Gary Lewis

Actually, it appears to hold three relays as it is marked Trailer Tow, Fuel Pump, & EEC Power. That means that the PDB I have is apparently not wired for the fuel pump nor EEC power relays.

Thanks, Bill. And maybe your pics will show how it mounts. As said in the email, the EFI air box bracket has a spot on the side of it to mount a hood labeled Trailer Relays. I don't remember how many relays snap into it, but I'm guessing two.

Yes, you are right! I'd forgotten that. I found an old meter bracket and used it. Sure would seem like for that much money they'd send one.

Bill - That thing is unrecognizable! UGLY! But my 10mm would have eventually looked like that had I not found it as it was in a messy area. John - Is the .000 - .002" clearance to the body or the serrations? And, good tip on staying centered and pressing evenly. Thanks!

I've looked at various charts for nutserts, but found two variables that have me confused: diameter of the nutsert itself and thickness of the material it is being inserted into. This information from Skyshop fueled my concern. Their nutserts have a different profile than the ones I currently have, with theirs having serrations only at the top and mine have them up much of the body. And, they appear to be designed to collapse differently than mine. Not only that, might the thickness of the material of the nutsert be different, causing a different outside diameter? Plus their table has you changing the pilot drill size based on the thickness of the material. So, did you use a chart and, if so, which one? Or, just measure them and drill a hole they'll fit snugly into?

John - Glad to see that the nutsert tool works well. But how do you know what size hole to drill? One review said it doesn't come with a table? I have a drill index with bits by 64ths and then the letter and numbered bits. Well, most of the lettered bits. So usually have the right size. On the video, I'm surprised you think it sounds like an owl. I thought it sounded like the bellow of an angry bull. And what better horn for a Bullnose? Yes, the 800 is the top of the line, but it has some features Janey wants. Last we checked they still weren't available, but the rack on the old GE is rusting out and the wheels are literally falling off, so we'll have to do something soon.

Correct the OE headlight wires run along the inside of the cab and exit on each side and run across the fender. Im partially leaning towards running the wiring across the core support to keep the wires on the short end. On the dual fuses I could do that, but I do have driving lights tied into the highbeam relay trigger so even if a single fuse on headlights low/high were to go out I would still have the driving lights which will have its own fuse as they are a pair of 100w apollo 6" driving lights. I wouldnt lose my lights completely in this case but it wouldnt be hard to add another fuse though for the highbeam I will have well over enough fuses at 15 fuses on the box I will probably end up going with and I only need 7 fuses currently. Fuses I have so far are as follows Fuse 1 : headlight 15A Fuse 2 : Driving Lights 25A Fuse 3 : CB 5A Fuse 4 : CB Amp 15A Fuse 5 : AC Cutout 15A Fuse 6 : AC Clutch 25A Fuse 7 : Fuel Pump 15A If I added in a high beam fuse that would bring me to 8 fuses on the box leaving me 7 fuses for future expansion. Wouldnt be hard to do it like this and it would help isolate the headlight circuit so I would have at least one circuit for driving if a fuse blows. For me what I am thinking of doing is using the right headlight connector as my trigger. I have a male headlight connector that will simply do like my current plug and play relay setup is, just plug into the OE harness and you have your high/low/ground for your relay triggers. I how ever wont be using the ground though I will be tying all the relay grounds together outside of a couple of the relays for the snipers as they apply a ground to trigger those relays. I used male connectors to plug into the harness on the right side to get the trigger signals and put the relays by the battery. Then I ran the wires over the radiator, zip tied to the support, to the left headlight. And the relays are powered by fuses in the PDB.

Is the tap regular? Or does it coincide with the vacuum drop? If it is regular it is probably a lifter or it could be an exhaust leak as they sound very similar. On the vacuum, try moving vacuum hoses while the engine is running and monitor the vacuum. See if some movement causes it to drop, which could indicate a cracked hose. If not, open up the idle mix screws ~1/8 - 1/4 turn and see if the vacuum drop changes.

Very nice. But he's set the starting bid so high, probably to get around paying for a reserve price, that no one has bid in the first 17 hours of the auction.

Have you found this page? Documentation/Fuel Systems/460 Fuel Systems and then the Hot Fuel Handling tab. And the Electrical tab. Bear in mind that the Electrical tab shows the 1985 EVTM pages and is not correct for 1986 trucks - as I recently learned. And I haven't checked to see if the '83 and '84 460's were wired like the '85s. Need to do that. Sorry about the PO. Jim might know what stock jetting is for a 4160, I don't. On the distributor, if you tell Scotty what components you have on your engine he can dial in a new dizzy and send it to you.

