Gary Lewis

I bought the big brother to that one, a Champion 4-row. When you get yours check the neck carefully where the cap seals as mine was dinged there and I had to file it out. And, if you don't replace the petcock make sure to check that it is installed correctly. Mine wasn't tight in the radiator and it leaked. But, those are tapered pipe threads and you can break the radiator if you tighten it too much, so put some sealant on it and snug it up good.

Welcome. Maybe be an easier fix that finding an electrical problem. And, by the way, the piece breaks because people hoist themselves into the truck via the steering wheel. Which is one reason I went with a non-tilt column on Big Blue. He's tall enough I want to be able to use the steering wheel as my hand hold, and am sure whomever drives it will want to do the same. Some say the repair piece is better and won't break in future, but I wasn't willing to give it a chance.

Do you like the one from Amazon? I'm a couple of years from changing the coolant, but should go ahead and get that petcock so I'll be ready when the time comes.

Check out Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns. There's a discussion there about the problem and links to how to fix it.

Looking good, Staci. I don't have any experience with www.out of sight audio.com, but have looked at their stuff. We have a member, or actually a couple of members, George and Nick, that are planning to mod the original radios and add some features. Haven't heard from them of late, but if they get it going it might be of interest to you. It is to me.

Thanks for the explanation, Bill. But unless I seriously mistaken that's not going to fit in that opening. I'm now thinking I'll be better off finding the grommet, running my wires through it, and soldering them to the pigtail that's on the EEC's connector. Again, thanks for getting the dimensions for me.

Welcome! Glad you joined. What part of Saskatchewan? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city. I'll bet an F100 shortbed w/a 460 will go rather quickly. Hope you'll start a thread about it, inc pics.

Welcome! Glad it got you going.

Just to clarify but Gary is referring to the inside ones that go on the plastic door panel. See detail here Oops. Thanks, Scott.

Welcome! Yes, if you got them for the later doors they won't fit correctly. These parts aren't expensive so I'd recommend getting the right ones if you can. And I recommend installing them with pop rivets. So, tell us about yourself? Like, where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could put you on it if we had a city or a ZIP. And, tell us about your truck. In fact, why not put the pertinent details in a signature (Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's) so we won't have to ask or guess when we answer questions.

Jamie - I prefer to think of it as "reading the mail" rather than "creeping". Anyway, yes you should be seeing battery voltage on the red/light blue wire at the starter relay when the key is turned to Start. What I did was to put a light on that wire and to ground and turned the key to Start - obviously with the wire off the relay. And then I started moving wires around, hoping to find the light to change since from time to time it wouldn't start. I never found a problem, but it was apparently the infamous tilt-wheel problem. So, do you have a tilt wheel?

That's really important info to know, Scott. Thanks! So Dex-Cool is a no-no.

As for asking my kids, I guess that's a good idea. We hope to get to go see them in March, so that's a good conversation to have with them face-to-face. But that's really a discussion to have about Dad's truck as I think I've painted myself into a corner on Big Blue. With the EFI intake not really being designed for having fuel in it I think I need to continue with the plan to go with the EEC-V EFI. And, I'm really not that far from having it done. The fuel system is ready, and the electrical system is getting there.

As for what I did today, I got the bracket to hold the battery isolator made and installed. Turned out that the way I have it planned this bracket will work for now and when I go EFI I'll have to add a bracket to the air box bracket. But here's a shot of everything back together, and tomorrow I can start on the cables: And here are a couple of shots of the bracket:

I'm not sure I follow what you are saying. But, I think I understood 'the skirt on the outer portion is 2" X 2.33"' to mean that it won't fit in the ~1" wide by ~2 1/2" tall opening in the firewall. Right? And thanks for the tips on the wiring and relays.

Thanks, but I just got a note from the guy saying he thinks he can get it done in the next couple of days, and since I contracted with him for the job I need to see it through. Maybe as we go forward?

Glad the t-case and tranny worked out so well. On the speedo cable, I just went through this on Big Blue. Couldn't find the traditional graphite lube specifically for speedo cables, so I bought two different dry lubes, as outlined here. Seems to have worked out very well.

I know very little about all this. But Nabble is a language, as explained briefly . I've contracted with a gentleman that used to work for the outfit called Nabble, and he has gotten the open-source version of Nabble running on AWS servers for us. The thing keeping us from going live is that email notifications aren't working, We initially started on AWS EC2 servers and that was running into ~$90/month. So we moved to Lightsail and have the cost down to ~$30/mo. Our response time on the Nabble servers is getting worse steadily, so we need to move ASAP. Hopefully the email issue will be sorted soon.

Ha! If it was a Bronco I’d be suspicious!

Do you know about Nabble? That's the code we are running.

And it looks like someone stole it! It’s gone. Wasn't me!

See the Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum link at the top and bottom of the page? Click that and it will take you to the main forum. As for posting pics, see the how-to on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's in the menu.

Good question, Rob! I've not included them in this discussion. Perhaps I should?

The one-wire dizzy may seem the easiest, but I don't know if you can get one with the right advance curve in it. Maybe, but I don't know for sure. And the right advance curve is necessary as w/o EGR you need a completely different curve than one with EGR. I suggest you contact Scotty at Parkland Performance and tell him what you have in your engine. He can curve a dizzy to meet your needs and send you a brand new distributor set up for your situation. However, that means you need to source the right harness, and used ones are getting harder to find. I think Painless makes a harness, and while it is pricey it'll work nicely. Then you need the ignition module. As for removing the ECM, the wiring to it is completely separate from the rest of the truck, so you can follow the wires to the sending units on the ends and remove them. Then pull the wires out and remove the ECM.

Keep us informed as to how it works as many of us have similar problems.