Gary Lewis

That's cool, Shaun! Glad you did it. As for hanging it, how about two hooks that go in where the glass would go in the top of the door?

Posted this on 14 pages on Facebook, so why not here? Having said that, I have all of the swag in and I must say that vendors are getting much less generous. Only Summit and LMC sent me anything this year, and only LMC sent me gift cards - two $25 ones. That's a far cry from what vendors were giving several years ago, and it has gotten less and less each year. And, this year I've been counting the costs, literally. I think I'll have to seriously consider having an entrance fee next year - assuming I do the show.

John/Machspeed - It is way too late to add a class/category this year. We picked up the trophies a week ago yesterday and the ballots are in for printing - both entrant as well as visitor ballots. Oh, and the entry/scoring sheets are in for printing as well - pretty much the same as last year but on 8 1/2 x 14" (legal) paper, which gives us a lot more room for scoring. We'll fold the extra 3" under while capturing the entrance details, then fold out to score. But a survivor is really hard to define. Some of the "big boys" have a rule that X% of the parts have to be original, but how would we determine that? Scott/WelderScott's 1978 is currently a survivor in my book as all that has been changed is what wears out, like plugs and the water pump. But he hopes to have it painted at some point, including having the rust repaired - so would that mean it isn't a survivor? That's a tough one to figure out. And, would it be fair to pit 1987 and later survivors against much earlier survivors? Yes, we can discuss this, but there are lots of questions in my mind - as you can tell. The guy you are thinking of is Steve, aka FoxFord33 here on the forum. But don't forget that Jeff flew his drone and captured some wonderful video as well. In any event, Steve isn't available this year so at this point we don't have anyone to take pics, much less video. So if any of you that are coming have a drone or are good with a camera please jump in here! We need some help.

If it is that hard to get the other heads then I'd probably pass. But I'd also not make plans until I knew what the issue is with the engine and oil consumption. Hopefully the problem is in the heads, like the valve seals.

Nice trucks! And you are now on the map.

Welcome, Dwayne! Glad you joined. What part of Manitoba? I ask because we have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, and we can add you with a city or postal code. Show us pics of the trucks? We even like non-Bullnose projects, so feel free to not only show but start a thread on the '58 if you want. We are a community and like to follow what our members are into.

DAHIK.

Glad it worked out for you.

From a manufacturing perspective fasteners that require turning are really expensive to install. I don't know how adhesives compare if they need to be held in place while they cure, but anything that can be pushed straight on/in is much quicker. At my company we really use no threaded fasteners. I'm sure Ford had a good reason for installing the trim the way they did, but it doesn't make it easy for us decades later. Anyway, I took the tape off the trim today and had a little bit of cleanup to do, like getting the excess off and out of the cracks as well as to get the tape's adhesive off the paint. But all that was done pretty easily and then I spotted something else to do - the rear bumper's rubber trim. Every since I got the truck the rear bumper's trim has been broken off before the front retainer slot on both sides. Today I decided to fix that. Fortunately Vernon had ordered in a NOS piece for the left side, but I had to use the one off Dad's rear bumper for the right side. Still, even that made a big difference - as you can see below.. So now Big Blue is ready for his detailing appointment tomorrow.

You have got to be kidding me. They'll ban a 4+" squat but allow Fart Cans? What's going on down there? According to Hemmings: But there is more to read on that page.

I've always liked Hayden coolers. But there are several good brands, including Derale.

E5TH 7A095-BA ID# crosses to PN E5TZ 7A095-B. And that was used on 1983 & 4 F250's & 350's with a 7.5L & s C6.

I think you said you found mud in the bottom of the pan - right? Did you also drain the torque converter at that time? If you did replace all of the fluid then you shouldn't need snake oil. But some of that stuff has some serious seal-swelling additives and maybe that's what it took to get the clutches to work?

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. That's quite the stable! Where's home? I'm guessing CA or AZ? I ask because we have a map, which you can see on our page at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map, and we can add you with a city/state or zip. So, which one(s) are you working on?

