Gary Lewis

Jeff - I hadn’t heard about that, but let me try it as I’m using 15.4.1 as well. Well, it put it right where I had the cursor. BUT when I tried to put a here I saw that the cursor did go back to the beginning. And playing with it I see that I have to be careful as I touch the smiley symbol to get the list to drop down. A little bit off and the cursor goes back to the start.

Yes, I hope it stays working!

That's a good writeup. Thanks!

Man, that looks like a lot of WORK! (I'm seeing Maynard G. Krebs.) It took me a while to understand what all you did, but I think I have it now. But that's a lot of cut off wheels, so that must have taken a lot of time. And the concern of how to do it w/o cutting too much of the tube. I'll bet you are glad that is done. On to the fabrication!

Cory - You are highly encouraged to hang out here! As for locating the engine, installing the engine and tranny multiple times would be a pain! Did you have to dangle them from the engine hoist while you slid around underneath to see where the bent pipes would fit? But I'm glad you found a place that will work. Maybe now the enthusiasm for the project will come back?

Are you one of a pair of twins?

Excellent!! My family is kind of like yours. Janey hasn't driven Blue, which is easy to drive, much less Big Blue. Our daughter grew up driving a stick, and lived in Nicaragua until recently where she drove a stick daily. But our son doesn't YET know how to drive one. However he wants to go overlanding. In fact, we have a trip planned for this fall. So he is going to learn. And I know he's interested 'cause last fall when my brother and I took BB to Colorado there was a guy with a drone taking videos. At one point he put his drone on BB's hood, leaned on the truck to watch, and then took off and shot a bunch of video. When I sent the link to the video to our son he said "Why is that guy leaning on my truck?"

Wow! That shiny monster fits under the hood, leaving enough place for the fan housing? It’s really nice (too much?) risky that first bug you’ll hit will probably make you cry. Happy to take pics of it. Not sure if I'll get to the shop tomorrow, but hopefully at least by Monday. And I understand about not understanding. I'm in waaaaay over my head and am looking forward to getting a pro to do the final tweaking. And yes, it'll fit. Or, at least its twin sister fits. (Twins can't be identical if brother and sister, but you'd be surprised how many people have asked our grandtwins if they are identical.) As for bugs, Big Blue is built to use. He has scars from the adventures he's been on, and will surely get more. So I'm not too worried about bugs. Now for some of the "over my head stuff". The chart below shows the first 672 seconds (11 minutes plus) of startup from cold: Engine Coolant Temp in Yellow: Starts at 65F and goes up in a straight line until it hits 182F and the thermostat opens and it drops to 165F due to the coolant in the radiator rushing in. Then it goes back up to 176F at the end of the log. AFR in Blue: At startup it goes to 16.9, then there's a little squiggle and it goes up to about 17.7. After that it drifts slowly down until the spot where the system goes into closed-loop control, which is shown by the white line coming in, where it is running about 15.6:1. Learned Fuel Trim in White: The white lines, and there are two, that pop up about 2/3's of the way through are the Learned Fuel Trims, one for each side. I think that the point they pop up is when the system goes into closed-loop control, and you can see the AFR comes down to ~15:1 when that happens. And that is at 151F on the engine coolant temp. Engine RPM in Red: At startup the R's go to 1300 in a flash but come down to 900 immediately, and then drifts down to ~550 at the 50 second point. From there is slowly moves up until it hits 670 just before the end of the trace, and then drops to the desired idle speed of 650 right at the end. So I still have some learning and tuning to do as 550 RPM on a "cold" engine isn't what I'm looking for. And since you don't get to "cold start" the truck but about once a day with the weather we are headed into this may take a number of tries. But I have it down from the 1300 RPM it used to idle at when "cold", so I'm sure I can get it back up there part way.

That's cool stuff. But you got the slide locks and the shift boot ring as well? Those are rare!

I'm in no way a pro. But fuse links are usually installed at one end or the other of a regular wire. For instance, in the schematic below the fuse links that are connected to the starter relay then typically connect to a regular wire that goes on to carry a load.

Good points, Scott. And that's a lot of the reason that Big Blue doesn't have many fuse links. But he has two in parallel in the power feed from the passenger's side PDB to driver's side PDB. That's a stock link for a 90's Ford truck. That link crosses the radiator so seriously needs to be protected in case of an accident. If I'd not found a factory link for that feed I would probably have made one and used a megafuse to protect it. Maybe something like the Littelfuse 0MEG150.XP MEGA BP Slo-Blo Automotive Bolt-Down Fuse. I'm not sure 150A would be enough as I can parallel the batteries and use both for starting or running the winch. But they make several sizes so I'm sure I could find the right one.

I do have new outside door locks but because the sliders are missing the rods have nothing to connect to and that jambs up so you cant use the outside locks. I only take the truck to work and there are cameras, or shows so not to far away and the windows are down so people can look in (no key left in). If I take it to a store its not left alone for long. Besides if someone wants to get inside they will break a window and if they want the truck they will come with a wheel lift tow truck or flat bed and drag it away. The only way to maybe get it back is if it had a GPS tracker and the police had time to go after it. Hate to say it but that is the way it is. Dave ---- Yes. they can drag Big Blue away, but it'll be noisy doing so as the alarm system will be making tons of racket. And if the truck is found the microSD card in the mirror will have pictures of the perpetrators.

