Gary Lewis

Ok guys, the votes are on on the votes - the entrants will vote for everything and the visitors will vote for Crowd Favorite. Here are the ballots I've created, but please let me know soonest if you see a problem - before I have them printed on 3x5 cards.

I agree with Jim - good and not so good. But I disagree with him slightly - replacing the ring gear on the flywheel for Dad's truck took me at least half of a day. Yes, I'm old and slow. But part of that was due to only having a MAPP gas torch. Still, it wasn't hard, just slow and tedious.

Ok, I'm getting the feeling that the majority like the more involved joining process. So let's give it a try - it doesn't have to be permanent. However, it is confusing to me to have the signature line say "Enter information about yourself and your truck..." and then the next step to be to create an introduction post. I like Jeff's suggestion of it reading more like "It will be much easier to help you if you create a signature here which contains a short description of your truck specifications (model, year, engine, tranny, and whatever info you think is important). If needed, you can complete and/or modify these info later in your profile." Chris - Can you make those changes? Let's give this a try.

Nice box, Joe. As for what I did, I glued the trim back on in many places on Big Blue today. With the shows coming, both ours as well as the one in my home town, I wanted the trim to be stuck down well. And today's the day 'cause I'm having the truck detailed on Saturday by the young man across the street, so I need the glue to be set up and the excess removed. So I'll do the untaping and cleaning up tomorrow. As for how I did it, I used 3M's 08061 Plastic And Emblem Adhesive. But before applying it I cleaned both the rubber trim & aluminum strip with a Q-Tip soaked with O'Reilly's Brake Cleaner. That got the old adhesive off and also cleans up the new adhesive after it dries on most thing - but not fingers so far. The tape (hull saver, Jim) is applied from the bottom and pulled up to ensure that the rubber is seated against the lip of the aluminum strip. I stretched it pretty tight and it seems to hold well. But tomorrow we will find out how well this "takes".

I think your glue may be old. Mine is as clear as water, as shown below. And there's a bonus shot showing how I'm doing it. But for more info, I'm using O'Reilly's Brake Cleaner on a Qtip to clean behind the rubber, and I've found that it cleans the dried glue off of most things - but not fingers so far.

I've had that happen, and w/o a return spring on the carb linkage itself it could have been bad as I was climbing a steep hill and had quite a bit of throttle on it.

I've emailed both of you. Can't wait to get to InVision!!!

Yep, all the time. Not a member of the Phunny Pharm, but my vehicles are tuned to Channel 73, aka 60's Gold, and my shop computer has it streaming.

Nice looking truck! And you are now on the map in Circle Pines, Minnesnowta as Phlash Phelps is wont to say.

Welcome! Glad you joined! Show us some pics of your truck? (Until we move this platform, Nabble, is finicky about posting pics so you might want to read about that on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's in the menu.) Speaking of the menu, you might want to look at the map at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map. We can put you on it if you tell us the town in MN.

Last year we had a thread where we discussed the show categories/classes and voting. And here's what we settled on: Classes: 1966 & earlier; 1967 - 1972; 1973 - 1979; 1980 - 86, & 1987 and later Trophies: One for each class and then one each for Best Engine, Best Interior, Best Modifications, Best Paint, Crowd Favorite, & Farthest Driven Voting: Entrant only, meaning a ballot will be given to the driver of each truck and s/he will get to vote The classes/trophies are the same again this year. But I'm questioning the voting. With only 18 trucks we only had 18 voters. But we had scads of people. Which begs the question of how 18 people can represent "the crowd" to award the Crowd Favorite trophy. So I'm wondering about changing it up slightly this year and giving out complete ballots to the drivers as we did last year, but giving out a Crowd Favorite ballot to the hordes. What do you think???

Cool! It would sure be nice if there could be a material we could use to 3D print the various body plugs as some, like this one, are very hard to find.

This is one of "those cases" as "9C604" does not exist in the MPC, which normally lists only part numbers. "D8TE-9C604-BA" is obviously an ID# as the "E" of D8TE doesn't fit with a part number. Nor does the "BA" as all PN suffixes I've seen have only a single character. So without going to the cross reference, getting the PN from the ID #, and then looking that up in the MPC I can't tell you what that part fits.