Good job!

LOL! I'll take the carabiner version, not the ear rings. And, y'all are going to love this - I dropped a 10 mm socket and had to go looking for it today. Found it waaaaay down in the front corner below the horn, and it took my loooooong magnet tool to retrieve it. Yep, those sockets are skittish. They love to run and hide.

Yes, make sure you check the oil for gas in it. Smell the oil. And, as Jim said, if the level goes up you have a problem! The best thing you can do for the engine is to keep clean oil in it and drive it. Some advocate using kerosene or ATF as the last quart in an oil change, but I wouldn't recommend that. One of our guys, David/1986F150Six, had the sludge come free in his engine and it plugged up the oil pickup in the pan and he lost oil pressure. That wasn't from using kerosene or ATF, but it was a sludged up engine and it all came free suddenly. So you want it to come free over time and be caught by the filter. Use a good quality oil and filter and take long drives to get everything good and warm. And then change the oil as it starts looking dirty.

Yes, that's the best way. That way if you ever drive the truck in cold weather, and I know it can get really cold there, the coolant will help warm up the transmission lube.

I'll certainly come back with a review. Amazon is amazing. I ordered it at 5:45 PM and by 6:00 PM it had shipped. And it is to be here tomorrow. So my hope is that I can set nutserts for everything on Monday and get on to draining the swamp, I mean rerouting the washer wiring, as I've been intending to do for two days. I think I'll use metric nutserts as most of the fasteners in there are metric. But that means when we are out and about on Tuesday, for Janey's 2nd vaccine shot, I'll need to pick up some bolts.

Well done! Looks great and is going to put out more at idle that the original alternator ever could at full tilt.

So, the bolts aren't really seized in the box, but in the frame? After the PB Blaster that Jim suggested I think I'd put a pry bar between the box and the frame and put steady pressure on it while tapping the end of the bolt with a drift. If it doesn't come free then I'd turn to heating the frame as close as you can get to the bolt and then tap the drift. Heat and quench with PB Blaster. Tap. Heat. Pry. Tap. Having said (typed?) that, I'm not sure you can get close enough to the bottom back bolt if it is seized near the box to put heat on it.

John - That is a shame. As Jim suggested, write a review. But I think you will be happy with the Kilmat.

Sounds like those tires would work out well.

Not sure I understand. You asked how to get the pump to run, but isn't it a mechanical pump? I didn't think the electric pumps were used in 1980. What am I missing? If it is running better each day then maybe you just need to drive it more? Change the oil and maybe it'll clean up?

Yippee! Glad it is working. You are going to love having strong output at idle. Do the belts squeal on startup? Or, did you get the LRC regulator?

And on a slightly different subject, I got concerned by the way I'd planned to mount things like the air box and battery isolator to the driver's fender. Ford used sheet metal screws and I was planning to use 1/4-20 screws instead because I need long screws to go through the standoffs and don't have sheet metal screws that long. So I've tapped the fender 1/4-20. But, as I think about it, I'm not sure that a truck planned to go offroading should rely on such "thin" threads. So, I'm going to try nutserts again, and ordered this tool today - that's supposed to be delivered tomorrow: WETOLS 14" Rivet Nut Tool, Hand Rivet Nut Tool with 7 Metric & Inch Mandrels M6 M8 M10, 1/4-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16, 70pcs Rivnuts and Blow Carry Case. Perhaps I didn't properly seat the ones I tried before. This one has 2,187 ratings, and from those it has a 4.5 star rating. I sure hope it works.

Ok, here are Bill's schematics for how he did the trailer wiring. Thanks, Bill! (Note: Bill sent a revised #1 drawing, which has now replaced the first one.)

And, with that being done I turned to the battery isolator. I made a bracket/plate to cover a hole on the fender back of where the rear bolt of the EFI air box bracket bolts in. And I removed the clip for the lug wrench and used that hole to secure the back of the plate as well as the back of the isolator. Then I drilled and tapped the plate 1/4-20 to take a bolt to hold the front of the isolator.But, the red arrow shows the yellow wire from the battery on the other side, and it is stretched a bit. So I need to move the isolator forward a bit and see what slack I have on the other side in the wire.

Just saw this....no I have a double v belt pulley. My install is complete with exception of the yellow and green wires coming from the alternator. I logged on to figure out the "fat yellow wire" and the "don't melt your dash harness and start a fire with the ammeter" stuff. Trying to sort it out without asking questions. Seems like I should be smart enough to look at the Documentation page and this thread and be done already but.... I'm not done yet. I almost cut out the OEM plug on the truck harness side, not the alternator side. So, what's the question, Ty?