Gary Lewis

Well, at least you figured it out. Well done!

Ok, that snip-it leads one to believe that it is almost certain to be a 4R70W behind a 5.0 in a 1996 F150 pickup. Thanks Gary. I mean, the 5.0 never really showed up in a "work/HD" truck anyway...so it's likely to be the Lighter Duty 4R70W, which is what I'd want anyway. I think the stand alone controllers for them work pretty well ya? From what I've heard, yes.

I didn't create a video of refurbishing the calipers because it was pretty straight forward. But this thread shows the results and discusses a couple of things about doing it. And this post details what I ordered.

Right. I read that it was in the 1995-1996 F150's behind the 5.0, but I've also read that it could be the E40D...but if that's the HD option, it would be odd to be in an otherwise plain Jane F150 with a 5.0...imho. Baumann says: So, apparently on a 5.0 you can have either?

Well, been there, done that, and now it is dirty. I actually powder coated the one for Big Blue, but then I took it offroading and it got dirty. Still, it cleans up so nicely that I'd do it again.

Hey, I'm selling a truck! And for not much money?

Motor Trend's article entitled Ford 4R70W TCI Automatic Transmission Rebuild says "This transmission was used for 10 years: 1993 to 2003 in the F-150 pickup..." So I think the answer is yes.

I was loving the build until I got to the compression ratio. I think you are giving away a lot of power by staying with 9.3:1. That's because aluminum heads cool the mix so well you can run almost a full point more of compression with the same fuel. So with those heads I'd want ~10.0:1 or maybe a bit more. It'll give you effectively 9+:1, but the setup you spec'd is going to be more like 8.3:1 IOW, stock.

Congrat's!!! Glad you got it out. But you can rebuild the caliper. They sell pistons and seals, which is all that needs to be replaced. I did it for Big Blue and they work great.

Nice! But I’d be worried about all the carbonation it must have.

Don't think I can help much, but here are my thoughts/questions: Pics 1, 2, & 3: Are these of the same connectors? Are there two connectors there? What are the wire colors going into them? Pics 4 & 5: the green connector looks to be the connector to the A/C compressor. But that is if it has one black wire and one Black/Yellow wire. Pic 5: That's a red wire going into the connector, right? Are there two wires coming out of the other half? What colors are they? And this is below the left hand hood hinge, right?

Cool! I’ll add the part numbers.

Happy to help.

Actually the VRV wouldn't cause that symptom. The factory shop manual section on the C6 (Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/C6 in the menu) says "Should a malfunction occur in the VRV, the valve will cause a 0 vacuum signal to be sent to the diaphragm which will cause delayed and harsh shifts to occur." To diagnose the problem you'd need to go to the section called General Automatic Transmission Service (Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/General Automatic Transmission Service). And I think what you are describing is what they call No Drive. And Page 14 of that document says: In other words, I think you have a transmission problem.

I suspect you've done a more thorough job than most people do on them, and I'll bet it shifts nicely.

Sounds like a good plan. Wasn't Vinyl Pro easy to work with?

Scott - That's a really interesting system: Traditional solutions for having a surround view parking system is that car owners have to install 4 cameras to different sides of the vehicle and it's too difficult and expensive for installation. ATOTO AC-SC3601 uses only one camera and it means you can install it like installing a common backup camera. You can watch the video to learn more: There is a operation system running on the inner chip hardware for continuously processing the images (receiving, storing, calculating,stitching) sent from camera,so it can help rebuild a dynamic,simulative but almost same-size ratio surroundings view (where the barriers, other vehicles, or your vehicle is). So it can compete a real 360-degree Bird's-eye view parking system, however with only single camera and a fraction amount of cost; ATOTO AC-SC3601 is quite helpful for driver to park large vehicles (full size sedan/SUV,van, light trucks) in a narrow or small space. This product supports reversing into parking space, including parallel, perpendicular parking, and angled parking, but it DOES NOT work for forward parking; ※[On selected S8 models, the feature has been integrated into the Android car stereo system, please choose AC-HD03 camera instead ] It can work with all the indash car monitor, rearview monitor, or on-dash monitor, as long as they have standard RCA type video input that is specified as reversed camera input. The difference in installation is, its control unit requires power supply, which is the same as powering an car stereo. You can connect the power wires ( +12v battery,+12v accessory, & ground) of ATOTO AC-SC3601 to car fuse box, or these wires that go to your car stereo as alternative if you can't find the car fuse box; Notifications: 1. Since the ATOTO AC-SC3601 parking system uses only one camera for surrounding view, the rebuilt surrounding view is not real image of the surroundings (but it is live/dynamic image). There is another area in the reversing display to show the real image of the rear surroundings (only rear view);2.The surrounding view functin DOES NOT work on a vehicle that has trailer, or a vehicle that has protrusion part (like tow hook) in the back; How it creates a birds-eye view from one camera befuddles me. That's a really slick trick. Janey's car does the birds-eye view using 4 cameras and it is a really useful function. However, the text I emboldened says it isn't going to work for Big Blue. Man, that would be cool to have a birds-eye view!

That’ll be a big change from a 302. I think you are going to love it.

I assumed so, but feel like people should be given a chance.

An E4OD is a beast? Yep! Looooong! So what is the diff between an E4 and a 4R70/75W?

Let’s see, 6700 lbs going in and 6000 going out, so you had a 700 lb load on the trailer. And since the trailer weighs 1700 lbs the truck must weigh 4300 lbs. Right? And you “noticed” the ~10% change? I think you’ve proven that you shouldn’t be pulling that crew cab, which is ~10 times heavier than today’s load. Doing some math, 4300 + 6400 + 1700 = 12,400. That’s more than what Big Blue is rated for, although I wouldn’t worry about doing it. But that’s not the kind of thing you’d want to do with a light F150 w/a 300 and AOD. That’s the kind of load a crew cab w/a 460 would be good for. 😉

Yes, it’ll be a C6. And an F350 crew cab may have 4.10 gears. But even it they are 3.55’s it’ll pull about anything - from one gas station to the next one. 😉

Yes, I've seen those as well. And that's the look I'm trying to stay away from. I want it to look like it came from the factory that way. Integrated. Like the headliner/Highliner, the F600 radio bezel and switches, etc. So to me the mirror display is the perfect solution. I hope they come through with it.

The bolt is the "key retaining screw"? Here's the procedure from the factory shop manual:

You are now on the map. But so FAR up there!