Gary Lewis

It wouldn't be easy to test an injector on your own. The biggest issue is getting fuel to it, and the connection is via the fuel rail that is rigid. So you'd essentially need another fuel rail and then cut off one of the connectors to use. And then if you got fuel to it you'd have to have roughly the right pressure as too little pressure and it might not leak, and too much and it may leak even if it is good. I think I'd buy a new injector.

He's not a beauty. Maybe a bruty. But he gets the job done.

Can't wait to see the pic.

If we have someone(s) that know their way around CSS and could help me make some mods maybe we could solve this problem. But it is beyond my knowledge level. Sorry! Help?

Yep, I knew you knew. In fact, you helped design it. But others might not know about it so I wanted to mention it. As for the axle ratios, I've not been around many trucks with the 300 six. But the V8 trucks I've been around mostly have 3.50/3.55 gears, and w/o an overdrive the engines are spinning pretty fast on the highway.

14 - 14.5 is good. It is possible the 12.5 - 13 caused the soot.

Nice!

Rare, and rarely used - 1986 only: 86 F150/350 E6TZ 9A050-C #E6TB 9A050-AB - 6 terminals

80/89 F100/350,F(Super Duty) — tilt wheel "Before 10/88" Upper-r/b E9TZ 3524-E, Shaft assy., E9TZ 3E715-B, Actuator assy.

Good points, Jim. So is the choke staying on? That would make it quite rich, but it shouldn't cause that soot. But a cam with a lot of overlap might.

Do you have the EGR system still in place? (I doubt it, but need to ask.) That soot is what I've seen from engines with EGR. And you said "At 65mph i was in the 14-14.5 range". Is that now or before? I assume now and that's a good range.

The floor in the shop is still dry, so I'm claiming victory on the cooling system leak(s). So I turned to the EFI system tuning. I'm still trying to get the idle on a "cold" start where I want it, so today I put the Idle Air Adder For ECT table back to stock. And that meant going from an adder of 96 RPM to 304 RPM at anything below 86F and then ramping to 0 RPM adder at 160F. I expected that to give 1300 RPM for several seconds on startup, but it didn't. So I'm guessing that my changes to another parameter has limited the ability for the computer to raise the idle, and I have to figure that out. Anyway, here's the chart showing idle RPM. I should have included the AFR as it got up to 16.3:1 at the point where the RPM was lowest, and at the white line it slowly dropped to 15.3 and the RPM came up. And after that, since you can't do another "cold" start until tomorrow, I gave Big Blue a bath. I think he's now ready to go to the A/C shop in the morning.

Use the calculator at Documentation/Driveline/Calculators to see gear ratios, do what-ifs, etc. It is loaded with the gear ratios for most of the transmissions you might be interested in, and there's an Other column where you can add another tranny if you want to compare. And there's a place to put in an overdrive unit's gear ratio. Looking at the cert label I see an F for the tranny, so that's a T18 which has a 3.09:1 2nd gear and the M5OD has a 3.90 1st gear. So starting from a stop would be easy with the M5OD - unless you are pulling a heavy trailer, and then that may take some clutch slipping. (Or, do as Jonathan does and start in 4Lo, but that's not for the faint-of-heart.) Anyway, you can use the calculator to see what speed you'd be running in any gear with any transmission, axle ratio, or tire size.

It is normal, although not a feature I like - assuming it goes away if you scroll back up a couple of clicks. Right?

As you can see, we have the same opinion on the mounting style that ubolts to the frame rail Gary has it lucky with the D60 since he can go with a factory (and legit looking) setup. For us with the TTB (44/50), aside from the picture I took which won't work with your coil setup and may not even really work with mine, this is the most solid I've seen: https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/dana-44-50-steering-stabilizer.html Scott - I wasn't aware that there's a factory bracket for the D60. So now I need to be on the lookout for one of those. And I'll report for John/Machspeed, although maybe he'll have more details soon. He told me the other day that a friend that's a guru with CAD and metal-working stopped by to take some measurements and is going to make something that John thinks will be strong and look "factory". So maybe there will be a neat solution for the TTB crowd.

Amen, brother! That is the worst example I've ever seen. And you are right about the timing chain - replace it while you are in there.

Thanks, David.

Ouch! Those are going to be a serious problem. There are two approaches. My approach on my vehicle would be to clean the area where the bolt meets the timing cover and then try to get the timing cover off. But that requires removing the fuel pump, and it means you need the timing cover gasket and pan repair gasket. It is more work and if the bolts are really corroded to the timing cover you may not be able to get it off without a LOT of struggle. But if you do you can then properly get the bolts out of the block. On the other hand you may not get it off w/o destroying the timing cover as sometimes the bolts are REALLY married to the cover, and in that case you have created a lot of work. The other approach is to get the ones out you can and drill/tap the ones you can't. On the ones that protrude I'd weld a nut on them. But the others you'll have to drill and then tap, and do your best to get the drill bit centered in the bolt. Whichever way you go, slather the new bolts with some preventative! Some use anti-seize, but Jim has me using Loctite 56747 PST High Temperature Thread Sealant. It isn't cheap, but it will sure prevent things like this in the future.

Jeff - I've not tried two clamps, but I have had some problems over the years with leakage so have been thinking about the best way to solve that. I think moving the clamps next to the ring is a good first step, and it frees up enough room to install a second clamp I'll do it - especially on the lower radiator hose which is hard to see.

That's not the selling price, that's the hoped-for price. However, here's what Hagerty shows for a value:

Thanks, Scott. I'm happy to say that there is no coolant on the floor of the shop, which is a first in quite some time, so I do hope the cooling system is "there". Yes, the loss of A/C has put the kibosh on the idea of taking the truck for a 100 mile spin tomorrow. Way too warm for comfort. But hopefully they'll figure out what the problem is on Friday, although fixing it will probably take a bit more time. As for the shroud, I really doubt I'll go electric since the belt-driven fan is working quite nicely. But I'm happy to be prepared just in case. However, I am curious to see what you learn in your testing.

It certainly looks like a 302. That's a 5.0 upper intake. The 351 EFI upper intake had the Ford oval and a big "5.8" in the middle. The 5.8 would also have different intake ducting, and it would have been serpentine belt, etc. As far as I know (and Rick may correct me here) but I'm pretty sure that the 5.0 upper intake does not work with the 5.8 EFI lower intake...at least not well. They may bolt together, but the ports are quite a bit different. I'd say it's got the stock 5.0 in it, with an AOD, and more than likely a 3.55 geared 8.8 rear diff! Thanks. That pretty well confirms what I was thinking.

Yes, if the clamp/hose slides I'd expect it to stop at the ring - assuming it is reasonably snug to start with. As for original placement of the clamp, I think these show what I'm trying to say, but I've exaggerated the swelling of the hose to make the point.

I think you can use the gauge you have to do the tuning since you know that 16 is actually 20". You really don't need all that much accuracy for vacuum, just repeatability. So I'd be trying to figure out why your AFR goes down into the 12's for the lower gears but not in 4th. And the question would be if there's a difference in vacuum for the gears.

The AVS2 is one of the easiest carbs to tune. Loosen the screw and swivel the plates out of the way and you can change the rods and springs, which lets you richen or lean the mix at cruise and determine when the enrichment happens for power. And if you really need to change jets just pull the cover w/o spilling a drop of gas.