Gary Lewis

No prob, Jim. It was a good question. I ordered some 1" body plugs, that are supposedly rubber. I want rubber as that will seal better, but I'll put it in with RTV anyway, just to make sure.

Thanks, Bill. Looks like I'm thinking correctly.

I think the EEC-V system takes the filtered air off the bottom of the hose after the MAF sensor, where the hose splits into two for the throttle body, as shown below. And I'd guess that the reason is so the MAF sensor sees all the air flow. I have all of the EEC-V intake hoses and they are very different to the EEC-IV stuff. The IV air box top has two openings where the V has one opening with studs for the MAF sensor. So I want to use the EEC-V plumbing as it should "bolt" in.

Welcome! Glad it is helping. My voltmeter rests to the left just like the other gauges when off. So if you can get it to rest there then the resistor trick should work very well. There are plenty of 40 ohm potentiometers available, some that have 22 turns, which would you let you dial any ammeter in so the top reading would be what you want.

Thanks, Jim. I've been rethinking my aversion to using the EEC-IV air box bottom and cannot find a good reason for not doing so. From what I can tell there's only one difference, and that's to do with the PCV filter hole. Below are pics with and without the PCV fitting, and all I'd have to do is to plug that hole. I have two of those box bottoms and they have good tabs, so it seems like I should find a plug for the 1" hole and be done with it.

I saw no external mods on my ammeter converted to a voltmeter. As for what it would take, I think you could do it with a resistor in series - except that the ammeter's needle rests in the middle of the scale. But if there's an easy way to make it rest at that left edge then the resistor trick should work. I did some testing on four ammeters and recorded the results on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ammeter. But here are the results. As you can see, it only takes about .25v to make it go full scale, assuming starting at the left edge. If you assume the meter is a .17 ohm resistor and put it in series with an 18 ohm resistor the combination will pull .79a at 14.4 volts. And the drop across the meter's .17 ohm will be .135v, which is about right to take the thing to half scale. Please let us know what you find!

Thanks, Jim. Yes, I did discover after Bill's post that it is the G-flex, and then asked a question about how best to use it. The split in the tab allows the insert to turn. I fixed that temporarily with hot melt run on the insert before installing it. But I know that someone down the line is going to tighten that too much and cause the insert to spin. So it seems to me that a better approach than just gluing the insert in with G-flex is to install the insert in a flat piece and glue that piece to the bottom of the tab. And the question becomes what type of material? I can easily cut a piece of the stainless that I used to make the bracket for the isolator, and that will have the benefit of not rusting. Or, I could cut the ear off of one of the other bottom air boxes I have and use it. But the metal piece seems best since G-flex says that it "bonds tenaciously to plastics, glass, masonry, metals, and fiberglass", and that approach would ensure the insert won't turn and not destroy another box bottom. Thoughts?

Glad it worked for you. The only suggestion I have beyond what you've done regards the delay module. Those are slightly delicate and shouldn't be knocked around. However, if by "dangling" you mean that you dangled it via a zip tie, then well done!

Bill - The bottom half on the dual hose 460 units I have has a port that looks perfect for the fresh air hose for the PVC, just like on the side of a carb-style air cleaner. So it would be easy to plug that and use one of those - of which I have two. But I'd like to repair this one if it is easy enough. And, I just found that the adhesive I have is WEST SYSTEM 655k G/Flex Epoxy Adhesive Repair Kit. And the writeup says, among other things: REPAIR SPLITS, CRACKS and small holes in plastic canoes, kayaks and other small boats made from HDPE, LDPE, ABS, PVC or polycarbonate plastic with the contents of this kit. GREATER FLEXIBILITY than traditional epoxies or polyester resins. Yet it is much stiffer than adhesive sealants. With a modulus of elasticity of 150,000 PSI, this epoxy bonds tenaciously to plastics, glass, masonry, metals, and fiberglass. Makes structural bonds that can absorb the stress of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration. So, I'm wondering about cutting a piece of metal to the size and shape of the tab and placing the serrated nut in it, then using the G/Flex to glue it to the bottom of the existing tab, pulling them together with a bolt in the serrated nut. That would surely put some of the epoxy into the crack. Or, I could cut a tab off of a dual-hose base and use it instead of a piece of metal. But I prefer the piece of metal approach as it sounds stronger. Thoughts, y'all?

I wish I knew. Here's all I can find in the MPC re the Bronco's tailgate, but I'll keep looking.

Congrat's, Angelo!

Jim - I don't have any idea what the air box is made of. However, I have two other bases, both EEC-IV's, and from what I can tell the only difference in the base is that there's an extra fitting in the side of the IV's, probably for filtered air for the PVC. So, worst case is that I could use one of them if the EEC-V base isn't usable. But, I'm willing to sacrifice one of them to see what works on the plastic. So, what would you recommend? What would I use to "solvent weld" it? Also, I do have some of the adhesive you've recommended for plastic. The stuff that advertises that they glued a canoe back together, although I don't remember what that is. If it works on plastic and metal I could use it to glue a piece of metal to the bottom of the tab, and have a nutsert set in the piece of metal. We aren't talking about a lot of force as it just holds the lid of the air box to the base, but I would like to reinforce it at some point to prevent further damage.

Gary, I think the cleanliness makes a big difference. I really scrubbed these things and used hottest water I could handle. After they dried I wiped the smooth surfaces down with brake cleaner on a rag. The brake cleaner I use, O'Reilly's house brand, will soften many plastics. Glad yours didn't. On plastics I use Dawn first, and then SEM soap. And scrub with a toothbrush.

Interesting! I'll check to see what I have in the morning.

Everything looks wonderful Cory, save for your thumb. Seriously though, they do look great. And you got the paint to cooperate on everything. The key was cleanliness?

It is easier for me to just search my MPC for the part number than to go to the documentation.

And the envelope says: 80/ E-F350 — 8 cyl. 460-w/in tank electric fuel pump EOTZ 9N176-B Has .090 dia. return orifice-also used as a field fix for units experiencing hot fuel problems #E37E 9N176-AB

I'll have to check, but I think I have a really good bumper. But apparently I'm too late on this one.

SOLD!

It sounds like you did the adjustment correctly on the wheel bearings, and I doubt new bearings are bad. But I'd still jack it up and see if you can get things to wiggle. Maybe you didn't get the new seats fully pressed in? If so they sometimes go ahead and seat, so then the bearings will be loose.

Those are really hard to find. Fits 1980 through at least 1989 F150 4x4's.

Currently at $7K and 4 days left. Nice truck, but .....

Nice, but fairly expensive for what I've seen.

Good plan. Drive it and see what you think. And, I agree that good parts with poor instructions is much better than poor parts with good instructions. So it appears you've chosen wisely.

That was QUICK!