Gary Lewis

F-U100/350 - - w/dual battery - L.H and 1981/86 F250/350 - - diesel-L.H. It is interesting that the MPC says "1981/86 F250/350 - - diesel-L.H." because the diesel didn't come out in the F-Series until '83.

80/ F100/350 w/Captain Chairs E0TZ 9862622-A Passenger-7 1/4" long-bright finish-r/b E7TZ-A

Another nice find! And you are right, that thing is rare. It is for 1984 and later E—F—U100/350 with the 300.

Nice finds, David.

Those wheels look wonderful! Well done!

Sorry, I missed this. If I get the rear t-case seal tomorrow I might be able to start Big Blue up and see if his air flow does the same. Just never noticed that.

Interesting story. I like knowing the "back story" on things.

I've been looking for "coolant recovery hose" and determined that the hose is 5/16", or 8MM, and is frequently also used for vacuum and windshield washer line. I found two of them, both saying they are good to 257 degrees F: Gates 27555:, but Advanced wants $6.49 for 3' of it and I need a bit over 6'. Continental 65106: Amazon wants $16.29 + $11.49 shipping for a 50' roll, but it won't be here for two weeks. Then I found High Temperature Vacuum Silicone Tube 8mm ID x 14mm OD, 10ft with Stainless Worm Gear Hose Clamps and it is good to 374 F. It sells for $16.99, and it'll be here tomorrow.

Gary, Somebody mentioned it on Facebook the other day and it caught my eye. The more I thought about it, I realized that it was true with all of the Burlwood pieces that I have found/bought/sold. Anecdotal evidence, I know...but there seems to be a difference in how they stand up between the two years. It might not apply in AZ or SoCal where the sun burns everything, but as a general rule of themb maybe it is true. I believe it, Cory. Ford may have asked for a change in materials, or may have gone with a different supplier who used different materials. In some ways, the '85 year was an odd duck, and particularly early '85. There was the side trim that showed up on the early '85 brochure but not the late '85 brochure, as shown below. And there was the 4wd F350 that used TTB's, but late in the year got the monobeam D60. And the changeover from hash marks and dots to stripes on some of the wiring. And now the realization that it is the year that got the dash trim that turns purple.

Reminds me of something, but I just can't quite remember what. Big Blue? Ahhh! Maybe that's it! (Not nearly as nice, though.)

Reminds me of something, but I just can't quite remember what.

Interesting! Especially because there’s only one prefix for the part numbers - E5TZ. But that doesn’t mean that they didn’t change supplier or the supplier didn’t change materials. There’s a similar thing on door weatherstripping. All the parts have the same prefix, probably E0TZ, and yet one year the stuff turned hard like a brick. I think it was ‘82, and I have it documented somewhere, but the year before and the stuff from year after was fine. But that year’s weatherstripping was different and got hard hard in a hurry.

Nice truck!

/\ /\ That!

It should work with only the O/LB & BK/O wires connected to the alternator. So go ahead and try the other regulator.

Ya, I was trying to think of another way to do it also. I have a nice diamond cutting wheel for my Dremel, but it will melt a cutting through. Maybe If I run it slow, and leave some burrs that I can file smooth afterwards. LOL! When I used the sabre saw on the behind-the-seat storage unit the plastic melted and then rejoined behind the blade. It took several passes in order to get a clear cut. So I understand the melting bit. My Dremel won't go low enough to not melt the plastic with any cutting tools I have. So on delicate things I go to a hacksaw blade, with a plastic handle on it, and do it by hand. Slowly.

Gary, When you say Xacto knife, you mean you cut the holes all the way through with the knife? That plastic is 1/8" thick and I tried it last night with a brand new blade and it wasn't very easy to cut lol. I used a busted up bezel I have as a sample spare, so I can get this right before I ruin a good one. Yes, but it is tough! Were I to do it again w/o using the mill I'd drill holes in the plastic and use a hacksaw blade to cut out the rough opening. Then use a file to take it down to a nice, clean line. That's the approach I used recently on the opening for the switches in the medium duty bezel. I like it because it is controllable. And slow. Much less chance of making a mistake.

I agree - I don't see how you caused the failure, at least not from overfilling. But you got it fixed.

I agree all the way around. Nice truck, but I don't like the seats. They just don't look like they belong. I've not seen that air conditioning setup either. Has to be dealer air, but an unusual one.

Yes, Gary. Indeed! And thank you, my friend. I took my first real drive yesterday after the taillight fiasco was cleared up. My local shop installed a 2.5" cat back exhaust behind the walker y pipe and cat. It sounds fantastic except for a decent drone on the highway. I'm having a resonator added. However! I cannot overstate how fantastic the truck runs with the Sniper. Now I understand why everyone loves this motor. (And also how badly mine was tuned with the 4 barrel carb on it.) Night and day difference. The throttle response is instant. No regrets, just miles of smiles. And I don't have to worry so much about ethanol in the fuel or altitude changes. A friend of mine owns a dyno and wants to see where the power band is as well as the numbers to compare with Ford published specs. If we run it, I'll post results here. So glad it runs well. That makes it all worthwhile. As for the engine spec's, we have them on the page at Documentation/Engines/300 Six and then the Specifications tab. But you have to scroll down as they didn't put the torque and HP spec's in the dealer facts books until 1982. On the drone, you might let the system take a "set" before adding a resonator. I have ~1000 miles on my system and it changed quite a bit during that time. But most of what happened was that the drone became more focused, right at 65 MPH in OD. So I understand your desire for a resonator. But what one to use might differ with what it settles into.

Excellent!

Ok, now I think I understand. Looks like it'll work very well. Well done, Bill!

Yes, the 351W had a different way of controlling the crossover. Straight out of Chrysler's playbook as the Super Bee's 383 had a similar valve. But the Chryslers had a single valve and the 351W had two. I've never understood the need for the 2nd one.

Let's make that a bit lighter and a bit bigger. Yup, I see it

Jim is right on both counts. No such thing as too many pics. And no sealant. But, on the pics, there are a couple of options. The best approach is to edit your file to make it less than 1 mb in size. That will make your pic as sharp and clear as possible. Or, as Jim said, you can use "Big Size" if your files are large. But then your picture itself won't be very large, as you've see. However, if you want you can adjust the width to make it larger, although if you make it too large it can be blurry. Here's one of your pics and here is the code for it w/o the in front and behind it, and I've made what I've added to it to make it large bold so you can see: nabble_img src="IMG_20210117_122501_4.jpg" border="0"width="100%"/