Gary Lewis

Sorry guys. I forgot the pic. Here 'tis: John - As I'm looking at the 2G wiring for you I need to know if you are keeping the shunt or replacing it and where you want to monitor voltage. There's no problem keeping the shunt if you aren't adding high-current devices in the cab. The shunt is a smaller wire than the rest of the harness and there's a small voltage drop across it, which is what the ammeter measures. So leaving the shunt means your lights won't be quite as bright nor your blower run quite as fast as they would if it was removed, but I doubt you'll see/hear/feel the difference. And if you have a headlight relay then there will be no difference for the headlights with or without the shunt. And you said you are getting a voltmeter. Do you want to monitor battery voltage or voltage in the cab? Monitoring battery voltage will require a relay but will give a better picture of the alternator's output. Cab voltage will be easier as you can use the LG/R wire coming from the ignition switch and not have to have a relay. But the voltage will change some as you bring on more electrical load in the cab due to loss in the wiring (including the shunt if you keep it), connectors, and ignition switch. I'll eventually do schematics for all of the variations, but I'd like to start with whatever scenario you are planning to use.

I'm not getting together with anyone at the moment. May in about a month as I get my 2nd vaccine shot in a week and it takes another two weeks to kick in. Anyway, have at the offroad park!

$2800 for that? I'd pay that in a heartbeat for a Bronco in that shape, but don't need another pickup - nor hole in my head. What is the Scripture? Matthew 16 some place?

Really up to you, Nick. I like to document what I've done so I can keep track as well as see my progress. By the way, you did see this post? http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Look-What-I-Got-Thanks-Nick-td85996.html

Love the bench, Nick. Well done! And the T is coming along nicely. Do you have a thread on it? you welcome to do so if you want.

What is the diameter, and how does that compare to a stock wheel? Maybe you can get a Grant wheel the same diameter as stock?

Nice truck. Should have plenty of power and ought to be the EEC-V EFI system, meaning that the tuning will not have upset the speed density system like it probably would have on an earlier system.

Good review, Ty. Well done. But while it looks good, that last comment about the rim blocking the speedo is a killer for me. Thanks for pointing that out.

I hope it pans out well. Having a good shop you can rely on would be very helpful. On the bumper, the best approach I can think of would be to have a comealong or winch that went between a strap around the outboard end of the bumper and an immovable object. Put force on it to pull the bumper forward and hit the crease with a plastic-faced deadblow hammer to take it down on top and up on bottom.

Very nice looking truck.

You are on the map.

There's no hurry, Bill. I won't be doing this until late this year. But, it is feeling good to work through some of the issues, like placement of the ECU, placement of the EFI PDB, getting the yellow wire properly routed, etc. There is light at the end of the tunnel.

Bill - Thanks for pointing out which signals won't need to go through the connector. I've noted that in the spreadsheet. So I agree that the connector will be plenty big enough. Could you get me some dimensions so I can see if it'll fit in the opening? As for what I did today, I think I finally drained the swamp and dispatched most of the alligators. I got the big yellow wire from the PDB on the passenger's side to the PDB or battery isolator on the driver's side re-routed. The dummy that installed it last time () ran it out the back of the passenger's side PDB and over to the fender, then forward to the radiator support and across. Instead, I ran it from the front of the PDB forward to the radiator support and across. Now I have way more than enough wire to put the battery isolator or driver's-side PDB basically anywhere I want it. And I used a spare PDB mount to determine where it might go, and it looks like it'll fit nicely right about where the DS-II ignition modules have been. So since I don't want to go through the hassle of relocating the ignition modules in order to get the PDB in, I'm going to wait to mount the PDB until next Fall when I start the EEC-V installation. So tomorrow I hope to mount the battery isolator and start making the cables.

Bummer! Glad you walked away and that the damage is so slight. Could have been a lot worse. Hope the engine repair goes as easily as they said.

