Gary Lewis

The statement regarding the rear springs confuses me, as there are no "light" F350 springs, they would all be as heavy if not heavier than the F250 HD springs. With that being said, my F250 LD springs only have four leaves total, including the overload. The F250HD springs (8600 GVWR) I put in the truck have five leaves including the overload. So if you're running five leaves with overload, you're still running HD springs. What you aren't running any longer is somebody's home-made "bastard" pack. Dane - Thanks! Shaun - My mistake. What I know is that with spring code K I'm supposed to have E3TZ 5560-T rear springs. And I've assumed that is what was on it. But you are saying that the pack that was on there with 7 leaves + overload isn't that one? That might explain the horrible ride it had. Boy, did pulling the extra two leaves out make a huge difference! Does that make sense to you?

When I was trying to decide between the 1356 and 208 for Dad's truck I talked to a local 4WD specialist and he said there's so little difference in the transfer cases that it doesn't matter, much, which you pick. But when I pushed him he said if it was for his "toy" he'd pick the 1356. Having said that, the 1356 has a problem where the oil pump's arm can sometimes cause a serious problem. Ask Jim. So, if you are rebuilding one you need to have a mod made.

Well done, Ty! That should make a big difference in the sound.

They will swap. I put a 1356 on Dad's truck where a 208 was originally. You might have to make some changes on the linkage, and you might have to change output yokes if it was off an F350, but the transfer case will bolt right on. As will a 1345 if thats what it is.

We had a very good day with Big Blue today - 176 miles, all of which was on the front tank and it didn't run out. So, maybe north of 11 MPG and that was at 65 to 70 MPH - basically all of which was on speed control. And, speaking of the speed control, it works well. A little too aggressive for my tastes as it holds the speed right on the set point, but so does Blue's speed control. Still, it is quite acceptable and made today's trip much easier. We did have two "minor" problems. First, when I started the truck there was a metallic noise as if I'd left a wrench or a battery cable under the hood and it got hit by the fan. It didn't really catch and sorta kicked back, so I popped the hood and checked things over but couldn't find anything. I tried it again and it started perfectly, as it did the rest of the day. I'm guessing that one of the many 8mm bolts I had laying on top of the radiator got missed when I put things away. And while I drove the truck yesterday, maybe it was hiding and came out over night but got in the wrong spot and hit the fan. But I sure can't find it. The other problem was that I don't have quite enough choke dialed in. I'd left the truck outside for the night as it was leaking gas from the tank and I didn't want the fumes in the shop. Heretofore the truck has always spent the night in the shop, but apparently last night it cold enough that while it started fine initially the choke came off too soon and it died as we were leaving the neighborhood. At that point you wonder "Is it lean or rich?" But it surely had to be rich so I pumped it and it started - reluctantly. Obviously I need to dial in a bit more choke. But, as said, it was a very good day. We are both quite pleased with the suspension changes, both the change to SD springs with the RSK in front as well as the removal of two leaves in the rear springs, making them the equivalent to the lighter F250/350 springs instead of the HD ones. It is still a truck, meaning that you get tossed about a bit, but it doesn't shake your teeth out. And we said several times today that "This will be great on the trip to Colorado." And then, when we got home I found three packages waiting for me, as shown below: The 85/86 EFI grommet from Scott. Thanks!!!! The stud extenders so I can get all of the magnalugs on the battery isolator. The 1" body plugs. These say "Caplugs" and "BPF-25MM" and are a perfect fit into the PCV hole in the EFI air box bottom. The "slot" on them appears to be the same size as the wall of the air box, so they seal very nicely, and with that problem solved I'll swap the IV bottom in to replace the V bottom. Progress!

Yes, now including a scan for a decent used power supply in my morning rounds through fb marketplace lol. L In the interim you could put a pot from your battery to the voltmeter and slowly turn the pot up and record the voltage shown on your DVM at the voltmeter when it moves.

