Gary Lewis

You could look for a number on the hose. BUT, there's something you need to understand about Ford parts - any number you find on a part is not the part number. Yep. In the mid-1960's Ford had a "Better Idea" and quit placing part numbers on parts. Instead the number is an ID or "engineering" number. And I have a cross reference with hundreds of thousands of numbers that supposedly lets me connect the two. So if you can find a number on your hose or filler neck maybe I can cross-ref it.

Yep, we have a map and you are on it: Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. And, I see you are close to Matt. We used to shop in Watford as Moor Park has very little. But I'm sure it has changed a lot since then. Also, how 'bout creating a signature? Instructions are in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. And, info on posting pics is in there as well. If you include your name and info about the truck it'll be easier for us to give you accurate answers/suggestions.

Near Cambridge? We can put you on the map wherever you'd like. Your friend is on the tarmac at Stanstead. We just don't get too precise as we don't want any surprise visitors. And, btw, Moor Park is on the "proper" side of Watford. We lived there pretty much when these trucks were new.

Good find. They can be painted, as I did mine with SEM. And, by the way, the full kick panels have the cut line on them so you can cut yours down to use with the vents.

I've seen that movie, and I thought I caught a glimpse of a Bullnose!

Welcome! Glad you joined. Matt was just telling me about you and your truck. He's going to hit you with this: Documentation/Literature/1985 Literature/Body Builder's Layout Book. What part of the UK are you in? Used to live in Moor Park, and I'm betting you don't know where it is. The penultimate stop on the Metropolitan line. As for the frame, start reading my tome here. Not sure how far your frame is out, but I straightened mine. And let's get those pics in here where people can enjoy them:

Staci - You are on the map. Looks like there are several of you in that area.

Welcome! Do you go by CJ? That's a beautiful truck! I hope to see more pics of it in future. Re the seat, look at the page at Documentation/Interior/Seat Interchangeability. To put the later seat in you'll need the seat base discussed there, and then it'll bolt in. Would you like to be on our map? Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. We'll be happy to add you.

The vapors the cannister is to catch are the ones from evaporating fuel over the time between fillups. But when you fill the tank the air in the tank that is pushed out by the incoming gas just goes into the atmosphere in most places, although some places have a recovery hood on the nozzle to capture it. See if this post helps: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p69427.html. Big Blue had the later style hose going into a Bullnose tank and it didn't work well at all. So I'm not sure it'll work with you just changing out the filler hose.

Yes, $21.50 is excellent. But with 4 days left in the bidding.... What do you guess, over $100?

Your plan to test is a good one, but do take the cap off the tank. However, I am sure you are going to find that with the hose off the tank still has to be filled slowly. I say that because Big Blue didn't have a vapor cannister and it was painfully slow to fill. The issue usually has to do with the way that Ford ran the vent hose inside the fill hose. In the Bullnose years the gas went down the center and the air vented up around the central hose. But in the Bricknose and later trucks the gas goes down around the central hose and air vents up the middle. That works much better. You can use the $50 to buy the later filler neck and hoses and that should solve the problem. But don't take my word for it, see what others say.

Jim is right on all points. As for the vacuum gauge, it really won't show that you have a vacuum. Typically a vacuum leak makes the RPM go up and that makes the vacuum reading go up. But having the fast idle cam still on due to the choke being on or the linkage stuck can up the idle as well. Yes, you should have a 2150 so you can read that documentation if you haven't. And, you are now on the map.

And part numbers/sources?

Excellent!

I've not see anyone with that harness new. Some, like Painless, have some of the other harnii, like DS-II ignition wiring, but I don't think anyone has the harness you need. If it was me and I couldn't find an acceptable one from the salvage I'd make one from my existing harness. There are tools that will let you remove the pins from the connectors, and in most cases you can get new pins. Or you can un-crimp an existing pin, remove the wire, put a new wire in, and crimp and then solder it. And if you are sparing with the solder you can get the pin back in the connector.

Good point, Bill. And it is REALLY hard to tell some of the metric connections from the SAE connections. Some of them are almost the same and the only way I've been able to tell is to use a thread pitch gauge and dial indicator. So, be really careful as the later pump is likely to have metric fittings.

Bill - I think we need to create a page with your pics and explanations. Yes?

But, did it fix the problem??????

Well, I'm not sure what to call you. "Red" probably applies to the truck. But that's all I have at the moment. So, maybe you could create a signature that not only includes info about your truck but also includes your name? Info on how to do that is in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. Yes, you were to post first in the New Members Start Here folder as that will give you the best chance of having seen our guidelines. And since we hold people to them it is important that you have a chance to see them and aren't blind-sided. But, if you can assure us you've seen them then we'll overlook the issue. But while we are doing the new-member thing, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we knew your city or zip. Now for the carb. Yes, you can rap on it, but unless it is a Stromberg 97 it isn't likely that'll work. But I don't think it is a stuck float/needle. I think you may have a vacuum leak. Too much fuel usually causes the engine to bog down rather than running faster at idle. But a vacuum leak almost always causes a high idle. If you happen to have a 300 six then I'd guess the carb-to-manifold nuts have worked loose. If not, then you may well have a cracked or loose vacuum line. So, tell us more, please.

Please let us know how it works out.

OK, I know this is old. But today I was watching a YouTube video where a guy was using the GPS on his phone to find someone who was stuck in the mountains. He had GPS coordinates from the other guy's phone to guide him. Turns out that the GPS coordinates of where the other guy was stuck was about 5 miles from where he really was. And his own phone/gps lost signal for quite a while so he was hunting blind. Like I said before, I don't have a cell phone, and I don't know how good or bad they are as a GPS. But if they rely on having a cell phone signal to work, and can be off by 5 miles if they have a bad signal, that's not what I want in a GPS. Which of course is a moot point because I have 4 different GPS units and no cell phone. But it's something to think about. It IS something to think about. My brother has a Garmin GPS unit and we'll probably use it for the trip this summer. But cell phones have their own GPS receivers and my experience last fall with my iPhone X and the AllTrails app was very good. It had us right on the trails we were taking, meaning Last Dollar and Ophir Pass. We could see the switchbacks with ease, and when we quit watching it and did our own thing we soon figured out where we'd gone wrong. But if I get my son into overlanding I'm going to go with the Garmin inReach that no only provides trail mapping but also has text communication as well as emergency communications. Yes, there's a monthly fee but you can turn it off except when you are going on a trip.

According to our page at Documentation/Interchange/Steering the pumps interchange from 1978 - 86. So apparently not. However, if you have the pump I'd give it a try. Pull the pulley and see if it will fit the '95 pump. If so, inspect the connectors and see if they look like they'll fit. If so, give it a try.

Welcome, Myles! Glad you joined. So sorry to see that you are having to let your Bullnose go. But I hope things get better for you and you can get another. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you if we had a city or a zip.

Doubt it is the gasket for the top. What fuel pump are you running? Too much fuel pressure can overcome the floats in an Edelbrock and cause flooding. They recommend no more than something like 5 or 6 psi

That's for 80/86 F—U100/350 - - 4/W/D All Transmission 90" E0TZ 17260— D. But it isn't 92", only 90". However. that's probably not an issue. What is an issue is that you can buy a new, none NOS, one for less than $20. I got mine for $10 delivered instead of $50 + shipping. Again, not NOS. But it works.