Gary Lewis

Last year we had a thread where we discussed the show categories/classes and voting. And here's what we settled on: Classes: 1966 & earlier; 1967 - 1972; 1973 - 1979; 1980 - 86, & 1987 and later Trophies: One for each class and then one each for Best Engine, Best Interior, Best Modifications, Best Paint, Crowd Favorite, & Farthest Driven Voting: Entrant only, meaning a ballot will be given to the driver of each truck and s/he will get to vote The classes/trophies are the same again this year. But I'm questioning the voting. With only 18 trucks we only had 18 voters. But we had scads of people. Which begs the question of how 18 people can represent "the crowd" to award the Crowd Favorite trophy. So I'm wondering about changing it up slightly this year and giving out complete ballots to the drivers as we did last year, but giving out a Crowd Favorite ballot to the hordes. What do you think???

Cool! It would sure be nice if there could be a material we could use to 3D print the various body plugs as some, like this one, are very hard to find.

This is one of "those cases" as "9C604" does not exist in the MPC, which normally lists only part numbers. "D8TE-9C604-BA" is obviously an ID# as the "E" of D8TE doesn't fit with a part number. Nor does the "BA" as all PN suffixes I've seen have only a single character. So without going to the cross reference, getting the PN from the ID #, and then looking that up in the MPC I can't tell you what that part fits.

Be careful with that "part numbers" bit. I'm sure you are aware that the #'s shown are the base part numbers and you need the prefix and suffix to complete the part number. But most people post the ID# that is on the part and call it a part number. It isn't and in too many cases there is a significant difference between the ID # and the PN. I may be able cross reference ID to PN if you want. "May" because my earliest cross reference book is from 1980, but it should cover the 70's.

Before the Bullnose era the Broncos were supposedly covered in the car MPC. But I can't find what I'm looking for in there on your Bronco. So here's the illustration for the pickups:

Let me look up what the air inlet system looks like on that.

I don't think so. In the dim reaches of my mind I remember having to close that hole when converting to or from a manual choke. And if the hole was needed it would be pulling filtered air, not dirty air. I'll do some reading as well.

I'd bet the hole at the choke was the source of the whistle. And to close that you could put a ball bearing in there - assuming there's a narrow spot farther in that will stop it from going through. Or run a self-tapping screw in with some PST on the threads.

I forgot to say that this doesn't have to be a permanent decision. We might try it "easy" and see if we like it and tighten it up later if we don't. But Chris has worked out what it takes so we are ready. Keep those cards and letters coming in, please.

According to this thread, Raybestos MC39634 includes the residual pressure valve, which you will need as it provides the correct fitting size for the existing line. And the Motorcraft BRMC63 is a fit as well. But make sure it has the residual pressure valve.

This stuff is 08061. The part number is on the bottom of the tube in my picture. Be very careful applying it, and keep it away from the edges so nothing squeezes out. Someone sloppily used it to attach an aftermarket emblem on my fenders, and it has since fallen off, and now I just have a light brown splotch (its the color of wood glue) where the emblem was, and I can't get it off my paint Ok, thanks. I'll heed that warning.

Oops! Wasn't done. Chris/ckuske has been slaving away on working through our to-be joining process on InVision, which is a good thing as it looks like we are moving two weeks from today, the 15th. And Jeff and I've been testing. Thanks, guys! Remember that we said that we want the newbies to have to create an introduction in the New Members Start Here folder? Well, that isn't as easily done as typed, but Chris got it done. Now we need to think about whether or not we really want it to work that way. I say that because it takes quite a few steps to make it happen: Screen shots of those steps are below, but we need to decide if this is what we want. If we don't really care that they introduce themselves then we could take the signature and introduction steps out and they'd just have to fill out the signup form wherein they agree to the guidelines and then confirm their email and they are in. That probably means we'll get more people who just want to ask one question, but we need to weigh that vs the potential of running people off with all the requirements. COMMENTS, PLEASE! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

I think that's the stuff we used to call "gorilla snot". Sticks to everything. I have the 3M Plastic and Emblem Adhesive, 08061, 5 oz Tube arriving tomorrow. It is supposed to dry clear, but we shall see. I have some of my narrow trim at the beltline coming loose at the ends and I want to glue it down before it gets peeled off.

Thanks, David. But I thought the motto was Be Prepared, so while I'm not "always prepared" I'm trying to get prepared. Toward that end, last Saturday I asked at these local stores for contributions for the show, aka "swag". Here's where we stand on that: Bumper-To-Bumper: Gave a detailing kit, just like last year Tate Boys Tires: Asked me to come back today, and today they gave me a card for an oil change - which could be up to $140 if it is a diesel. O'Reilly's: Manager wasn't there but would be today. Nope, didn't make it home but will be there tomorrow. Skiatook Auto Parts: DeWayne asked me to come back tomorrow as he needs to talk to the manager. Summit has already sent their contribution, but it only has ballots, vehicle ID cards, and a banner. And LMC's hasn't come in yet so I don't know what it might contain.

If you are replacing the master cylinder I'd recommend going with the later style with the aluminum body and plastic tank. We can get you the part number for one that doesn't require any plumbing changes save for bending the lines slightly to put the front in the back and back in the front. One major advantage is the ability to easily bleed the whole system. Get a 2nd cap, put an air fitting in it, and put ~3 psi of air on the master. Open the bleed valves until you get no bubbles, and you are done. (Obviously don't let the master go dry.) And you can create that much air pressure easily with a garden sprayer if you don't have an air compressor.

Yes, sure glad you found this!

Sorry, Jeff. I missed that. I hadn't planned to do it this time as so few were interested last time. And because Steve Fox/FoxFord33 isn't available and he was doing to video work. Is that going to be a problem, folks? I'm going to hire a young man from church, Yuri, to help set up & take down as well as to run the concession stand. And toward the latter we've been doing some shopping:

Yes, we will have experts up here. Bring it on! Seriously though, have y'all considered the noise the cooling fan makes? If there's a perceived difference between hot and cold then maybe the noise the fan makes when hot is clouding the perception?

Sorry, but I don't have a core. I forgot this for your Jeep.

Sorry, Jeff. I missed that. I hadn't planned to do it this time as so few were interested last time. And because Steve Fox/FoxFord33 isn't available and he was doing to video work. Is that going to be a problem, folks?

The show is two weeks from today and the trophies are here! BE THERE! The categories are as last year: Crowd Favorite Best Engine Best Interior Best Modifications Farthest Driven Best Paint Best 1966 & Earlier Best 1967 - 72 Best 1967 - 79 Best 1980 - 86 Best 1987 & Later

Yep. And as you've pointed out many times, the radiators for the gas-engined V8 trucks were pretty much the same. For instance E0TZ 8005-Z was used for the 302, 351W, 351M, 400, & the 460. Yes, there were differences with manual transmission vs automatic and A/C vs non-A/C from the factory as Ford was using the minimum radiator possible, but the E0TZ-Z would fit everything.

Cool! But he's implying that the thing is un-restored. However, the hood hinges have been repainted and there are lots of other hints that it has been restored. Still, I like it!

Jim is right that the mounting holes are the same. But, the mounting for all radiators changed in '85. So unless you want to modify your radiator support, which is explained on our page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/Radiator Support, you'll want to get a radiator for a 1980 - 84 truck. As for the radiator, several of us have had problems with brand new Champions. Mine leaked pretty quickly and was replaced under warranty. Larry/ratdude747's Champion leaked but the supplier, Summit if I remember correctly, couldn't find a replacement in a reasonable time and he bought something else. So I'm not recommending Champion.

Well done!