Gary Lewis

Did Adam set that for you? I ask because there is no documentation explaining what it should be set to. But I've set mine to 0 in the tune I have ready to write to the ECU in the morning, and I'll see if that fixes it. Also, there are two other parameters I stumbled on today that I want to check out. They are: Throttle Body Air Flow: Both of ours are set to .80005 lbs/min. But the comments say: This is the air flow through the throttle body when the butterfly is closed against the idle stop screw and the ISC Duty Cycle is zero or blocked off. Depending on the strategy this can be in lb/min or in kg/hr. This value is used by the PCM to determine the desired air flow through the ISC. The PCM will calculate the ISC air flow by using what is defined in Function 875N/D and subtracting the following: Throttle Body Air Flow Purge Valve Leakage Multiplier * (Purge Duty Cycle - Purge Duty Cycle Offset) Unmetered Air Flow for PCV Unmetered Air Due to Air Leakage (Not all strategies have this) After the above parameters are subtracted from the desired airflow, the ISC Duty Cycle is then looked up and applied to the ISC. With the engine fully warmed and the idle steady, adjust the throttle body stop screw so that the ISC Duty Cycle is roughly 25-30 %. Note the logging parameter IPSIBR and add or subtract its value from the Throttle Body Air Flow. Unmetered Air Due to Air Leakage: Both of ours are set to .04980 lbs/min. But the comments say: This value is added to the MAF as un metered air from things like the PCV and vacuum leaks. To calculate leakage plug all vacuum, canister purge and PCV line feeding the intake. Take a same of idle MAF and then re attach all lines that were previously disconned or blocked off. Record the MAF at an idle again. The difference is the air leakage. Lastly we have to conver that value to the EEC Standard pressure and temperature. Here is the formula. Delta MAF *(29.875/Barometric Pressure) * Square Root ((ACT+460)/560) = Air Leakage Two other things added to the MAF as unmeter air 1) Canister Purge air 2) Brake booster air I'm not sure where my extra R's on cold starts are coming from and am wondering if these might factor into that so wanted to document them.

Interesting approach, Angelo. Hope it works. But the truck is looking good.

I did a compare between Bill's tune and mine on BE and looked specifically at P0385, which is the "misfire code". Mine is set to 901 and Bill's is set to 0, and he doesn't get the error. So I guess the next move is to set mine to 0 and see if that prevents getting the error. But some reading suggests that the "code" is a bit mask for the ECU, and there's no explanation for what the various bits tell the ECU. Still, if it turns the error off and doesn't cause other problems I guess I really don't need to know. So I know what I'll be trying tomorrow...

And now for another chart, and a few observations. This was taken after I wrote the above changes to the ECU, and essentially all of it was just idling in the driveway. RPM: This is the green line, and it initially goes to 1500 and stays there save for the dip when I came out on the clutch in Reverse to get the truck out of the shop. DSDRPM: This is the yellow line and is "Desired RPM ". It is a calculated value which explains why it is steady at 1245 RPM initially, and then comes down to 950 for about 20 seconds, and then finally drops to 640 and stays there for the rest of the log. ISCDTY: This is the idle speed control duty cycle and is the purple line. Notice how it has the same shape as the desired RPM trace and, for the most part, the RPM trace. Also note how it jumps up for 60 seconds close to the end of the log. That's when I turned the A/C on and the ECU called for more idle air. But the idle RPM didn't change at all. One thing I don't understand, probably of many things, is the RPM. It is not equal to the desired RPM, especially at startup and the first 15 seconds thereafter. And the RPM gradually creeps up to more than the desired RPM towards the end. But in neither case is there a correction in desired RPM.

Welcome, Jordan! Glad you joined. It isn't a problem not having a Bullnose. We have people on here who don't even have a truck, much less a Bullnose. And we have an admin that has a truck like yours. So, what part of east TN? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you with a town. How 'bout showing us some pics of your truck? (You might want to read how to do that on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.)

