Gary Lewis

Well, you are making progress! Yes, you'll always find a number of unexpected problems as you go, but that's what I call "peeling the onion". Peel and cry, peel and cry, but soon you'll have enough to have an onion ring fry-up. On the transmission, I'd add a can of something like Seafoam for transmissions. And after shifting into reverse and then forward several times I'd then see if the level is down again as the torque converter might have been dry and took some of what you added. Also, see if the vacuum modulator is bad. They can develop a leak and that will suck transmission fluid into the engine. You can check that by trying to pull a vacuum on the modulator. Or pull the engine end of the hose to the modulator to see if it is dry. And if you still can't get it to go into forward gears drive it as much as you can and as fast as you dare in reverse. I'm told that doing so will move fluid through passages rapidly and that may clean out some gunk. And you have to get the additive, like Seafoam, to move around in the system to do its job. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

I think it has character. Could be really neat. But if it isn't running then you can't find out what problems it has beyond what you are told, and there are always many of those. So I think the price is a bit high. However, for your area with all the salt that's probably used on the roads it may not be too high if there isn't a lot of rust that isn't apparent in the pics. Are you planning to start it before buying it? Or take it home and then see if it'll start? Either way if it hasn't been started in years then I would want to pull the plugs to spray a lube into the cylinders. And I'd want to replace the gas in the tank - and the best way to do that is to replace the tank itself. And while replacing the tank replace the rubber hoses that go from the tank to the hard line & hard line to the fuel pump.

PROGRESS!!!!!!!!!!! The relay block is a very good idea and, as you explained, minimizes the # of wires in the run as well as the overall circuit lengths. That should help a lot on the motors' abilities to get the job done. And getting the top on is a huge milestone, even if you think it needs to be replaced at some point. Just getting it on is a big step.

As I've been reading what I can find on BE and how to use it to tune I've come across several places on the internet and need to document them so I can get back to them. I'll add more if/when I find them. Ben Head of Core Tuning: This link takes you to a selection of 10 videos. And since BE comes from Core Tuning this is obviously one of the first places someone should go when trying to learn. I've watched all of the 10 videos, some multiple times, and learned something significant each and every time. I've not yet met Ben, who lives in the OKC area, but expect to do so in the next few months - either when I have him dyno Big Blue or maybe if he decides to come to the show in Sept. Leech Motorsports: This link takes you to 52 videos, currently, of which I've only watched a couple. But they are good and I intend to watch many more of them. Leech Motorsports is in Stroud, OK and that's not far from me in Skiatook. I've talked to Cody Lemon of Leech on the phone and it looks like he may come to the show along with his father and another, one of which has a Bullnose and one an OBS. Anyway, their specialty is EEC-IV systems with MAF, but they obviously know their way around BE and EFI. And they may well come to the show in Sept. Fuel Control: This page gets into things I truly do not understand, but obviously the author does. And while it is a difficult read since I don't really understand all of what he's saying, it is an interesting read nonetheless.

Gary is always very colorful, this image is so true! This is why this community is so valuable and helpful, keeping us smiling while crying! The "peel & cry" bit applies to me, for sure. Got the truck together maybe a year ago and since then the brand new radiator sprang a leak, the idler pulley froze and shredded the belt, and in writing a new "tune" to the ECU there was a glitch that "bricked" the ECU. And I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Oh yes, the left turn signal brings the dash lights on. But two steps forward and one backward is still progress and, as Jim/Ardwrkntrk says, "Progress is good!"

Bummer! That rear gas tank is not the easiest to get to, for sure. Hope you get it replaced easily.

Looks great, John! Wonderful pics. Love that lake. Spent much of my youth on it, although at the very north end. I assume you were at Taylor's Ferry?

You are now on the map. And I see you are just barely in the US - if I got the right spot. As for the pics, when you want to post you might want to start a thread in the main section about your truck. You could have "before" pics and then pics for when you pick it up and as you peel the onion. Oh yes, I should tell you about that. I liken these trucks to onions. Lots and lots of problems, one on top of another. We peel and cry, peel and cry. But pretty soon we have a Bloomin' Onion!

