Gary Lewis

If you are going with a 1-wire then yes, I'd leave the 1G wiring in place and tape it up. And it would be wise to buy a new regulator at the same time as the new alternator, so remove the regulator and tape its connector up. But if you are converting the ammeter to a voltmeter you have one other change to make in the original wiring. You need to provide both battery voltage and ground to the voltmeter, but only when the key is on or you'll run the battery down powering the voltmeter 24x7. One way is shown below. It uses the original wiring that runs to the ammeter, but you remove the yellow/light green wire from S202 and take it to a relay that grounds it when the key is turned on. Another, probably easier, way to do that is shown below. Don't mind that it shows a 3G alternator, you can still wire the 1-wire as in the previous schematic with the large wire going to the battery side of the starter relay, although I'd recommend installing a fuse in the circuit. But if you wire the voltmeter this way you won't have to have the relay in the previous approach.

That is not correct. The big terminal that goes to the starter only has power in Start, not Run. So if that's where you have the blue wire then that is a problem. All fuse links that go to the starter relay go on the battery terminal, not the starter terminal.

I think there's a lot of science involved in figuring out via an equation what pressure to use. And it involves the wheel width, tire section width, tire sidewall stiffness, and the weight that is on it. Instead of trying to do that I have been using the driveway to my shop as the tool. It doesn't get much traffic so the top of it "chalks" and when you drive over it you can see on the tire what part of the tread touches and what part doesn't. And I adjust my tire pressure down until I just get full coverage. But recently someone suggested a different approach to me. And that is to drive over a piece of cardboard and then inspect the cardboard. Supposedly you can tell by the shape of the depression in the cardboard how much pressure each part of the tread has on it, and you want it even. I've not tried that yet, but it sounds promising.

Thanks, I dont have to cancel the order from Jegs but what I may do is put the pushrods on my paypal credit and once they ship I can then cancel my jegs order and put the refunded money onto my paypal credit as a payment. On the wall thickness I couldnt say either. AFR states to run 0.120" wall thickness pushrods since there are guide plates but yet you can buy 0.080-0.083" wall thickness pushrods that are hardened for use with guide plates. I know the mass of the pushrod doesnt matter from a performance stand point but with the price difference I dont see the point in spending the extra money if the 0.083" wall thickness is already overkill for my application. I think you have a good plan.

Depending on what you are going to do you may not need to remove the shunt. It is just a smaller wire and is capable of handling the full output of the 70A 1G alternators, so if you move the alternator output to the starter relay then the shunt will only be seeing the current into the cab. And it is very unlikely that you'll pull over 70A in the cab. As shown on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ammeter I measured the voltage required to peg 4 different ammeters, and it took from .102 volts to .156 volts depending on the ammeter. In other words, that's probably the voltage drop across the shunt when carrying 60 - 70 amps. And that isn't much voltage drop. But, if you really want to eliminate the shunt just cut it out and put a larger piece of wire in its place between S201 and S202.

First, I missed the previous post, but your fuel line looks great. Well done. On the push rods, do you have to cancel the first order? The odds of you getting both aren't high, but that could happen I guess. But I don't have any suggestions for you on the wall thickness. I'm not up to speed with push rods. Sorry.

John - It was in the corner, between the lathe and the blasting cabinet. Can't do w/o it. Yes, that boring tool is great. You can increase the radius in .001" increments. And I hope to take about .060"out of the lower side. Somehow the hole appears to be high and to the outside, as you can see in the pic below. So I'm hoping to find the center and get the radius right, and then shift the head down and in and at the same time increase the radius by the same amount. Does that make sense?

Given that description, which helps my understanding a bunch, I'd guess that your oil pressure switch isn't closing and that causes the fuel pump not to run when in Run. I would put a jumper across the switch to bypass it and see if that causes the truck to run.

If you like electronics and enjoy working on them, by all means man, get 'er done! I'm a card carrying member of the Bullnose Instrument Cluster Anti-Defamation League, so I'm one of those guys that's always hollering about how good the factory stuff works, LOL. However, I have been known to take on projects that were not understood by others, so I'm not the one who will tell you not to do it. As Gary said, post up some pictures! Cory - I think the factory gauges are good, but only after you replace the ICVR with a true voltage regulator. That is the single highest failure item related to the gauges. And it is a wonky design. Having said that, I really like the fact that my aftermarket gauges have scales. Sure makes me happy to see exactly what the temp is instead of "O" or "R" or whatever..

