slots. But they could be put in fairly easily by using your old door panel as a template. I chose not to as I like them w/o, but that's personal taste.

I got the coolant/windshield washer reservoir installed and the coolant hose run to the radiator neck. In addition I have the windshield washer hose run to the reservoir. Tomorrow I'll tease the wiring to the washer pump out of the harness it is in on the driver's fender liner, extend it, and run it across the firewall and connect it to the pump. Then I have to pull the aux battery and remove the brackets for the reservoir from that side. One is something I added and it just bolts to the battery tray, so no biggee. But the other is part of the battery tray, and I need to see if it is going to be in the way of the EFI air box and, if so, cut it off the tray. And, I need to take the battery isolator off since it is in the way of the air box as well. Once that's done I can mount the air box and see what room I have for the battery isolator and place it. Meanwhile I'm looking at the EFI PDB. It has places for 5 relays, and this is how I think I'll use them: ECU Power Relay: This is really a key-on relay and it powers the ECU, O2 sensors, etc. Fuel Pump Relay: This will replace the FPR that's on the firewall Trailer Relay: This will replace the trailer relay that's on the firewall Fog Lights: Power for the Hella fog lights Aux Backup Lights: Power for additional backup lights that I may not want on whenever I'm in reverse, or may want on when in camp. That uses all of the relay spots, but leaves out the relay for the aux battery voltmeter. However, I think I'll wire it to the output of the aux power relay (the old aux battery relay) as I'll probably have aux power on whenever the truck is running, and by doing it that way I can easily monitor the aux battery's voltage even with the key off. What am I missing? Seems like I'm missing a relay. How many are on the firewall?

I'll take a look again tomorrow. Maybe I missed it.

Yep, as Jim said it is fair game. But I've read your post on FTE and don't have any answers. However, there is a schematic from the '95 F-Series EVTM on the site at Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1996 EVTM/Speed Control. That might let you troubleshoot the switch wiring.

Well done, Randy! So is your association with Bill via the Chrysler products? And, I assume you know, he can help you on the Carter? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu above) and we could put you on it if we had a city. Again, welcome!

My $80 was for a Bullnose coolant recovery/windshield washer reservoir. Yes, this thread has morphed. But, don't many of our threads? We just discussed COVID vaccinations on Big Blue's Transformation thread.

Randy - Do me a favor, please, and click on this link and read the guidelines. We hold people to them, and one OLD admin on here is particularly tough, so we don't want you to run afoul of him. Typically new people start an introduction thread there, but we'll let you off the hook on that one - this time.

New Bullnose reservoirs run $80 and up and are rare. So if they are in good shape and can be cleaned then a lot of folks will want to go that way. Your link goes to the same video I posted, but you are saying the first thing he put in, after the rice, is OxyClean? I couldn't catch that. Thanks.

Jim - I've watched several videos and this is the only one that might be using a peroxide. Is this sorta what you mean? Do you know of a better one?

Thanks, Scott. I've never been around a non-headliner truck I guess.

Bill - Let's have the conversation here about the part numbers in the wiring diagrams. The pic below is from the 1986 schematics you sent me, the great big ones. And let's concentrate in the upper right. For each connector there's the connector # from this schematic, like C-460 for the connector for the distributor. But the two below that are the best examples - C-461 & C-466. Both of them say "12A581", which you pointed out is the harness number. But C-461 also has "14303". Is that a part number or ID # for the connector? Or is that the harness number that plugs into 12A581? Or, can you point out the numbers you were talking about?

Thanks, Scott. How can you tell?

Interesting! Learn something every day. Thanks, Staci.

So, you are saying not to use water and a degreaser? Would brake cleaner be the thing to use since it is designed to clean brake parts?

Good idea, David. I'll capture them here before adding them to the Documentation section.