You like it, Dane? I'm y'all can use it.

Ok, I think I'm there. The major problem was that pesky "s" of https. Nabble doesn't like that in its macros, but works fine with http so I cut the "s" out. And I have downsized the finger's-crossed emoticon to 20 pixels wide by 27 high. That makes it slightly taller than most others, so y'all tell me - is it too tall? Here are a few with which to compare:

Randy - Welcome! Glad you joined. Do you have pics of the truck? We'd like to see them. And where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city/state or zip.

Buy a kit, which should include all of that as well as an alignment tool. I like Luk brand clutches, but I'm sure there are others that are equally good.

Bummer! But leaky A/C seems to be a thing right now as BB's compressor won't engage w/o jumpering the switch. Anyway, hope you figure out what the problem is - easily.

I'm in the middle of trying to add a crossed-fingers emoticon. But as you'll see, it isn't working - yet. :nabble_https://www:

Yep, I've met some guys like that. As for what I did today, I got the wide-band AFR meter installed - all but the O2 sensor. Yes, I've had it installed before, although in a quick/dirty sort of way. But this time I wanted it "right", so I pulled the dash cover and tied into power & "lights on" at the clock connector. With one of my cheap waterproof connectors on the end of those wires plus the ground wire, and a matching one on the gauge I had the gauge itself wired. Then I fished the serial cable through the dash to the gauge and connected it to the "Out" connector. And I downloaded the programming software for the gauge and installed it on this tablet. So now all I have to do is to calibrate the gauge with the sensor. That requires powering up for at least 30 seconds w/o the sensor, which will delete the previous calibration. Then power down, connect the sensor, and power back up. After a minute or so the calibration will be done and I can install the sensor. Then I can log both the true AFR from the wide band as well as all of the parameters from the ECU, including the AFR the ECU is calling for - the "commanded" AFR. And from what I've read the way you dial in the fuel part of the "tune" is to change the MAF table such that the "commanded" AFR from the ECU is the same as the actual AFR from the wide band. When they match fuel is dialed in. So it will be very interesting to see how close the actual AFR and the commanded AFR are. Wish me luck! (We need a crossed-fingers emoji.)

That's the day Dad's truck will be done. What a coincidink!

My first question is WHY? Wouldn’t it have the worst traits of both worlds????!!

How 'bout posting the pics in a new thread to tell us how to do it?

Bummer! So when is the new engine going in?

Bill - Please don't miss the "What do you see" question above. BUT, I see a huge difference in my Dashpot Maximum Based off Vehicle Speed vs yours. In the screen snag below mine is on the left and yours on the right. This is the table I modified to get the R's to come down when shifting, but it also made a major difference in compression braking. The way yours is set up you have a whole lot of dashpot built in at all speeds. And with your Dashpot MPH to Enable Declutch Clip of 20 MPH you'll have a high RPM when coasting until you hit 20, and then it'll start coming down - slowly. If I were you I'd change it to something like .2 all the way and test it. That should give you plenty of ISC airflow to have a good idle and not stall, but make a big difference in compression braking above 20 MPH. Then if that works drop it to .1 and see if you still have a good idle.

