Gary Lewis

I assume you mean his statement of "For traditional flat tappet engines, no matter how wicked they may be – use a highly ranked oil from my Wear Protection Ranking list, no matter how much zinc is in it, for break-in to protect against wiped lobes, and a side benefit is that no elaborate break-in procedures will be necessary. Then continue to use the same oil after break-in." So what oil are you going to pick?

I can't wait to hear him purr! Or roar! Great job.

Oil dripping off of the tranny's inspection cover is usually from the rear main. On the oil pooling between the head and the intake manifold, I'm going to guess that it is because the valve cover isn't sealing there. Typically what happens is that the valve covers leak so people tighten the bolts down more, which bends the valve cover right below the bolt head. And then when you put new gaskets in if you don't flatten the valve cover the gasket hits there but then doesn't hit either side of that point and you have a leak. I lay the valve cover upside down on the edge of my work table and use a small ballpein hammer to drive the dent at the bolt holes out, being careful to not go too far the other way.

Ahhh! That document. It is on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/General Automatic Transmission Service. That's because you discussed all the transmissions and that page is the only one common to all automatics. And I added the ASTG document to the page at Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/Automatic Overdrive (AOD). Thanks!

Well, it has been one of "those" days. First thing was to put the nutserts in the reservoir bracket and that went well. Next was to media-blast it, which went well also. Then it was time to powder coat it, and that's where "things" started happening. Had it in the oven and realized that the oven had been on longer than usual w/o getting up to 420. The drill is to get it to 420 and then drop the set point to 400 and time it for 20 minutes and then turn the oven off and crack the door open. But we were struggling to reach 400, so I set the timer when it finally reached 400 and left the oven straining for 420. It finally reached it just before the 20 minutes was up, so I finished the 20 minutes and turned it off. Opened the door and found the left heating element had burned in two. If you look closely you can see the top piece of the element laying down below the rest of the element. And compare it to the one on the right. But, the bracket turned out ok, so I installed it. Then it was time to put the reservoir in, but first I had to install a pump in it, and when I did that I made sure the seal on the pump was nicely lubed. Then I checked it by running water in the reservoir. The pump worked and didn't leak. So I installed the reservoir and filled the windshield washer side with fluid and came in to the desk to get a drink of water. Back out to the lift and found this. The seal on the pump is pouring. Reservoir is back out and draining into the washer fluid bottle and I'm figuring out what the next step is. Gotta pull the pump and see why it leaks. Maybe pull the one out of the reservoir that was in the previous reservoir?

I like those wheels and tires! Looks great! On the bushing, I think .4" should be plenty. And you are right, it just registers the input shaft. So if you have a good fit and it is centered up it should work very well. And I'll watch and see what the plans are. Maybe get it going with the flathead and drive it some to see what you want? On the pics, I'm not sure what you tried to do, but I just rotated them 180 degrees - and lightened the 2nd one a bit. And then forced them to width="100%".

Cute! And expensive! But don't like the wheels. Doubt they'd last at all on the trail, nor would those low-profile tires. I just don't understand why people want to make a pretender out of a very capable vehicle.

That is the same thing he is looking to do. If you did not post that he is reading your mind Dave ---- Starting up a new lash-up with a carb is good as it simplifies things. Then you know the fuel system works and the engine runs, so you can move on to EFI and know that if you have problems it is with the latter. (Or, you just get tired of working on the truck and want to drive it so you slap a carb on and go. )

Bill - I don't remember you writing that, but if you did please send it to me again.

Oops, I forgot the speedo. Yes, it stayed the same.

Cory - I can't answer your question. In fact, I confused myself trying to. I went to our page (Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/Kickdown Linkage) and found that there are differences depending on the engine. Then I went to the page at Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/Automatic Overdrive (AOD) and on pages 2 & three found that:

Gary that is good to know as we did talk a little about this and Kurt was thinking just 1 regulator with a return would work. I bet he will read this and change his plans as needed. What is your plans when you go to EFI? Not run the regulators as I don't think they would be needed? Dave ---- I do hope he will read it. And go watch the videos. But two regulators tamed it and I have several thousand problem-free miles on that setup. As for EFI, my plans are to install that this winter. And I designed the regulator setup to plug directly into the supply and return lines, so those lines will unplug from the regulators and plug directly into the EFI fuel rails.

Bummer! But at least you didn't damage too much. Sure hope you can find that pulley. As said, I'm fresh out.

Not the ones I've seen. Might have been a mid-year change like the slide locks. Ok, thanks Shaun. I just added "Radio and Clock wiring harnesses used a rubber (Trailer style) connector" to the 1980 list.