Be careful with that "part numbers" bit. I'm sure you are aware that the #'s shown are the base part numbers and you need the prefix and suffix to complete the part number. But most people post the ID# that is on the part and call it a part number. It isn't and in too many cases there is a significant difference between the ID # and the PN. I may be able cross reference ID to PN if you want. "May" because my earliest cross reference book is from 1980, but it should cover the 70's.

Before the Bullnose era the Broncos were supposedly covered in the car MPC. But I can't find what I'm looking for in there on your Bronco. So here's the illustration for the pickups:

Let me look up what the air inlet system looks like on that.

I don't think so. In the dim reaches of my mind I remember having to close that hole when converting to or from a manual choke. And if the hole was needed it would be pulling filtered air, not dirty air. I'll do some reading as well.

I'd bet the hole at the choke was the source of the whistle. And to close that you could put a ball bearing in there - assuming there's a narrow spot farther in that will stop it from going through. Or run a self-tapping screw in with some PST on the threads.

I forgot to say that this doesn't have to be a permanent decision. We might try it "easy" and see if we like it and tighten it up later if we don't. But Chris has worked out what it takes so we are ready. Keep those cards and letters coming in, please.

According to this thread, Raybestos MC39634 includes the residual pressure valve, which you will need as it provides the correct fitting size for the existing line. And the Motorcraft BRMC63 is a fit as well. But make sure it has the residual pressure valve.

This stuff is 08061. The part number is on the bottom of the tube in my picture. Be very careful applying it, and keep it away from the edges so nothing squeezes out. Someone sloppily used it to attach an aftermarket emblem on my fenders, and it has since fallen off, and now I just have a light brown splotch (its the color of wood glue) where the emblem was, and I can't get it off my paint Ok, thanks. I'll heed that warning.

Oops! Wasn't done. Chris/ckuske has been slaving away on working through our to-be joining process on InVision, which is a good thing as it looks like we are moving two weeks from today, the 15th. And Jeff and I've been testing. Thanks, guys! Remember that we said that we want the newbies to have to create an introduction in the New Members Start Here folder? Well, that isn't as easily done as typed, but Chris got it done. Now we need to think about whether or not we really want it to work that way. I say that because it takes quite a few steps to make it happen: Screen shots of those steps are below, but we need to decide if this is what we want. If we don't really care that they introduce themselves then we could take the signature and introduction steps out and they'd just have to fill out the signup form wherein they agree to the guidelines and then confirm their email and they are in. That probably means we'll get more people who just want to ask one question, but we need to weigh that vs the potential of running people off with all the requirements. COMMENTS, PLEASE! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

I think that's the stuff we used to call "gorilla snot". Sticks to everything. I have the 3M Plastic and Emblem Adhesive, 08061, 5 oz Tube arriving tomorrow. It is supposed to dry clear, but we shall see. I have some of my narrow trim at the beltline coming loose at the ends and I want to glue it down before it gets peeled off.

Thanks, David. But I thought the motto was Be Prepared, so while I'm not "always prepared" I'm trying to get prepared. Toward that end, last Saturday I asked at these local stores for contributions for the show, aka "swag". Here's where we stand on that: Bumper-To-Bumper: Gave a detailing kit, just like last year Tate Boys Tires: Asked me to come back today, and today they gave me a card for an oil change - which could be up to $140 if it is a diesel. O'Reilly's: Manager wasn't there but would be today. Nope, didn't make it home but will be there tomorrow. Skiatook Auto Parts: DeWayne asked me to come back tomorrow as he needs to talk to the manager. Summit has already sent their contribution, but it only has ballots, vehicle ID cards, and a banner. And LMC's hasn't come in yet so I don't know what it might contain.

If you are replacing the master cylinder I'd recommend going with the later style with the aluminum body and plastic tank. We can get you the part number for one that doesn't require any plumbing changes save for bending the lines slightly to put the front in the back and back in the front. One major advantage is the ability to easily bleed the whole system. Get a 2nd cap, put an air fitting in it, and put ~3 psi of air on the master. Open the bleed valves until you get no bubbles, and you are done. (Obviously don't let the master go dry.) And you can create that much air pressure easily with a garden sprayer if you don't have an air compressor.