Changing out the magnet and getting it to rest on the left is a big step. Now if you can map out what voltage/current it takes to make it hit the various marks you can figure out what resistance to put in the circuit. But a variable power supply is ideal for that. I found mine on Craigslist years ago for $35 and have used it extensively. The ability to bring the voltage up slowly from 0 is a huge help.

The plastic "sliders" in the linkage inside the transfer case wear out and fall or break off. Then it doesn't shift correctly, if at all. The parts are cheap, but the t-case has to come apart to replace them.

Hadn't thought about needing it off. Any chance of using a receiver hitch as part of the support?

Chad - Could you tap the frame and engine crossmember and use them as the nut? At least you'd have something in there holding those two in alignment.

That looks great, Nick. But how does it attach to the truck? That's a lot of weight, so I know it'll be attached solidly.

Yes, there will be other things, for sure. Thanks again.

If I remember correctly the dipstick goes into the pan on the driver's side and they are known to leak. So certainly have the shop do it.

Shows what little I know. Thanks for correcting me. And, to then answer the previous question, the distributor needs to have a vacuum connection. If it doesn't it isn't a DS-II dizzy and you'll need to replace it.

Rusty would be right at home on a lift. And, by the way, my lift is the best $2K I've spent. Anyway, take your time and do it the way you want it done. Preaching to the choir hear, but no shortcuts or you may have to go back.

Gary, Best sellers I'm not 100% sure, but highest prices go to trucks with low miles, original paint, and in stock condition. For a while there were all these really nice trucks showing up for sale in the PNW...beautiful F250 4x4's and some nice F150's too, but the market has been really quiet the last while...maybe due to Covid or the economy? I really don't know. I do know that there were a few different sellers moving a lot of trucks in the PNW...one guy in Idaho, a couple in Washington, etc...and they would have a truck a month on Ebay...those $10k-up trucks that would now probably sell for $20k. As for modification vs. value, I think it really depends and has to go on a case by case basis. Some heavily modified trucks sit for sale literally for years. Tasteful and useful mods are better sellers....but that's subjective, I guess. In my local market, I am under water on my 84 Flareside by quite a bit, but hopefully that differential will decrease the longer I hang on to it...lol. "Tasteful and useful mods." A D60 up front? SD springs & RSK? OX locker? 3G? ZF5? EFI? Winch?

Scott - You've already mailed the firewall grommet? Thanks! But I was thinking we might pick it up if/when we bring the speed control tester back. But, that's iffy. But thank you a BUNCH! I think this thing is going to come together nicely with a lot of help from my friends!

Cory - Are the best-sellers those which aren't modified? Or does that change things?

Interesting. When I searched for "dorman 5042081" I get results for 42098.

Thanks, Jim. I Googled that Dorman number and came up with this at Amazon. The body plugs I ordered should be here tomorrow and I'll check to see if one of those is going to seal it. If not, I'll order one of those plugs.

I don't know where you can find one, although you may be able to find one if you had the part number and did some searching online. If you go to Documentation/Driveline/Clutches & Linkage and then the Clutch Release Lever tab you'll see the part numbers for that lever. Note that the only one that fits is for 1983 trucks, so you are looking for a needle in a hay stack! Good luck!

There's a slot in the hole. Do you think one of them would seal that?

Well done, Vic!

1" plugs for a master cylinder? Anyway, that is good to know. Just filled the truck up for tomorrow's trip and found a minor problem - the gasket where the pump/sending unit meets the front tank leaks. Apparently I'd not filled it up that much before, but I got it FULL today and it leaked. And, I snapped a couple of pics to show its new stance:

There is a resistor in the wiring harness in the cab, so if you are using the stock connectors under the hood you won't need to add a resistor. But if you are creating your own wiring you probably will need to add one. As for the coil, yes you should be able to use the original coil. I don't think any of the 351's got TFI so you should be good.