The features on that system are amazing, but there are some gotcha's. For instance, it looks like since the mirror doesn't have any speakers, when you use the hands-free to call you have to have the FM on your car radio set to the same frequency the mirror is broadcasting on to hear the party to whom you are speaking. I may have that wrong, but that's the way I read the manual.

Good point, Cory. But wasn't it an 11-digit VIN in '80? I added this to the 1980 entry on the differences tab: Last of the 11-digit VIN's. After that the VIN when to 17 digits.

Just as an FYI, I'm running the EFI fuel delivery modules (FDM's) on Big Blue with a carb, an Edelbrock to be exact. And I can tell you that one fuel pressure regulator, even a return-style, isn't enough to tame the pressure. I had to double-head regulators, with a return-style first and a dead-head style second. You can see that in this post in Big Blue's Transformation. The issue was that with just the return-style regulator in place the fuel pressure would pulse. And the pressure during the pulses was more than I think the carb would handle. You can see a video of the pulsing here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p73671.html.

Thanks, Heinz. But I think I'm 7 hours behind you. I'm in CDT, which is -6 UTC, and you are in CET which is +1 UTC. (Having lived in London I know w/o thinking that we are 6 hours behind them. And having been on the Continent many, many times I can usually remember to add an hour for Central and two hours for Eastern Europe.) Anyway, it is very possible there wasn't a filter in the housing. I know that the later fuel systems had a separate, frame-mounted, filter. So I think in your case I'd put the valve in to see that it works correctly. Then I'd add a filter in the line. I used the Motorcraft FG872 Fuel Filter in Big Blue as that is standard for the 1990's system I installed. And good luck on the soccer! I've not been to that stadium but have been near it as DuPont has facilities in Neu-Isenberg. Of course I've been through the Flughafen many, many times, and that's near the stadium as well. And, as you know, I've spent a bit of time near your home. Always stayed in the Steigenberger across the street from the park in Bad Homburg. So I've been up/down the A5 quite a few times. Hope your trip is easy and the match goes your way!

IIRC I had one do the same now if I can remember the copper washer Dia. was to large to fit into the recess of the caliper. It looked close and can be over looked till you have a leak like this. I dont remember what I did to fix it but I want to say I re-used the old washer and no more leak. Dave ---- That's basically why I asked about the size of the washers. I've seen some that wouldn't fit down in.

On the prices, here's Hagerty's evaluation of a 1986 Bronco XLT Lariat with a 351 HO. A #3 vehicle is supposedly worth a bit north of $17,500, and even a #1 is worth around $9000. And while those prices may be a little bit higher than what we've been seeing, and Hagerty would want to inflate the prices some to get you to insure your vehicle to the hilt, they are much closer to reality than the Hemmings prices. As for the engine, the HO didn't have any EEC. It had DS-II, just like the 7.5L. But the HP is correct as the HP had 210 and the 2V had 150 in the F150, LD F250, or Bronco. But the F250HD or F350 had 165 HP. These are specs from the 1984 Dealers book on our site.

Yes, and yes. You can use the slider latches as pin latches, but down will be unlock and up will be lock.

I'll be happy to ship it to you and then you reimburse me for shipping, which won't be cheap to Canada. You can either use Paypal or send me a check, but I use Paypal all the time. Two ways to email me your address: Click on my name and then click on Send Email to Gary Lewis and follow the directions. However, that system is broken such that it appears that the message didn't go. But it usually does. Just tick the box that says "Send a copy of this message to me" and you'll see it does. Go to About in the menu above and then scroll down to find the Contact Me form. As for the literature, we do have some of the '84 sales brochures on site. Go to Documentation/Manuals & Literature and you'll see what we have. If you have something we don't have let's talk about that.

Was in Barnes & Noble recently and saw this issue of Hemmings and decided I needed to read it - for obvious reasons. And then I found the statements on the left and the prices on the right. I didn't buy the magazine. So, do you see what I see? How 'bout the pricing? How many years out of date is it?

Thanks, guys. I've added your comments to the 1980 section on the Yearly Differences tab on the page at Documentation/Bullnose FAQ's, with the exception of the bit about "Radio and Clock wiring harnesses used a rubber (Trailer style) connector". I thought the 1981 trucks had the same thing. No?

Oh, ok. It is F1UZ-9B263-B part number, and my MPC doesn't go to 1991. So I can't come up with the part number of the filter. Sorry. As for "night", I'll say gute nacht. But it is already tomorrow there! So instead I'll say guten morgen.