Gary Lewis

I don't have that written up, but need to do so and will put it on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. But here's how: Click on your name, right above where the avatar goes Click on Account Settings Click on Change Picture But the picture size is critical. I don't remember exactly how big it should be, but give it a go and I'll help you work it out in this thread.

Glad you got the brakes adjusted and the system bled. But if the brake pedal is low you may have a mal-adjusted push rod. Between the booster and the master cylinder there's an adjustable push rod. It should be set when a new master is installed, but is frequently overlooked, and it can easily cause the pedal to be low. You can check it by pulling the master loose from the booster and moving the master forward a bit. But the adjustment is somewhat critical 'cause if you get it too long the brakes won't release fully and will drag. This is written up on our page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the Master Cyl's & Boosters tab and then the Push Rod Adjustment tab.

Lower, slower Delaware! Been there many times, some of which was to the speedway, some to visit friends that lived there. We used to live near Hockessin as I worked for DuPont at the time. Anyway, you are on the map.

With the T-19 Big Blue's old engine was turning 2400 at 65 and it would get that 11.58. With the ZF5 the new engine is turning 1800 at 65 and I'm still getting about the same MPG. So if you are doing that with a C6 you are doing very well.

I'd also want both the gauge and the light to be hooked up. But on oil pressure you should be able to go to the hardware store and get the right fittings to put a tee or wye in and have both. As for the problem on startup, what filter are you running? I've heard that some filters don't have the drain-back valve in them and that allows all the oil in the system to drain back into the sump, so when the engine starts you have to refill that before pressure comes up. I don't know if that is true, but it is a consideration. David's issue was caused by gunk that was all over the inside of the engine from the PO, and his religious changing of oil finally got it to break loose. But when it did it clogged the pickup on the oil pump, starving the system of oil. Yours sounds more like either a bad sender or, more likely, the oil pressure in the engine is such that after a trip where the oil gets good and warm it thins out and the pressure drops down enough to light the light. So what oil are you running?

Welcome! Glad you joined. How 'bout placing the pic on here so's people can see it w/o clicking. See the how-to at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's for how to do that, but I'll do it below. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you with a city/state or zip.

Cool! I'm guessing the front will come down 3 - 4" with the drivetrain, batterie(s), radiator, etc.

Well, you've solved one problem and probably prevented several other.

Congrat's!!!

Congrat's! That's the best kind of fix.

Yippee!!!!

Well done! Yes, it is normal for the passenger's vents to blow harder than the driver's vents, surely due to how close the blower is to the vents. And while it isn't unusual for air to come out of the vents on defrost or floor, it isn't right. Some door isn't sealing off completely would be my guess. But if you get enough air out of the defrost or the floor vents then it might not be worth fixing it. Anyway, good luck on installing the A/C system!

Yup. Am in the parking lot at the doctor’s office as Janey has a checkup. So no excuses.

Oh! SolId not Sold.

Huh? It has 7 days left. What am I missing?

We were back at our church building for the first time in such a long time yesterday that it seemed like we were visiting. So I know what the feeling was like. Good! On the brakes, I’d go ahead and flush it out. The old fluid will have rust and moisture in it, so it is time to start over.

Nice! I’ll be curious to see what it goes for.

Yep, that is simple.

Thanks, Jim. I've added links to those pages, as well of a discussion of what's on the tabs, in the Instructions tab. Please see what you think.

Wow! That's quite the compressor. And that's a lot of air. Yes, it should keep up with a sandblaster. As for testing a tank with grease, I would never have thought of that, but it is a good idea. Ingenious!

Dane - Those are pretty decent numbers with a C6! I can crowd 12 with Big Blue and the ZF5, so for you to get 11.3 is pretty good.

No, I don't think Scotty wanted me to host the instructions here. If I remember correctly he said we could link to them. But the Crane ones should certainly help. We can not only refer people to them, but since they are OCR'd we can quote them, like this:

Yes, a full tank of air has a whole lot of potential energy when filled to 170+ psi! So limiting the air with water is a good idea. As for the controls, that's interesting. I saw the valve working in the video, but didn't realize what it was doing. That seems like a nice system as it keeps the pump turning to cool it, and keep its flywheel spinning if it has one. You really have this thing worked out! Concerning having compressed air available, I'm looking forward to getting the 4 CFM/200 psi system installed on Big Blue. Should be pretty handy.

I suspect the speed makes a much bigger difference than the spoiler. These trucks are worse than the proverbial barn door as they have recesses that hold air, like around the headlights and the grille. David/1986F150Six typically drives at lower speeds and the spoiler's effect can be seen. At higher speeds it'll probably be overlooked. But glad the sound system is working for you.