Yes. Monster has the C6 Torque Converter 1300-1650 Heavy Duty Low Stall torque converter. I'm not recommending Monster as some have had problems with them IIRC, but the idea is the same.

It isn't truly covered. It depends on the voting, and the entrants are the judges. We are a small show. The big boys have people who think they know everything about a particular class and they award points based on originality. We used to give a ballot to everyone that walked in, but we were getting wonky results. So we've gone sorta half way. We have the entrants, who probably know more about Ford trucks than the guests do, cast the votes for the various categories. And if they really like a truck, be it a survivor like Scott's or a highly-modified truck like Big Blue, they've vote for it. But then we go crosswise and have the categories like best engine, best interior, etc. So any given truck has more than one chance to win.

You aren't wanting to heat the whole thing 'cause when you do that both the flywheel and ring gear grow the same amount. You'll need to heat the ring gear to get it bigger and walk it off with a drift. Go around and around and around, trying to keep just the ring gear hot and walking it off. Then you turn the flywheel over and reverse the above procedure to walk the new ring gear on. I think I even had wet rags on the flywheel trying to keep it cool so it didn't grow as much as the ring gear.

Yikes! Glad it quite now instead of part way up here in just over a week. You might consider a torque converter with less slip. They are available and with the 460 I doubt you need much slippage. The reduced loss will help on MPG and reduce the temp of the fluid.

Scott Ringler/WelderScott's 1978 F150 won his class last year, and it is a survivor. Go look at Jeff's video from last year and stop at 37 seconds. That's his mostly-red truck.

Ok guys, the votes are on on the votes - the entrants will vote for everything and the visitors will vote for Crowd Favorite. Here are the ballots I've created, but please let me know soonest if you see a problem - before I have them printed on 3x5 cards.

I agree with Jim - good and not so good. But I disagree with him slightly - replacing the ring gear on the flywheel for Dad's truck took me at least half of a day. Yes, I'm old and slow. But part of that was due to only having a MAPP gas torch. Still, it wasn't hard, just slow and tedious.

Ok, I'm getting the feeling that the majority like the more involved joining process. So let's give it a try - it doesn't have to be permanent. However, it is confusing to me to have the signature line say "Enter information about yourself and your truck..." and then the next step to be to create an introduction post. I like Jeff's suggestion of it reading more like "It will be much easier to help you if you create a signature here which contains a short description of your truck specifications (model, year, engine, tranny, and whatever info you think is important). If needed, you can complete and/or modify these info later in your profile." Chris - Can you make those changes? Let's give this a try.

Nice box, Joe. As for what I did, I glued the trim back on in many places on Big Blue today. With the shows coming, both ours as well as the one in my home town, I wanted the trim to be stuck down well. And today's the day 'cause I'm having the truck detailed on Saturday by the young man across the street, so I need the glue to be set up and the excess removed. So I'll do the untaping and cleaning up tomorrow. As for how I did it, I used 3M's 08061 Plastic And Emblem Adhesive. But before applying it I cleaned both the rubber trim & aluminum strip with a Q-Tip soaked with O'Reilly's Brake Cleaner. That got the old adhesive off and also cleans up the new adhesive after it dries on most thing - but not fingers so far. The tape (hull saver, Jim) is applied from the bottom and pulled up to ensure that the rubber is seated against the lip of the aluminum strip. I stretched it pretty tight and it seems to hold well. But tomorrow we will find out how well this "takes".

I think your glue may be old. Mine is as clear as water, as shown below. And there's a bonus shot showing how I'm doing it. But for more info, I'm using O'Reilly's Brake Cleaner on a Qtip to clean behind the rubber, and I've found that it cleans the dried glue off of most things - but not fingers so far.

I've had that happen, and w/o a return spring on the carb linkage itself it could have been bad as I was climbing a steep hill and had quite a bit of throttle on it.