Gary Lewis

I've watched the first one and will watch the second. Did you see how easily he lifted that 300 head out of there?!?!?!? I don't think I'd have spun the engine until priming the oil system. Can you do that on a 300 by reaching down and getting the oil pump with the distributor out?

Peroxide, Oxy Clean, Bleach, rice, baking soda and a couple more coupled with hot water. No UV. I watched a half dozen vids on YouTube and after doing what they did, think some of it was bunk. I'm certain one guy subbed in a new reservoir. What you see is the absolute best I could get it without pulling the top. I thought about putting it in our new Bosch dishwasher, as I am absolutely amazed at how that thing cleans. I've experimented with it in regards to difficult to clean items placed in different areas of the thing. Incredible! But.....wifey was always present and she'd kill me for putting an automotive part in HER dishwasher! Thanks for the details, John. But UV does seem to be an essential component in whitening, so... As for the dishwasher, which Bosch? We are looking for an 800 series but they've been on backorder for a while. And, the old dishwasher is going out to the shop.

Randy - You are now on the map. On the HTML and Assignment options, there's no need to use them. And you did mention about your computer skills. No worries, you'll be fine. As for Chizzlers, I can see the back corner of my '69 w/a cool Bee emblem from where I sit. There's currently the "little" RB up front, but I'm not sure what will be there when I get it going.

Yeah, I twigged to that last night when I was looking at the '96 EVTM and saw that the inertia switch is after the fuel pump relay and feeds the tank selector switch. That's what got me to thinking about the selector switch, selector relay, etc. So I'll still need to re-wire some as the PDB is wired to power the FPR with a 20a fuse off the main buss and I'll want to retain that. That will require a bit of thinking..... As for the oil pressure switch, I have the one that has both NO and NC contacts. But, I don't know that I'll be using it at all in the future. We shall see.

Sorry, that should have been "Cool, maaaaan."

Yep, and I accepted. Cool!

Looks great, John! That will give you a lot of peace of mind now when you are towing.

Please do, Jim.

Did you use peroxide and OXY Clean? Heat? UV? Tell us more, please.

Thanks, David.

Big Blue's thread hasn't "crapped out". It is just a bit old and slow, like me. But, why worry maaaaaannnn, we are paaaarked! As for cleaning overflow reservoirs, it was a natural extension of the discussion re how to clean a brake master cylinder reservoir.

$58.31 plus tax to be exact. Most expensive was the 4 gauge wire kit at $30.19. Jim - I'll try to capture some of this when I work on the website on Sunday. Thanks for all your work.

Here's the '86 switch from the EVTM, and the extra two pins are tied to the other pins in the harness, paralleling them, surely for current capacity. But, in the light of day I'm questioning moving the selector relay and the trailer relay. Why not leave them where they are in the factory relay holder? They are tucked back out of the way and are working fine. The relay to move is the fuel pump relay as instead of being pulled in by the oil pressure switch the ECU wants to pull it in. And, it wants to monitor that it has pulled in. So it is already wired up in the PDB and I might as well use it.

Good point about the peroxides. I'll stay with 3%.

Both switches are DPDT. But the '85 switch is a 4-pin and the '86 switch is a 6-pin. And the extra 2 pins are used to bring out two contacts that were unused in the '85 switch. The effect is that the '86 switch uses both poles in parallel to power the pump where the '85 switch just uses one pole. So, I'd say the current rating is 1/2 in the '85 switch and it needs the relay. I'll have to look and see what I have, but I don't know that I have an '86 switch. And if I do it'll require some rewiring. Not sure whether that will be easier than just going with the trailer relay mount.

Jim - I'm working my way through your links. #1, the Retro-Brite-Sole-Sauce appears to be the stuff that #3 mentions at the bottom. And while it may work well, getting to the inside of some of the reservoirs may not be easy. #2 has a neat shot of its results. But note that the "40% peroxide" was later said to be 12%. #3 has this statement: The problem was finally cracked in late July 2008 with a mixture of hydrogen peroxide, a small amount of an "Oxy" laundry booster as a catalyst and a UV lamp; we believed that this could do the job in hours instead of days. Proof of this concept was demonstrated on EAB by Tonyyeb from Hull, UK, Chiark from Leeds, UK and myself. The original test I did as proof of concept took two hours, as opposed to up to the five days it took for the original tests at CBM and a1k.org. We were on to something!! #4 says Hydrogen Peroxide – 3% & OXI Clean + UV light. And only a little bit of OXI Clean. #5 used Hydrogen Peroxide @ 12% and UV light from a string of LED's wrapped around the clear container, with aluminum foil reflecting the light back in. And, it got warm, although not hot. So, it looks like hydrogen peroxide and OXI Clean with UV light and heat is the "hot" ticket. Filling up a reservoir with the combo and sitting it in the sun, plus rotating it from time to time, should work. Thanks!

What's that off of, Bill? There' no place for fuses? Just LOTS of relays? Jim - I was counting today and came up with three factory relays under there, but when I got into the house couldn't come up with the third one after fuel pump and trailer. Until I saw this in the '85 EVTM. Yep, that's the third relay. But, as you said, the '86 trucks didn't have the fuel tank relay. Here's the '86 EVTM page. So, I could bypass the relay such that the tank selector switch actually powers the pumps. But, the switch changed for '86, so is it rated for the pump and the '85 switch isn't? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg

Looking good, Bill. Does the hazard switch light up in both the "in" and the "out" positions?

Dan - Please let us know what you use and how it worked. We may need to document this as lots of folks have grungy looking reservoirs.

Thanks, Bill. I'll check it out in the morn.

Yes, 42 is the answer. But, it just seems like there are that many relays on the firewall. However, as it turns out, there's one more than I thought - I forgot the "tank selector relay". Given that, I'm short at least one relay in the PDB. So I may have to use the Trailer Relay cover that puts some relays on the side of the PDB if I want to get them off the firewall.

Those aren't as "modern" looking as I thought they'd be. Glad to see that you like them.

Chad - That's good info. I hope someone can grab it, quickly. But I guess you didn't find your 460 setup?

Let's see, $70 or $250 for one? Let me think about it. And $429 for a pair? Yikes! I'd like black for Big Blue, but there's no way I want to spend that kind of money so I'll paint what I have.

David, I enjoy seeing at these pristine NOS parts you find, even if all I get to do is look at them! Besides...that bezel would cost me $500 bucks, and it just wouldn't seem right to install a $500 bezel in a $500 truck, haha. PS: I just located a decent black 1981 bezel this morning semi-locally for $40, which is much more my speed. I'll have to swap some of the indicator lenses around, but I'm OK with that. Decent 1980 bezels are really hard to come by. These things are now 41 years old, and the ones that are left that didn't go to the crusher are often cracked, broken, or have holes drilled in them. Yes, that's a pretty piece, for sure! And over time those things are only going to get even more expensive. Cory - I do like the $40 cost area.