I rate Champion Cooling very highly. Here's why: I bought one of their 4-core aluminum radiators for Big Blue in October of 2020. It fit nicely and worked well, but unfortunately it started leaking. I tried to contact Stay Cool, the distributor that fulfilled the order I placed with Amazon, but couldn't as their phone numbers were "Out of service". I contacted Amazon who sent a note to Stay Cool on April 29th, and Stay Cool replied the same day with "These radiators have a life time warranty. We can ship a new one to replace the defective unit. Thank you." But I replied to them asking when it will ship and as of today, 8 days later, I've not gotten a reply nor a radiator from them. Given that and the fact that the MC1451 shows as out of stock, I called Champion and Cara answered. I told her my tale of woe and she apologized. Then she looked up my order and was able to find it in their system. However, the 4-row MC1451 radiator was out of stock and they didn't know when it would be available. But Cara asked me to give her some time and went away to scour all of their distributors - to no avail. Then she turned to the warehouse and was able to fine one, and one only, MC1451. And it arrived here today!

How would you rate Champion Cooling Systems?

So maybe it has something to do with cookies? Or cache? Anyway, glad it is working. But I've not given up on getting it sorted.

Sounds like your son's gauge went bad. But I can't recommend any set as I have an ancient on my father gave me. Haven't had to buy one. And I haven't put them on this spring so should do that, as you pointed out. No use wasting a can or two if it is really low.

Jim - Yes, that's pretty much as I expected as well. Bill - Thanks for looking. That's what Ben found as well. But I set it to 3.0 and went for a spin. We'll discuss the results thereof in a bit. But first, I also set the table for Idle Air Adder For ECT up differently in an attempt to get a bit more idle RPM when the engine was cold. It didn't work and I need to figure out why as it raised the idle RPM when the engine was almost warm but not when cold. So more research is needed there. Next, I got this delivered to my door today. That's not only a 4-row but it is polished! More glitz. So I stopped by the parts store while we were out and got more coolant. And now on to the manifold size. I've put the two WOT runs side by side with the one with the manifold size at 5 on the left and 3 on the right. And even though the zoom factor is a bit different you can see that it helped to lower the value. But it is hard to tell so here are the #'s: ACTION 5.0 AFR 3.0 AFR 2nd gear lift: 11.3 11.6 3rd gear WOT 14.0 13.4 3rd gear lift 11.4 11.4 4th gear WOT 13.5 13.4 4th gear lift 10.6 12.9 (Not sure this is relevant as I stayed in 4th at reduced throttle) So while it helped, I'm not sure where to go with it. I think I'll tell Ben about it and let him worry about it when he tunes it. (Unless he thinks the tune is reasonably close and suggests I make a few changes and forgo the dyno.)

No locks? I only leave BB unlocked when he's in the shop.

Nope, what you see is all they were. I can't understand why Ford went to these in the first place. Cant use a coat hanger to unlock the door like you can on the pin type:nabble_smiley_evil: Dave ---- Didn't that only work on the ones like below? I was thinking the same thing, Shaun. Big Blue's pins sink down to the point you can barely get a grip on them when they are locked, much less hook them with something.

Bummer! I had hoped you had it figured out - and I was going to follow your lead. Big Blue's compressor won't come in, so I bought two cans. But I don't have dye in, so maybe better get some.

Reviewing this, it looks like the main difference in AFR for the WOT runs between open and closed loop was the starting AFR. In other words, the AFR is virtually the same once the pedal hits the metal. And, as I think about it, that's it should be since at some throttle setting before WOT the system goes into open loop mode. Since what I've read says 12.6:1 gives best torque, it looks like the fuel part of the system is pretty close. But, there is something in the runs that Ben will probably investigate, and that's the rise of the AFR as the throttle is stabbed and drop as the throttle is opened. When he was logged into the system the other night he looked at Manifold Size In Liters, which is set to 5.0. He didn't think that was right but when he pulled up another 460 tune he found it at 5.0 as well so he left it alone. But the explanation in BE for that parameter says: Here's the log for C/L with red arrows showing tip outs and green arrows showing tip ins. Looks to me like that exactly fits the definition of the manifold volume being too high. Does that make sense to y'all?

Questions: 1- Clarify their goal (compared to a normal circuit protected at the fuses panel); A fuse link, as Ford calls them, can take an overcurrent for far longer than a fuse can. So if you have a short or an overload the fuse will blow and the fuselink probably won't. 2- Any difference between using a «fused wire» or a Fusible Link (see pictures); Yes. A fused wire has a normal fuse in it and will blow much more quickly that a fuse link with a similar rating when you have a short or overload. 3- Under the hood, how to see difference between a regular wire and a Fusible Link; The EVTMs show where the fuse links are supposed to be, so you could check that way. But the insulation on a fuse link is different than that of a normal wire. It is probably a silicone-based plastic, and it feels rubbery and slick in comparison to the other wires. And there will be a splice at the end of it to the normal wire. 4- How determine how much «strong» a Fusible has to be, when replaced. Good question. The EVTM tells the color and the wire size of each fuse link, but not the length. So if you have one blown you just replace it with a fuse link wire of the same size and length. But if someone replaced a fuse link on your truck with regular wire it might not be the same length. 5- Can à Fusible Link simply prolong a regular longer wire. Sorry, I don't understand that question.

Fixed it for you, Cory. But I agree with all else you said.

In spite of the fact that it won't run and has rust, it might be worth the $2500 since it is a Bronco. But it would take a LOT of work.