Thanks, Dane. Bill - Thanks, but... Eventually I'll find the end of the tunnel. You got out of the tunnel, and with your help I think I can. But I'm sure there will be some locomotives, and maybe even long trains, coming at me before getting there.

I'm confused. The carb stays full of fuel over night, but when you start it the carb loses fuel? Where does the fuel go - into the engine or on top of the engine?

Good point, Bill. I caught that bit about the throttle going forward, but hadn't put 2 & 2 together that the throttle going forward was the cause of it stalling and not the other way around.

Well, I did get the throttle cable and the ignition coil done, but there's more of a story to tell than that. I pulled Huck's throttle cable out and checked it over closely. It is in pretty good shape, but I wondered about replacing it so checked out Rock Auto. They seem to think the cable should be either 37 1/2 or 43 1/4" long when the one I have measures 36 1/4" from the point where the ball goes in to the ferrule on the other end. I don't know exactly how they measure, but the 37 1/4" might be the one. However, not knowing and having one that is in decent shape, I cleaned it up, shot it full of my favorite sticky lube (PJ's Chain Lube), and installed it. After all, it is a pretty easy job to replace it later - if I need to do that. Then I pulled out the coil mount I made probably two years ago and dug the coils out. However none of the coils I have are up to my cosmetic standards, so I removed the best coil from its bracket and painted the coil and powder coated the bracket. And they are now installed. Meanwhile the new speed control deactivation switch (SCDS) and cable came in. As promised, here's a comparison of the new switch and harness on the top and the old harness on the bottom. (I've thrown the old, red, SCDS away.) Note how small and tidy the new harness is as opposed to the old gangly one, which is the 2nd version -the one with two fuses and the label that says the fuses can't be replaced. Also note that the connectors on the right ends of the harnii are different. The TSB says you have to use the new harness, and indeed you do as the old one won't plug into the new switch. Anyway, I followed the TSB's directions and installed the new SCDS and harness. And here's a shot of the engine compartment that is gradually coming into the 90's. You can see the throttle cable on the left, coil & bracket in the middle, and SCDS and harness on the far right. And with that done I started thinking about installing the upper plenum. But I remembered that I want to enlarge its openings where the throttle body mounts since there's a mismatch. I've been wondering how to do that, and then it dawned on me I could tilt the head of the mill, bolt the plenum to the table, and use the boring bar to open up the hole. Here's a shot of what that looks like: And here's a closeup where you can see my scribe marks. I still have a bit of dialing in to do, but should get that done tomorrow and then open the plenum up a bit. If that goes well maybe I can get the plenum and throttle body mounted, although I need to install the TPS on the throttle body and it'll be easier to adjust it on the bench than on the truck. As said, lots and lots of things to do, but eventually there will be light at the end of the tunnel.

First, you have misjudged me. I'm no genius in anything, much less electronics. However, I like your idea of packaging it better/different. Please take plenty of pictures!

You may have dislodged something when you moved the needles. On an Edelbrock I blow out the idle passages with compressed air, but on your carb you might damage the accelerator pump or the power valve, so I wouldn't do that. But, how far out did you finally get the screws? I'd think they would be around 2 turns out, and if you didn't get them that far I'd open them up a bit and try, then open up more and try. I think you are just way lean. Having said that, I'm going to ask Bill to come help with this.

When you post the pics you should walk through the Insert Image dialog instead of posting a link. That way the image is permanently part of this forum even if where you have it stored goes away. For instance, I just copied your link and pasted it into the line shown below, after wiping out the "http://" that is already in there. And I got this:

Moved and mapped.

LOL! Yes, it was a good day. The through-the-firewall stuff isn't my favorite thing to do, but that part of it is done. Today I'll tackle the throttle cable, which is much longer for the EFI'd 460's. Then maybe the ignition coil. We'll see. There are just so MANY things to do it is hard to focus. But my plan has been to get the engine and its components in place so I can then turn to the wiring. And that's where it gets tedious.