Bill - Thanks! Here are the differences I'm seeing in scalars, with my value on the left and yours on the right. I've included things that don't matter to me due to my config but thought you might like to see them. And I see some things I want to explore, like Misfire Min RPM. That could prevent the misfire error. What do you see? Scalar Gary Bill Units Comment ACT Based Adder for "X" Time 20 5 Seconds Don't yet know what this is Bank 1 Downstream Rear HEGO Heater 1 0 Switch I should turn this off Canister Purge Flow Test Disabled Enabled Switch And yet I'm getting an error Dashpot MPH to Enable Declutch Clip 10 20 MPH Didn't change anything on Big Blue Decceleration Calibration 900 1800 DEG/TIC^2/F# Don't understand this ECT Lowest For DFSO 110 0 Deg F DFSO is Deceleration Fuel Shut Off ECT Stabilization Time 8 0 Seconds Time to set flag to use O/L tables EGR System Type Disabled Sonic Switch Equilibrium Intake Surface Fuel Multiplier .125 .0938 Multiplier Larger INCREASES fuel in transition Exhaust Temp Control Maximum Lambda 13.18 13.17 AFR Fan Cntl ACT Delta to Resume Changing 4 8 Deg F I'm not controlling a fan Highest ECT For Misfire Test 250 -20 Deg F Doubt this is "it" as I don't hit 200 Highest RPM For Inferred Movement 4000 4750 RPM ???? Idle Increase for Startup 0 104 RPM Add'l RPM added to clear engine Idle Increase for Startup Time Sensitive 0 2 Sec 'Buzz RPM' added at startup Idle Speed in Drive 648 704 RPM Idle Speed in Neutral 648 800 RPM Limit For MPH .02539 .09961 MPH ??? Load maximum to enable DFSO .09 .10 Load DFSO is Deceleration Fuel Shut Off Lower Limit to Enter Dashpot RPM Cntl .4 .120 LBS/MIN Lowest ECT Req'd To Use Rear Bias Cntl 120 160 Deg F Lowest MPH Shift Confirm For 1st - 2nd 15 14.5 MPH Lowest MPH Shift Confirm For 2nd - 3rd 26 22 MPH Lowest MPH Shift Confirm For 3rd - 4th 41.5 40 MPH Lowest RPM For Misfire Background Test 600 6000 RPM Lowest RPM To Turn Fuel On 200 400 RPM Lowest RPM To Use Proportional Bias 1000 1200 RPM Lowest Time In CL Before Bias Trim 10 3 Sec Lowest TP Confirm For 3rd - 4th Shift .64 .54 Volts Min Time after Crank to Allow Misfire Mon 255 240 Sec Misfire Percentage Limit For Emissions .02499 .03101 % Misfire RPM Minimum 600 6000 RPM This could be IT! Neutral to Drive Transition Delay .375 .750 Sec P0385 901 0 None Misfire code P1746 EPC Open Circuit Fault Up Cntr 25 10 Events EPC Solenoid Open Circuit Rear Bias Control Highest ECT 210 220 Deg F Rev Limit 0 Low Gear Enabled 4800 7000 RPM Is this in Low Range? There's an input. Rev Limit Neutral Enable 4800 7000 RPM RPM above idle to enable DFSO 700 800 RPM SW For OBD2 MIL 247 118 Bit/Mask SW For OBD2 Test 243 114 Bit/Mask Throttle Prog @ Low TP Accel To Unlock 50 75 ADCT throttle progression can unlock TQ Time Con for Idle Intgr Underspeed 5 3 Sec Transmission Load 1 6 Enum 1 = Manual no switches: 6 = Auto Transmission Type 0 4 Enum 0=no trans cntl; 4=C6E4 (E4OD) WOT Shift RPM 1st - 2nd 4x4 Low 8000 4300 RPM You don't have 4wd & I have a manual WOT Shift RPM 2nd - 3rd 4x4 Low 8000 4300 RPM You don't have 4wd & I have a manual WOT Shift RPM 3rd - 4th 4x4 Low 8000 4300 RPM You don't have 4wd & I have a manual

Coil and capacitor look good. But that kickdown screw looks odd. Does the head hit the lever at the rear to kick the tranny down? If so, could you turn the whole thing around and Loctite a nut on the very end of the screw to hit the linkage? On the canister purge system and the temp switch, have you looked at our manual called Understanding Emissions Control Systems? Starting on Page 3-13, which is the 50th page, there is a 25 page detailed description of how the systems work. And on Page 1-9, which is the 14th page in the document, there are descriptions of when the various valves and switches open. Maybe that will help?

Excellent! Thanks for the update, Ron.