Gary Lewis

You are now on the map.

We will be interested to see what you get and how well it works. Please keep us posted.

Yay! 1/8" isn't much of an error on a vee belt. I've seen them far worse than that and going strong. WelderScott's '78 F150 had the power steering pump cocked at an angle as well as being off more than 1/8" and it was fine. However, we put the pump and pulley on from Dad's truck and it lined up perfectly.

At least you are making progress. As for what is killing the pumps, I assume that the E-series is wired similarly to the F-series and that there's supposed to be an 8 - 9 ohm resistance wire in the circuit. Do you know that it is there? You could measure resistance from the battery to the pump. Wouldn't have to pull the positive cable since the DVM won't be connected to ground, but it wouldn't hurt.

Hello, and welcome! Particus? I think I've heard of him. Washington to Tejas w/o oil, sounds familiar. So I think I know who you are. You'll surely want to start a thread in the main section to track your progress, and I look forward to it.

Yep, and I responded by taking a nap. Things looked a lot better after that. And brightened up even more when I found that Amazon has Trico washer pumps for $15. I ordered at 5:16 last night and it is "Out for delivery" at the moment. On the wheels, as I was prep'ing for powder coating yesterday I was remembering our conversation re what all the guy you used does for prep, and that got me to wondering if you'd gotten the wheels yet. Can't wait to at least see several pics of them, if not see them "in the flesh". As for the element, heating elements just do that. When I realized that the temp wasn't coming up as fast as it should have been I opened the door and that element was glowing WHITE in one spot. I quickly closed the door to keep the heat in, but realized that the element had developed a thin spot where the current was heating it way too hot and it would soon burn through. Sure enough, in a few minutes I heard it fall off and hit the rack. But not to fear, I have a bunch of heating elements. Several years ago I had another one burn out and I found a deal on several of them. So I'll just pull two screws and swap them out. Sorry, but when I typed "deal" I'm seeing Don Rickles as Crapgame in Kelly's Heroes saying "deal". Well, it continues. I got the Trico washer pump in and installed today - exactly according to the instructions with graphite on the seal. And it leaked. Not badly, but it leaked. The pump is going into the reservoir very easily, and it makes me feel like the bore is maybe too large. It is smooth, but it won't seal. So I cleaned everything up and put a bit of RTV on the sealing surface of the reservoir, a bit on the seal itself, slid the pump in place, and put the retainer in. I'll let it sit overnight and then test it tomorrow.

Poncho Loco had EEC-III. Very common in '82. The '82 I called Brownie had that, as did the '82 Explorer. TFI is Thick Film Integration, a technology Ford glommed onto for the ignition module. It was attached to the distributor in one of their Better Ideas - until they discovered that engine heat was killing them and they moved them to the fender. Read up on it on the page at Ford TFI Module National Class Settlement. A couple of extracts from that are: On December 9, 2002, after five years of litigation, a settlement was reached in a national class action in California, Howard v. Ford Motor Co., that reimbursed owners for ignition module failures that occurred within the first 100,000 miles, and extended the warranty to 100,000 miles for any vehicle still under this mileage. Twenty-two million Ford vehicles made from 1983 through 1995 have defective ignition modules that may cause the vehicle to stall and die on the highway at any time. Failure at highway speeds can cause the driver to lose control or even result in a stalled vehicle being hit by a truck. Some models had failure rates as high as 90%. According to Ford, two-thirds of the failures were of the "die on the road" type. The models affected have ignition modules mounted on the distributor and are listed below. When its temperature goes above 257 degrees Fahrenheit, the module is likely to cut out and cause the vehicle to die on the road. When the vehicle cools down, it can be restarted and will run until it again exceeds the design temperature. This is a hard problem to diagnose because by the time the vehicle gets towed to the dealer or sits in the shop waiting for repair, it has cooled down and no cause can be found for the stalling. During the 1980’s, NHTSA conducted five investigations into stalling in Ford vehicles. During those investigations, Ford withheld documents from NHTSA that would have shown a common cause of stalling — failure of the Thick Film Ignition (TFI) module mounted on the distributor when its temperature rises above 125 C and cuts out, causing the vehicle to stall on the highway. There are over 10 million vehicles still on American roads today that suffer from the same readily-correctable design defect that can cause the engine to stop abruptly and unexpectedly, at any time and at any speed, leaving the driver without power-assisted steering or brakes and the vehicle disabled. Vehicles with the distributor mounted TFI module have a 9% higher fatal crash rate than those with a different module system.

Beautiful, Andre! Well done! Please let us know what your new challenge is. You might even want to create a thread on it here, as others like Bill/85lebaront2 and Cory/Rembrant have done.