Sorry guys. I forgot the pic. Here 'tis:

Just came across this post and thats what I was looking at, it looks like one can simply unplug C610 toss it and then make two connections at the cab side of C610 for the key hot and the main power wire which is where the shunt was originally at. That is what I am thinking of doing on my truck after seeing this post. Just need to see if one can buy the C610 connector as sure one could use regular spades I personally rather use a connector that I can put the spades into and have a more secure OE looking connection. I know my Ammeter doesnt currently work anyways so for me I will just toss all the wiring in a box to put up in storage from the alternator to the regulator and make my two wire hook up and then run a single new dedicated charge wire for my 3G. Then one day I hope to get the retro series of Dakota Digital dash cluster and I can wire in under the hood for the volt gauge. Rusty & Jim - I'm sorry, but I'm dense. I don't see the reason for leaving half of C610. Either take both sides or leave both sides of the connector. But why leave half of it? I think we should recommend leaving both sides, but cut the alternator side wires as shown in the pic below. That let's you go back to a 1G or 2G alternator if you decide to do so for some reason in the future. And it lets you do your soldering on the bench instead of in the truck. Here's where I'd cut: Green Zip Tie: Cut the R/O and Y/LG wires that go to the ammeter at the green zip tie. If you want a voltmeter then tie your relay in there. If you want to measure voltage at the ignition switch, like Scott did, use the LG/R wire to one of the wires and ground the other one. Blue Zip Tie: Cut the big Yellow wire and the Y/LG wires where the blue zip tie is. That gives you as much of each wire as possible, and maybe they'll be long enough to go to the megafuse and 3G harness, respectively, without splicing in. Again, I am dense so please 'splain to me why it seems you are saying to keep half of C610. Did I misunderstand?

Bill - Sorry I missed this last night. On the engine harness, I have the '96 CA-spec 460 harness so I'm good there. But on the Lincoln Continental 40 way connectors, my plans for the wires to the ECU are shown below. And that seems to say that I need 43 connections. But that includes 5 regular grounds and 1 case ground. So, maybe I could cut that down to 2 grounds and 1 case ground = 40 pins? So, can you measure those connectors? Maybe I could make a plate that is attached to the firewall to cover the hole and have one of those connectors in the middle? Also, are the wires straight into the outside connector or is there a 90?

Removing the ads and all the extras would be a tedious chore. I'd have to learn/re-learn HTML to figure out what each of the over 2000 lines of coding is doing and which I can change or delete. On the access via the 2nd approach, meaning Documentation/Literature/Miscellaneous Literature/Car & Driver 1980 Bronco Test, try refreshing your browser's page and then look.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd be happy to add you if we had a city or zip. Gotta see some pics. As you'll see in my signature, I have a truck I call Big Blue - because it is big and blue. It is an F350 wanna be, and with the D60/SD springs, and RSK it sits up high, but I'm curious how that compares to yours.

I misunderstood. You said: Somehow I was thinking that we needed both pages in one view, but if we can assume that the firewall grommet is the break between pages 17 and 18 of the 1985 EVTM then we'd have something we could put on each page. Is that a reasonable assumption? Is there any way you can confirm that?

That is exactly how this feels, like I'm going to tear something up. I think there's some kind of retainer under the center cap holding it together. If it were a junk alternator I'd get after it but as is, think I'll just put it back together. I got the hole tapped and the front case painted. Good enough! That looks like the bearing is hung up. It rotates, but mine didn't. So your symptoms are just right for the bearing not letting go in the case or off the shaft. Turn it over and try to pull the armature out of the back. Or, lift it the way it shows in the video and tap the center of the back, but with a way to catch the armature.

Interesting, Scott. Would it be helpful to put those on here?

There are only a few things that can hold it on, with the rear bearing being one that frequently causes problems. But Big Blue's rear case felt like it was held on with some wires. I could move it a bit and then it would stop. I pried on things hoping it would come apart, but it just felt like I was going to tear something up so I stopped. Good luck!

When I was researching this for drill size, I noted tolerances up to .015" over the O.D. size of the nutsert. I'm good with drilling equal to or just a little over (.002"). Good idea on the anti-seize! A twist drill doesn't leave a round hole, and from what I remember of shop class the thinner the material being drilled the more triangular the hole. So my thinking has been that by using the round file, rasp actually, I'm making the hole more round and improving the grip. Having said that, if the hole was triangular and the nutsert filled in the corners of the triangle then there might be even more grip.

John - It is supposed to come apart on the rear just like it did on the front. But, the one on Big Blue would not come apart at all, so I left it. This video shows one coming apart, and while I'm starting it at that point, you can scroll back to see more if you want. But on my alternator the aluminum of the case had apparently mated with the steel such that it wasn't going to budge.