Jeff - I understand your position. You want to know, and may use the info in the future. But you'd like it documented just in case. And, I'd actually like to document it. But I'm still somewhat in the heat of battle so I'm not ready to do that. And here's more about what I'm doing. First, the used O2 sensor from Huck seems to be working fine. The error message did not come back after letting the truck warm up for 10 minutes, and then taking it to Sonic for some celebratory drinks. But, I'm now wondering how the gas mileage might have been different on our run on Saturday had that O2 sensor been working? I think we were essentially in open loop on the left bank, so what might the MPG have been had it been running in closed loop? Also, the canister purge error hasn't come back. I changed a bunch of things, as shown below, that showed up in a search for the word "purge" in Binary Editor. But, I'd bet it was the P0443 Switch that was the issue as it was set to set to 1091 and the comment says to set it to 0 to disable the message. Anyway, here's what I changed: PARAMETER WAS TO COMMENT Canister Purge Minimum Vehicle Speed 0 127.5 Set it to maximum Cold Start Delay #1 For Purge 0 255 Set it to maximum Cold Start Delay #2 For Purge 0 255 Set it to maximum Highest Load To Enable Purge Test .45 0 Set it to minimum Highest MPH For Purge Test 1.0 0 Set it to minimum Highest # of Purge Tries Per Key Cycle 5 0 Set it to minimum Lowest Load To Enable Purge Test .10 2.0 Set it to maximum Lowest MPH For Purge Test 0 127.5 Set it to maximum P0443 Switch 1091 0 Comments say to set to 0 to disable Part Throttle & WOT Delay Time For Purge 0 255 Set it to maximum Purge Delay When In Open Loop 120 255 Set it to maximum Purge Hot Start Delay 0 255 Set it to maximum Purge Valve Leakage Multiplier .17 0 S/B 0 if purge is disabled Purge Warm Start Delay #1 40 255 Set it to maximum Purge Warm Start Delay #2 0 255 Set it to maximum

Yes, that should work well.

Thanks for the additional info, Bill. Ok, this morning I decided it was time to figure out why I still have the Ewissions light on, so I put my scanner on instead of Binary Editor as it seems easier. Here's what I got: Hmmm, Bank 2 Sensor 1 is the driver's side front, so I slide under and looked. Yup, either it had already hit the driveshaft before taking it to the exhaust shop or the guy at the shop bent it. But, it sure looked bad, as you'll see below. My first thought was to replace that one from Amazon, but it'll be several days before it could get here. However, I have the one from Huck's speed density system, and while I don't know if it is good it is worth a try. The first problem was that its connector has pins/tabs on it that the connector on the truck doesn't have, so I removed them. The next problem was that it didn't have a gasket, and the one on the bent sensor did not want to come off. But with a cabinet of old spark plugs, some of which have the same threads, I found a new gasket that fit nicely. Then I discovered welding spatter on the sealing surface of the bung, so some work with a file was needed. But after that it all went together nicely and I'm getting ready for a short trip to test it.

Bill - Thanks. Jeff, let me pick it up from there a bit. If you are thinking of using a factory EEC system on Big Brother with its 5.8L then you have two choices: EEC-IV: These are, for the most part, speed density/bank-fire systems, although I do think there were some that had MAF and sequential injection on the Mustangs. The difference is that a SD system only knows what is in its program while the MAF systems learn. So you have to stay pretty much stock with the engine or the SD system can't cope. EEC-V: These are MAF & sequential and can take mods to the system. Plus they have an OBD-II port. But the trucks that have this setup will be later model ones, like 1996, so the availability is less than IV systems. In either case you'll have mods to make to your wiring, and we can talk you through that. And, you'll have to make some mods to either the EEC wiring or to the truck itself. For instance, I think all of the EEC-IV, and I know all of the EEC-V, systems for a 5.8L in the trucks had the ECU in the kick panel. So you either have to mod the truck to put it there, which is what Bill did, or lengthen the wiring to put the EEC where Ford had it in the Bullnose trucks, which is what I did. But, you are in better shape than Bill and I were as there are both IV and V systems for your engine, where an EEC-V system for a 460 is really, REALLY rare. (Some guys don't believe there ever was one.) So if you stay somewhat stock you could get by w/o re-programming the ECU for a different engine. On the other hand, if you do away with catalytic converters, or EGR, or other such things then you'll have to re-program the ECU, and that means you'll need Binary Editor, a Mongoose cable, and a lot of learning. Been there, doing that...

What's the silvery stuff? Has someone already attempted to repair the manifold? Or is it something that just melted on it? Have you tried to remove the silvery stuff with a screwdriver or something sharp?

Oh no! So sorry! But enjoy your time at the beach, and don't get too sun burned.