Yep, and I responded by taking a nap. Things looked a lot better after that. And brightened up even more when I found that Amazon has Trico washer pumps for $15. I ordered at 5:16 last night and it is "Out for delivery" at the moment. On the wheels, as I was prep'ing for powder coating yesterday I was remembering our conversation re what all the guy you used does for prep, and that got me to wondering if you'd gotten the wheels yet. Can't wait to at least see several pics of them, if not see them "in the flesh". As for the element, heating elements just do that. When I realized that the temp wasn't coming up as fast as it should have been I opened the door and that element was glowing WHITE in one spot. I quickly closed the door to keep the heat in, but realized that the element had developed a thin spot where the current was heating it way too hot and it would soon burn through. Sure enough, in a few minutes I heard it fall off and hit the rack. But not to fear, I have a bunch of heating elements. Several years ago I had another one burn out and I found a deal on several of them. So I'll just pull two screws and swap them out. Sorry, but when I typed "deal" I'm seeing Don Rickles as Crapgame in Kelly's Heroes saying "deal".

Thanks, John! And I have a few that John gave me, and I’ll mail them out to our international, meaning non-US, members. Just send me an email. HOWEVER, speaking of email, our email system is currently broken. The messages usually go through, but it doesn’t look like it does. So just tick the box that says “send me the email as well” and watch. I’ll bet it works.

Of those options the Saginaw sounds best. But are there any donor vans at the salvages there? And you need to map through what the A/C bracketry looks like. And the hoses. On Option 6, if I understand what you are saying you'd use spacers behind the pump's bracket to move it back so the pulley lines up with the belt. Right? But the pulley uses a smaller belt? Or the pulley is smaller in diameter so you need a shorter belt? This might work, assuming the pulley won't hit the bolt heads or the bracket. Have you pressed the pulley on to see?

I'm confused. I just responded on the redux thread where you said "I'd really like to not have to drop this tank again..." So, you just dropped it to do the seal? No wonder you don't want to drop it again. Anyway, is this thread a separate issue or is the redux thread discussing sort of the same thing? Or, are we talking about two different tanks on the same vehicle?

That's a bummer. But let me ask some questions. First, you said "The rear gauge and pump ground connectivity and resistance are good." But how are you measuring the connectivity and resistance of the ground? You can't just use the resistance scale on your meter as a connection can show as low resistance with low current, as with the meter's tiny current, and high resistance under load like with the pump. It would be better to check the voltage across the connection with the pump running. And check the voltage from the pump-side of the connection to a good ground with the pump running. The latter tells you if your ground is good, and the former tells you if the connection is good. Also you said "Again, with engine running, I get 10 V on the +, and connectivity is good on the - side. But the pump does not kick on." How was the engine running if the pump didn't kick on? Anyway, if the pump doesn't come on but you have 2 ohms of resistance across it then that seems to say you have a wiring problem or the pump is frozen. I think I would hit the pump with 12v directly from the battery and give it a known good ground. That way you are bypassing all of the many connections as well as the resistance wiring in the harness. Then if it doesn't work you know you have a bad pump.

Thanks for the offer, I'll let you know.

That's for sure! Nothing against Toyotas, but the ones from the 80's were small.

The leak is a shame on an engine that runs so well. But it isn't terribly hard to pull the engine and reseal it. As for the torque on the valve covers, you've run into exactly why I do NOT use Chiltons or Clymer books. They have too many errors. Ford's factory shop manuals do as well, but far fewer as they can't afford to have their mechanics ruining things on their dime. The FSM section (Documentation/Engine/Windsor) says that the spec is 3-5 ft-lbs. Your book says 11-14. Big difference.

That's good news, all 'round! Glad you got it running, and will look forward to meeting your daughter. On the sending unit being backwards, it'll be not only backwards but way off. The Bullnose senders are 10 ohms Full to 72 ohms Empty. The later sending units give 145 ohms Full and 22.5 ohms Empty. I am running a Meter Match to interface the later sending unit to the Bullnose gauge, and while it works it isn't ideal. It comes off of Full very quickly, hits 1/2 around 50 miles, and approaches empty by 100 miles. But it'll do another 90+ miles before running out. As Jim reminded me, there are intermediate set points on the Meter Match that I probably should play with to get its curve closer to right, but I've not taken the time. Some day I hope to put in an Arduino and already have the sketch written and tested for that.

I don't really doubt his methodology. I've read plenty of his stuff before. But it is the way it is put together that puts me off. An engineer should have enough logic in his head to know that a blog is not a reasonable way to organize things. Searching for things with a Cntl F and then having to wade through dozens of hits isn't on. Anyway, good luck! Keep us posted.

If it fit an 8' F150 frame it would fit an 8' F250/350 frame. That could handle it.

Congrat's, Chris!!!! Another prayer answered!

No way, Jose! An F150 w/a 300 six and a C6? And probably not even sway bars? (No pics of the suspension, but sway bars sure weren't common.)

Yes, that would be ironic. Bring it into the 21st century via FM.

That's the part about soccer I've never understood. Why stop with a tie? Play it off! Anyway, yes you should know those roads. I did as well. In fact when Janey and I were taking in the Rhine country back in 2013, staying in Bacharach, we were to fly out of Frankfurt so we drove in via Weisbaden and I showed her around. I know it was 2013 as we stayed in a hotel near the Flughafen and while at dinner we saw the headlines that a tornado had hit Moore, Oklahoma. It killed 24 people and injured 212, and the alerts on our phones kept us awake most of the night.

Good job! But you may want to carry a spare headlight - used ones may not last long.