Gary Lewis

Some forums get upset if you don't do your own searching before asking questions. Personally, I don't think that is appropriate as it assumes that you know what to search for and that there are answers for your question. Since I see most things posted here I know what's available and usually how to find it. So I'm happy to look things up for people here.

I ran the tune Ben sent me last night and sent him the log. He sent another one and I ran it and sent him the log. His response was "Everything looks really good now. If the CEL comes on you need to get a stored code." So I asked him if we are done as I'm not sure adaptive is turned on. We'll see what he says. And, the CEL has come back on. As I told him earlier, I can clear it but it then comes back on later and neither BE nor my app finds a code. So I think he is suggesting it is a stored code that needs to be cleared. Not sure how to find that, but I guess I'll go see. Also, this happened today and it is all John's fault. He didn't like the steering wheel cocked about 1/8th turn CCW and suggested I fix it. But, what he didn't know is that one of the puller holes was stripped out. So I spent considerable time tapping that hole 3/8-16 as opposed to the 5/16-24 it should have been. Man, is that metal tough! And, it is hard to get to when the wheel is installed. But, of course, you can't remove the wheel until you tap it. Catch-22.

Beautiful!

If it attaches to the outside of the frame and has turn-ups front and rear then the bolts to the frame might be enough.

It used to be that the local auto parts stores carried the replacement glass, but I've not seen it in a while. But this place says they have the stuff.

We had a thread on it, called Steering Dampers/Stabilizers, recently. You might read that. There are other discussions of "steering dampers", as you'll see in the results of a search here, and you could poke around in those as well.

No such thing as a Bullnose "high boy". The truck's been lifted. Not saying that's a bad thing, but sometimes they don't drive well. But, if done right they can. Anyone notice the steering bracket damper on the frame. Looks like John's favorite style.

Yes, that's the way I figure things out as well. Stare at them, doodle a bit, go away, sleep on it, and usually something comes to mind. Speaking of which, will the skid plate be flat? If it is curved up on the right and left ends I wonder if you could put the bolts that secure the skid plate up on the ends, out of the way of rocks. But in order to ensure the plate isn't moved fore/aft put pins on it that go through holes in the crossmember.

Ben got back with me this afternoon and sent another tune. I'll write it to the ECU in the morning and go log some more data and send it to Ben. As I've said, one of the nice features of Binary Editor is the ability to compare tunes. And here's a comparo of the tune I've been using, which is a stock M/T 460 tune with my changes for EGR, etc with Ben's. Here's a summary of what I think he's done, but there are lots of details available if I double-click the rows from Mass Air Flow Curve down. Highest Air Charge Temp (ACT) and Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) To Enable Adaptive Learning: I don't think these values will ever come into play, but he raised them. Idle Speed In Drive & Neutral: Not sure these come into play either since it is a manual transmission, but we shall see. Lowest ACT To Enable Adaptive Learning: I think he locked it out of adaptive learning with this parameter. That allows him to dial it in w/o the computer changing things. Lowest Allowed Spark At Idle: He raised the minimum spark advance at idle by 7 degrees. It will be interesting to see what happens. However, I currently have the initial timing at 13 and I'll dial it back to the stock value of 10, so the change is only 4 degrees. Lowest ECT To Enable Adaptive Learning: Again he's locked adaptive learning out. Mass Air Flow Curve: He's raised the curve a little bit pretty much across the board. WOT Fuel Multiplier: He changed the values across the board. But the comments in this table say "This should never be utilized except in the case where the calibrator is testing fuel delivery thresholds." So I'm sure that is what Ben is doing. Base Open Loop Fuel Table Stabilized: From a load value of .6 up the table values have been changed. And the comments say "Comanded fueling after the vehicle has reached the stable ECT for a predetermined time." Spark Borderline Knock Threshold: Looks like he bumped light load/low RPM timing up by 1 degree, and heavy load/high RPM by 1/2 degree.

I think you have a good list, but agree that anything that moves and wears should be suspect as well. But I'm not sure the hoses qualify. Still, when the system is apart is the time to replace anything like that, so it won't hurt.

Glad you didn't have damage, but sorry for those who did. Must be devastating. The cart looks great! And bed rail is one of my favorite materials. Very strong!

Well, we have others posting non-Bullnose things, like Cory's truck and Bob's early Bronco. Oh yes, Bill's Lebaron & Jonathan's house. I think all of those are in Projects, and I'm ok with other non-Bullnose things going there. We all have other things going on in our lives. But you are thinking about a section/folder called Anything Else? Can you give me some examples?

Congrat's! I've always liked the looks of those.