You are going to have to get very familiar with the 1986 EVTM - Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual. It is a Ford document and is available here: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM's/1986 EVTM. Once going there you have to pick the section. In this case you need these sections: Electronic Engine Control: This gives you the schematics specific to the EEC system. Electric Fuel Pump Control: Schematics for the fuel pump's circuits, including on Page 107 an illustration showing where the fuel pump cutoff relay is - near the brake booster. But don't miss the inertia switch in the feed to the relay. It is near the passenger's left foot and if it trips there is no power to the pump, even if the relay works. Charge/Power Distribution: Shows the power circuits, and on Page 15 it shows that Fuse Link S attaches to the starter relay.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip. I look forward to seeing pics of your Bronco. As for your electrical problems, you really need to start a thread in the main section on that as it'll get more attention there than here. This folder is really just for introductions. So, would it be ok if I moved this to the main section? Meanwhile I'll attempt to answer your questions in my next post.

I think all of Ford's distributors breakerless distributors use an adapter like this. I believe the reason for it is to keep the same distributor size, and maybe casting, but allow for a much bigger cap to move the terminals apart farther due to the high voltages involved. Here's the info on the 300 six, and the ebay advert seems to see this fits the 300. And here's the MPC illustration of a 4 and 6 cylinder dizzy.

Bill - I haven't played with the Ideal Gas Law since college - and don't want to. I was just curious where you got the numbers. (But I do remember that PV = nRT. ) Rusty - That's why Bill has a spare, although it is in my shop, and I intend to have one - or more. Big Blue isn't the only usage of the EEC-V system I plan. Dad's truck is to get the same treatment, so I'm using BB as the guinea pig. (Ouch! Did I just liken a 460 to a pig? ) In other words, this isn't just a one-off exercise. In fact, our member and my friend Steve Fox/Foxford33 has a Jeep Grand Wagoneer and we've discussed going with EEC-V on it. The system doesn't care what brand engine it is controlling, but Steve has said he might go w/a 351W and an E4OD. We can do that, but we could also do any other engine if we can graft on a compatible TPS.

I think it pulls people in when they see the opening scene of a video.

They are expensive but they are getting cheaper though and eventually you will have to upgrade to them as speed shops are constantly throwing away obsolete tuning equipment and the foxbody era equipment is getting quite hard to find. We did a exhaust and some goodies on a surburban at work only one guy in all of the US could tune the old OBDI GM computer and we had to mail it to him. That is why I always make sure to mention it because in OE stock form you should be fine it is when you start making changes and need someone to tune it that you realize its getting harder and harder to find someone. Its a big reason why if I toss my sniper and go OE EFI I will be going with the holley system as its easier to locate a tuner local. I didnt think this kind of period would be upon us so soon I thought we would get to the 2040`s before tuners of the OBDI era computers were obsolete considering the huge following OBDI vehicles have in the hotrod world. But everything now is late model swap, 5.0 Coyote, 7.3 Godzilla, LS. Rusty - I think once I tune the truck then I'll not have to worry about it. As Bill has done, I'll probably "burn" another ECU with the same parameters. But then it'll be replacing components when they fail. Both Bill and I have Binary Editor so can tune Ford's EEC-V ECU's. I've not truly done it myself, but I watched as the guy from Core Tuning did the initial setup on my ECU where he turned off EGR, the 3rd O2 sensor, purge solenoids, etc. But once I get the truck running on the system I know I'll have to play with ignition timing and other parameters. So, I have a lot to learn. But I believe it is a once-and-done thing. From that point you put the scan tool on and read the codes.

I think I can now answer my own question. EEC-V systems don't have a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor as they determine both the air volume and density via the MAF sensor. This page on "Mass Airflow MAF Sensors" says: And, as I think about it, Bills spreadsheet shows spec's in lb/min, so that takes into account density. And other places talk about grams/second - again taking into account the density of the air. Bill - That then begs the question of how you got the CFM #'s. I ask because what I've found says that to get standard cubic feet/minute the air has to be at 0C and 1 atmosphere of pressure. And in that case you divide the lb/min by 0.0805321 and get SCFM. Using that calc on the F8LF MAF sensor at 5.00 volts your #'s show 598.398 CFM and mine show 556.548 SCFM. Said another way, your #'s are 8% higher than mine.