Thanks, Jim. I was really pleased. No, THRILLED! And I really believe there is a bit more to be had. Jeff - No, there's isn't a how-to thread on installing factory EFI on one of these trucks. Only two of us have done it, and mine is buried in this thread along with lots of other stuff. But for the most part you could go back to the beginning of the year on this thread and follow it through as there wasn't much else done on the truck but EFI. The other person that's done it is Bill/85lebaront2, and he did it while we were all back on FTE. So if there is anything about it I suspect it is back there. Maybe he can comment? However, I do want to make sure I explain why Big Blue has been such a Jekyll & Hyde experience with the carb and EFI. I believe that is mainly to do with the size & design of the lower plenum, aka intake manifold. Big Blue's old, very worn out, 460 ran pretty good on the carb with an Edelbrock Performer intake and matching carb, but never turned in more than 12 MPG, and it was usually in the high 11's. Then I put the new engine in and used the EFI lower plenum and a carb adapter since I was planning the move to EFI. That worked, sorta, but I never got the kind of seamless power out of it that the old engine had. It just didn't want to pull below 1200 RPM when the old engine pulled from idle. Nor did I realize the improved MPG I expected from a new engine. I believe a lot of that was due to the design of the lower plenum. It was never intended to carry fuel suspended in the air, so it doesn't keep the velocity of the air up enough and the fuel drops out of suspension at low RPM's. And because of that the engine just didn't want to pull down low. Kind of like installing a high-rise single-plane intake on a street-driven engine, which is a no-no. So, would I do this all over again? YES! In fact I'm going to do so on Dad's truck, which is going to get an EEC-V system as well. But, that isn't to say that the factory EFI systems are better than an aftermarket system. My goal is mainly to have a system that can easily be maintained by my offspring, who will inherit these trucks, and I believe the best way to do that is to give them a "factory" system with an OBD-II port that any mechanic can diagnose and repair. So for a younger person I might suggest looking at an aftermarket system. They are less complex, especially in the software, and are designed to be easily installed.

I assume by "the page here describing the front end grille" you mean the one at Documentation/Fasteners & Illustrations/Radiator & Grille. On that page there is at least one of those captive nuts shown with a blue box around it. If you click that blue box it'll take you to the page for 385579-S2, and that page says "This is a stamped Tinnerman/U-nut that is for a #8-18 screw. It is 11/32" wide and .41" thick, and has a black phosphate finish. Fastenal has them as #11120280 and Auveco has them as 10666."

I agree, Jim. But I'm also thinking about the day-to-day operation where just a bit of fan is needed and not 100% of one much less both. For instance, when we took Big Blue out the other day it was about 90F and we were running the A/C, but as we drove the temp stayed at 186F - except for when we got stopped at road construction with a one-lane road and a timed light. We sat there for maybe 5 minutes and I watched the temp come up to the high 190's and was thinking that maybe the idle air adder based on ECT would kick in and spin the fan faster. But it is set to 0 at 214F, goes to 176 at 220F, and then 304 at 230F, so never came into play. Anyway, that is the kind of situation where PWM would work nicely. You could spin one fan at maybe 50% any time the A/C compressor is in, and then bring it on up smoothly as the ECT comes up until you need the 2nd fan.

I once borrowed a trailer and was told it needed some wiring. Then I discovered it had been in a fire and had no wiring. Not for the lights nor the brakes, some of which had never worked. But the bulk of the damage was underneath on the trailer due to it being in a grass fire, so it may be on the Bronco as well.

I don't see the fire damage. I would think it is well worth the asking price.

There you go! You already know how to optimize it for sale.

Not a bad price. Would probably require a few new fuel system components, like a new tank and fuel pump, but in the right hands could be a nice vehicle.

That .71 OD of the E4OD is hard to beat, and I'm looking forward to getting Dad's truck on the road with the E4OD and 3.50's. The ZF5 in BB has a .76 OD and it works pretty well. Drop it into 5th and it'll motor up about anything w/o shifting. As for what I mentioned earlier, I've been looking at the parameters that might have caused the idle to go to 1300 RPM this morning for several seconds. I'll bet part of it is the one below with the highlighted value for 160F being 304. Looking at a previous data log it took about 70 seconds for the engine coolant temp to go from 66F to 86F. So that would mean the RPM would have 304 added to base idle speed of 648, meaning it would be 952. And then it would start down slowly to an adder of 0 at 160F, but that takes another 6 minutes. That means there's another 300+ RPM somewhere else that I haven't found.

Really nice Bronco. Looks like you could jump in it and drive it home. And it does have a nice spare tire cover.

I'm running 3.55's. And when I was running the carb I was kicking myself for going with those gears as I could have just as easily gone with 4.10's and thought it needed them. But now that it pulls so much better from idle these gears are working great. Ben, the guy from Core Tuning, took a look at the timing table and said it doesn't have enough advance. So I'm thinking that there's more to be had in MPG.

Yes, that is a really nice bracket. Now you are going to have to sell them.

Very true. I'd pull the switch and clean it with electrical cleaner/lube and give that a try. This kind of problem usually crops up late in the year as it gets colder and the grease sets up, but as warm as it is in Atlanta I was assuming that it isn't a lube problem. But it might be.

My truck has a 460, so I can't say how other L&L's fit.

There are four different sets of contacts in that switch, although the schematic below only shows three, and they don't all make/break at the same time. I've seen plenty of times when a truck has started and is running but the accessories don't work. Usually rolling the switch back a bit more brings them on. In your case you are getting power to the R/LB wire, but probably not to the WH/LB wire that goes to the Red wire on the module - except in exactly the right position. So I'm thinking the switch has gone bad. Good luck, though. I'm sure you'll get it fixed easily.