Gary Lewis

Yep! I have quite a few old races, etc. They seem to come in really handy when pressing things in.

He's posted a few of my things and they've all sold. Yep! He not only has a gift for finding things, but when he tells people about them they seem to sell quickly.

Man, you are GOOD! Remind me to have you post something I'm selling.

I'm sure you think Big Blue is a mess of modified components. But most of the "consumables", like alternators, reservoirs, radiators, brake shoes & pads, etc are off the shelf. IOW, I can order a new one in, assuming I know what the application is, and install it w/o modification. But the sixty-four-thousand-dollar question will be "What is the application?" It just occurred to me that the 3-ring binder I have under the seat with the owner's manuals for the various accessories, like the brake controller, GMRS radio, etc would be a good place to keep a list of "applications". Like: Front axle, brakes, and driveshaft: D60 from a '95 F350 Front suspension: Aternator: 3G from a???? (What did it come from, Jim? Drive belts: I have a start on that in the document at the top of Big Blue's Transformation thread, but need to get more specific with it.

John - Thanks for those tips. Doing those kinds of things gets the creative juices flowing and it is amazing what you can come up with given the right tools and lots of bits and pieces. You mentioned using a Dremel to reduce the size of an outer race, but I've found that placing the race on the bearing and then holding the race up to the bench grinder using the bearing to let it turn takes off just a little bit of the race and lets you use it to press the new one in. So there are lots of ways to do things, you just have to think through it and use what is at hand.

Nice looking truck.

I much prefer to leave the things I'm adding to the truck in their stock state so I, or my offspring, can replace it at some point w/o having to modify it. So I'll make the bracket to accept the reservoir rather than the reservoir to fit the bracket.

That's a good plan as I sold one of those bell housings for $200. They are like hen's teeth.

I'm not going to mod the tabs of the reservoir. Instead I'll make a new bracket which will look a lot like the one below, which is the one I made last January and took out yesterday. But the main difference will be the width between the uprights as the later reservoir's tabs are ~1" farther apart. And here's a pic with the bracket installed, on the left, and then with the smaller Bullnose reservoir in place on the bracket.

I actually thought about quoting him, Jim. IIRC he said something like "If I ever consider doing it again I'll just pour gasoline on it and set it on fire instead.".

Thanks, Jim. Wikipedia says: So maybe it was in the cutaways and F-53 chassis trucks? Also, note the HP and torque values. IIRC, Scotty told me this one should put out 360 - 370 HP and ~500 lb-ft of torque. As for the reservoir, et al, it isn't likely to get sorted tomorrow. Janey's GLK turned on the MIL while I was gone and when I got home my scanner acknowledged that the light is on but couldn't find any codes. So we took it in today and shopped while they looked at it. As of 3:30 they'd not diagnosed the problem yet, so we came home. And that means that I'll probably have to go back for it tomorrow. But, I plan to work on it in the morn, so may make some progress. Perhaps I can get the PDB relocated. Then the next step will be to design the bracket for the larger reservoir.

I think you found it. Should be able to splice it in easily. But I recommend soldering it and using adhesive-lined shrink tubing to seal and protect it.

Pretty! Bassani makes good stuff, so I'm not surprised they fit so well. But the exhaust tone is distinctive, so I'm anxious to hear a recording of it.

Do everything you can to make sure it isn't from somewhere else, like the oil pressure switch on the back of the block. That's because getting the pan off is not going to be easy. I've pulled the pan on a 351W on a lift and it was no fun. In fact, I vowed I'd never do it again. Instead, I'd pull the engine. But a 460 has to be much worse as there's even less room. So I'd say that if I were to do it even my lift wouldn't sway me to do it in the truck. I'd pull the engine.

Not bad at all for $1500. The bad idle could be bad vacuum lines. On the other hand, it could easily be bad valves, so...

Well, the acquisition of EFI parts has begun again. I just ordered BBK's #3502 throttle body. I'd misread their advert as saying it fits 1987 - 1993, when it actually says 1987 - 2003. I guess I want to "really rock above 3,500 - 4,000 rpm". Seriously though, I don't like the idea of a rebuilt throttle body. Reading BBK's description I liked several things they said, like "BBK Performance F-Series 460 61mm throttle bodies are CNC machined from high quality 356 aluminum castings to ensure perfect OEM quality and fit every time. Features OEM quality throttle gear, double sealed bearings and o-ringed throttle shafts." But, they are out of stock so it'll be 4-6 weeks before I get it. However, Tim, the tech who is from Leeds, England, got my joke that I went to Leeds to see Leeds Castle so I felt compelled to buy from him.

Yep, that's the one as well. Nice find, David. But I have the Dorman coming. Hope it is well sealed.

This is more expensive... is this the correct one?https://www.ebay.com/itm/251597679826?epid=1429926212&hash=item3a9463ecd2:g:zJkAAOSwxCxT0S75Yes, that appears to be the correct one. But I ordered a Dorman replacement for about half that via Amazon, which also has that NOS one for the same price - and free shipping as well. But thanks!

I’ve been around this forum probably as long as anyone () and I think it time for a cigar! I’m guessing when you moved the wires you moved some hoses as well.

I don't know about the Y brace, but G701 is said in the later EVTM's to be "Behind I/P (instrument panel) near right hand side of radio." In other words, it is screwed into the firewall in the cab ahead of the radio. As for the sending unit, if you are lucky the ground will fix it. If not, maybe there is a "hole" in the potentiometer and it reads right above and below that point. To check, I'd pull the wire off the sending unit and ground it. The gauge should go to Full and then some. (Don't leave the ground on too long.) That will prove the wiring, ICVR, and gauge are good.

Not a bad haul? That was a STEAL! As you said, the scanner is the pick of the litter, but the fuel pressure set is great as well. That "QuickFill Vacuum Coolant filler and radiator tester" is something I've never seen. Have you used it? Sounds like you have with the comment about pinching off the overflow. I'm intrigued, so can you tell us more? And the rest of it is interesting as well. You really got a deal.

Well done, Larry! That was a whole lot of work, but it paid off. And, it looks good.

Glad you got to close this out, Larry.

That should make for a very nice rear axle. I really like the TrueTrac in Big Blue.

Johnny - Wow! Well done! However, it isn't as likely to get found in the New Members Start Here folder as in the main section. So would it be ok for me to move it there? Second, we could make it even easier to find if I were to put it on the web page in Documentation/Interior/Door Locks. I'd create a tab for it and copy it lock, stock, and barrel. And, move it to the main section as well. Ok?