That welding turned out well. And the video is great! Beautiful Norwegian scenery and then an American V8 rumbling by. On the AFR, what you've described is exactly what I've seen with carbs. I don't understand why backing off the throttle slightly causes it to go rich, but it does. And easing into it causes it to go lean. But your numbers are good. Leaning out to 15.5 is fine and won't cause loss of power. But you are going about as rich as you'd want when WOT gets to 10.

The part may look like Frankenstein but it should go back in fairly well. And I know what you mean about it being a shame that you have to. Still, it'll work out. On the skid plate, can you use countersunk screws to hold it on?

I may have found something, and I hope I can explain it. The parameters "SW For OBD2 MIL" and "SW For OBD2 Test" show as the "units" being "BITMASK". To an old programmer that tells me that the mask determines if the MIL can be turned on for each of the functions and if the test is even to be run. In the comments there's a table that shows what each bit is for, and there are 8 bits. That suggests the code is octal, and while I spent many years reading octal for PDP8's I turned to this decoder to make sure I was doing it correctly. Hopefully this makes sense to y'all. The numbers like "247" and "243" are the numbers in the tune, and you can see how they decode. And it seems to say that both my tune and Ben's are set up for the misfire test to be run and for it to light up the MIL when it doesn't. And both are set up to light the MIL if the purge test fails, but the purge test isn't to be run. What I'm thinking is that this is an easier way to turn things on and off than what I've been doing.

Since I'd found a bad O2 sensor I realized that the closed-loop file I'd sent Ben Head was probably not good, so I sent him the latest log file just to make sure he didn't work on a bad one. Got a note back with a new tune he wanted me to try, and from the title of it I think he's turned adaptive learning off. He had me unhook the battery cable for a few minutes to reset the ECU, then load the tune, and drive it. I've just done that an emailed him the results. But he also said "The tune looks really close. Is there anything it is doing you don't like?" I responded that the MIL came back on and it looks like the EGR may not be fully disabled. And that I'm trying to get the idle where I want it, but overall it is running good. We shall see what he comes back with.

Well, so much for that. The Ewissions light is back on. I just started the truck and it came on. Hooked the laptop up and BE said there were no codes. But on the OBDII/DTC page it says that EGR system is supported/true, but that it hasn't completed, meaning it is false. So I hooked up my phone with the EOBD-Facile app and it showed what you see below. From everything I've read a P0000 just says there are no codes. Right? So I'm thinking that I still don't have the EGR fully turned off.

Ok, the change of P0385 from 901 to 0 appears to have prevented the ECU from reporting a misfire error, so I now appear to have all of the errors turned off. IOW the Ewissions light is turned off. So now I'm working on other details, and will report what I'm looking at here so I can track it. The first thing I'm seeing is the idle speed. On a cold start the desired RPM was at 1240 but actual RPM went to about 1450, so there's an extra 200+ RPM between desired and actual. Then after warmup the desired was at 640 but actual was at 760, so a delta of 120. Last, after a drive during which I took it to WOT and ran up through the gears so it got fully warmed up, the desired was still 640 but actual was at 790, for a delta of 150 RPM.

Bill - I know you know this, but for anyone else reading along, let me put a little more meat on the bones Bill sketched out. Finding things in Binary Editor is pretty easy, in spite of the huge number of parameters to change and datapoints to log. In the screenshot below I've circled in red the Search icon in the upper left, which will then pop up the Search window shown on the right. The red arrow points to "misfire" as the search term, and the results are shown below. But, there are 86 results, 20 of which are parameters that can be changed and 66 of which are datapoints that can be logged. And in the datapoint list you can see the misfire per 1000 revolutions for each cylinder. So yes, you can see which cylinder is having problems and how often - assuming you have the misfire detection apparatus, which we don't have.

I probably have pics of my Saginaw, but I’m running serpentine belts, or as Bill says, polygroove since there are two belts. Would that help?

Interesting! But I doubt my use of aluminum cans is going to help your addiction. I buy my Coke in plastic bottles and only go through about 1 every 2 weeks - a far cry from my younger years.

Brother, I fully understand! Did you save the piece that came out of the frame? Or, did it come out in one piece? I'd think you could put it back and maybe fishplate some of the joints for insurance. And, can you somehow use the lowered crossmember to support the skid plate? Another win-win? Last, where are the pics?

I wouldn't take the deflector off. It looks good and every little bit helps on MPG. And I fully understand about finding it in the parking lot. Big Blue certainly doesn't hide either.

You are now on the map. Interesting that you have Alcoa wheels in Alcoa. Glad you got it running so easily. Bummer about the vandalism, but sounds like you'll get the sorted. Nice flatbed on the truck.