Gary Lewis

While it says "for parts or repair, multiple wires/plugs cut - see photos", it doesn't look too bad. They've flagged several spots where the wires have been cut off and a couple of crimp connectors near the fuse box. But it isn't too bad, so could be used as a replacement if someone had the bits that have been cut off.

That's the '85 and '86 glove box, and it is certainly much better than the '80 - 84 one.

Bill/85lebaront2 said this: "Darth is a 2WD crew cab DRW truck and empty weight on a certified scale a couple of years ago was 6400 lbs." And the '79 is probably a bit heavier, although maybe not if it is SRW instead of DRW. On the other hand, Scott/Welderscott has had his '78 F150 over several times and his tie rods are the equivalent of Big Blue's tie rods. In other words, the '79 and earlier trucks were heavier built than the '80 and later trucks, so have to weigh more. When you subtract the 1700 from 7000 you get 5300, and that means you'd be 15 - 20% overloaded on the trailer. But there is also the question of length. The Bullnose crewcabs have a wheelbase of 168.4", so I assume the '79 does as well. Can your trailer handle that? As for your truck, here's a page from the '85 owner's manual on towing. See the note about an F150 w/a 4.9L and AOD requiring the trailer towing package for towing even 2000 lbs. Does your trailer have brakes? Does your truck have a brake controller? Bottom Line: Your trailer and your truck are not spec'd to do it. Can it be done? Probably. Will you have problems? Maybe. But you would be past the limits all the way around.

Wow, you are really doing a very thorough job. As for English, we enjoy watching Britcoms to keep up with their terminology.

I've not rebuilt that transmission, so all I can tell you is what I read. Sorry. But I would think that everything is supposed to fit together and "bottoms out", but that is just my thinking. And then you "MAINTAIN DOWNWARD PRESSURE ON INPUT SHAFT WHILE USING FEELER GAUGE". Just my guess. As for investigating, it caused me to realize I'd used an old way of presenting that section on the website. So I took the time to update it and now it is much cleaner and clearer. Plus, I OCR'd the file so you can search it for terms. So it was all for good.

I don't know what Ford shop manual you have, but have you looked at the excerpt we have on site: Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/NP435? It has the page below on measuring, showing both in the case as well as on the bench methods. And later it says "When the input shaft end play has been established, re-check the synchronizer clearance. It should be 1.77-2.41mm (0.070-0.095 inch). Adjust, if required."

I thought as much. I lived in the UK for a couple of years and sometimes use their terminology, but can easily spot it.

Welcome. If the Tabco panel is a good fit you could clean your floor up, prime it, and just place a portion of the Tabco panel over yours. Use something like the SEM adhesive I used, ensuring the holes in your floor are sealed with it, and a few pop rivets to hold the panel tightly in place until the adhesive sets up. That way it would be not only sealed but very strong and have no chance of leaks.

I've not cut out a piece and welded one in. But I've read about it, and everything I've read said that you need to overlap the new panel on top of the old panel as it is hard to butt-weld a panel into place, and you are very likely to have a leak. So when I put a panel in the floor of Dad's truck I overlapped the panel, used SEM adhesive, and pop rivets to hold it in place while the SEM set up. That ensured that I had a leak-proof joint. You can read up on how I did it here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Dad-s-Truck-Build-tp7104p27400.html.

It is good that you found the leak as well as the source. But, I'm not sure that you can easily repair that with a welder. However, maybe I misunderstand what your intentions are. The issue is that the metal is really thin where it has rusted, so you can't easily weld up the holes as you'll burn through. I tried to fill holes on Big Blue that were a lot smaller than yours and I burned through, badly. What I wound up doing was to braze the holes shut. But I don't think that will work for you as your holes are too large to fill with brazing. If it was me I'd check with Tabco and see if their Cab Floor w/ Outer Flanges has all the sheetmetal you need. If so you could trim it to fit and glue it in w/o welding.

Thanks, Bruce. I found it with a Google search here: Glade Top Trail Flaming Fall Revue- Music & BBQ. And on Google Maps here. It is 244 miles and 4 hours & 17 minutes from here, so it is quite a hike. Sounds like fun, but I'm not sure we will be ready for that as we are taking another trip 'twixt now and then and may not be ready to get back on the road. But I'll talk it over with Janey.

Thanks, John.

That seems reasonable.

Pretty good save for the damage on the right flank.

Ok, you are accountable. But in what timeframe? We just want to help you along. Seriously though, it looks good! You are doing a really thorough job, and the truck is going to be a pleasure to drive when you are done.

You are now on the map!

"Whilst"? Are you British? Anyway, I agree with the "do it while you are here" approach. When I'm done I want to be D.O.N.E. I don't want to have to go back to that area again, nor worry that I didn't fix it.

Yes, I see that you have. As for tires, I had 31" tires (31 x 10.5 x 15) on Rusty, an '81 F150 4x4, and they worked fine except for touching the radius arm just before the steering turned all the way. So it was livable, but I wouldn't have wanted anything larger on there.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Nice looking truck, and that's a good combo of engine and transmission to maintain. Simple and stout. Jemez Mountains, New Mexico. I see where that is on the map and it looks like my wife and I've been there. Had friends that lived east of Albuquerque and we came up to a pueblo to see them make pottery. Maybe Jemez Pueblo? Anyway, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could put you on if we had a city or zip.

Welcome to the forum! Glad you joined. But before we get to your question we need to address the guidelines. We sent you an email asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then introduce yourself by starting a new thread in that folder. You've missed that email, but don't worry as about half the new people do. However, we do need to know that you've read the guidelines before we answer questions as we hold everyone to the guidelines. So, have you read them?

Yes, it is amazing they don't have problems. They really have gotten their processed down to a science.

My nephew that set up the A/C on Big Blue borrowed a Model A for the getaway car on their wedding day. And it caught fire due to one of those fuel tank leaks. They got it put out, but there was damage.

Cool! Haven't tried that approach, but will. And your frame is looking great!

Wow! You are really doing a thorough job! And that is a LOT of work! But are you saying that you got the bumper off by using a wire wheel on the Dremel to clean the threads and then hit them with PB Blaster? And they came off ok?