Gary Lewis

Yes, it is basically that simple. However, the hardware needs to be a close fit, and if I remember correctly that is a metric bolt... Yep, that bolt is N606084 and that is an M12 70mm long and it is a 9.8, which is roughly a G5. So you might be able to get a 1/2" bolt in there. I don't know.

That does look good.

WOW! You are doing such a thorough, and well thought out job.

You are thinking just like me. Do I replace it or is it good? Personally, I would buy a new one and then, when I had it in hand, I would pull the one out and check it over. If it is perfect then I'd put it back. If not, replace it.

:nabble_anim_claps::nabble_anim_claps:

I thought I'd follow up in case anyone else comes across the same issue. Having been driving on the new calipers (which included all new keys, springs and hold-down bolts) for a while now, the problem seems to be fixed (knocks on wood). I was a little concerned initially because when installing the new keys and springs I was able to push them in easily by hand, making me wonder if the fit was too loose. If anything does come loose again, I'll really be at a loss since as far as I was able to determine the mounting brackets on both spindles measure out to be the same on both sides. In any case, seems relatively safe to say that if your caliper falls off while driving, you almost certainly need new calipers lol Thanks for the follow up. The fact that it hasn't come off again is a good sign that you probably have it whipped.

No, it does not. The engine is offset to the passenger side by 1.625", so the fan will have some more room depending on where I place it. 1 5/8" isn't a whole lot, and if the rear of that fan is more than 3 1/4 in diameter it doesn't really help. Right?

Good question. But, if I remember correctly Cory said he had to offset the engine. So does the water pump shaft actually hit in the center of the radiator?

I always stop, backward or comment movies each time a Bullnose (or even an older gen F-Series) appears on screen. Which earns me to be booed every time. My wife is used to it.

I think the new adhesives are more than strong enough to use rather than welding. So if I were going to do body work I'd plan to glue panels in rather than weld. (But I'm not going to do body work.) On the u-joints, if I remember correctly I went with mostly joints that can be greased when I put BB back together. That's because I expect to be off the road many times with it and have been advised I should periodically flush the joints with new grease because of that. But on the front axle I went with solid joints as they are such a pain to get to and can be subject to intermittent load if the front bounces while you are on the throttle climbing, and the solid ones are supposed to be stronger. And so far I've had no problems with the ones that can be greased. And that reminds me, I should grease them! Edit: I also installed a u-joint backwards. It was in the front driveshaft IIRC, and the zerk fitting hit something when in 4wd causing a noise. Normally I wouldn't pull a u-joint and put it back in, but since it was brand new and no damage had been caused I did pull it and turn it around.

Nice looking Bronco! And to find one that hasn't been molested is wonderful. And rare. I like it.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Man, having not been on the road in 22 years you may find a whole bunch of things to work on. But hopefully it'll come back to life easily. You'll have to start a thread in the main section so we can follow along on your adventure. And pics would be nice. You can see how to post them on the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and can add you with a city/state or zip.

Ok, the new Idle Air Adder for ECT table is shown below. And the way I got to the 86 - 136F #'s was "scientific". I opened the log file in Excel and created a new column that shows the Desired RPM minus the Actual RPM. And with a bit of looking it seemed that the first place it was going quite low was at 86F where Actual was from 94 to 148 RPM lower than Desired. But I couldn't put "94 - 148" in as I need a single number. Fortunately Excel has a feature where if you highlight a number of cells it'll give you the average of them. So I found the first time the ECT went to 86 and the last time and highlighted all of the RPM differences between them and got an average of 119 low. But Binary Editor won't take 119 and turned it into 120. Then I did the same for 96F up through 136F, but by the time it got to 136F Actual and Desired were quite close. We are headed to Grove tomorrow to decorate graves, but I hope to write this tune in on Sunday and then start it up to see how it does at idle as it warms up. Then I can tweak it a bit more if needed, but hopefully it'll be pretty close and I can move on to the next problem - getting the idle down to Desired after it warms up.

Mission accomplished! As for the problems set out above, I want to think through the issue of the idle going below the desired idle when the engine was cold. In the chart below for Idle Air Adder For ECT you can see how I modified Big Blue's table on the left, and what it was on the right. And on the chart the green line is what I have in BB and the blue line is the original settings. I did this to get the idle down when the engine was cold, and it worked - too well. So I'm going to put some air back in while the engine is cold. And I'll figure out how much to put in by subtracting the actual idle from the desired idle at various Engine Coolant Temps and then adding some back in. I want to get another tune ready to write and hopefully put it in and test it on Sunday.

I have a Coverlay dash cover, which is the brand most places sell, on Big Blue and I like it. For a daily driver or a nice truck it works well. But for Dad's truck, which will be a trailer queen, I'll probably go with a new dash pad, which is almost 3 times the cost.

My 1980 F150 Flareside had the same drivetrain when it was new. 302, T-18 Warner 4spd, and 3.50 gears (with limited slip rear too). I have the Marti in PDF...not sure how to post it large like that? Edit:...sorry, mine came with a 302 and was swapped to a 300 inline 6. I thought this one was a 302 factory. We can post pdf's on here by embedding them. I do it all the time, so if you want send me the file and I'll post it.

Two things. First, MPG. I've been getting the truck ready for 200 mile round trip to KS on Monday, and today I filled it up with gas. Well, I filled the rear tank up and put 4 gallons in the front tank before the pump tripped off at $100.00. So I'll use the rear tank on the trip to/from KS, which it should do easily as the 19 gallons in it should get us 266 miles at 14 MPG - and I'm pretty sure it'll do it. And I'll switch over to the front tank for letting my brother and nephews "test drive" it so we stay true to the MPG quest. And, speaking of "test driving" in filling the rear tank I did the math and the truck got 9.4 MPG for those 160 miles. And I think that is exceptional as there weren't any "easy" miles in it. Quite a bit of the time it sat warming up in the driveway w/o racking up any miles - I'm sure that it idled at least 40 minutes sitting still. And when it was being driven it was accelerating hard, with at least 6 WOT runs from 5 to 75 MPH. So I'm pretty happy with 9.4 MPG, strangely enough. Second is the idle issue I'm chasing. Or more correctly, "issues". Below is a chart from BE of starting up at 64F and idling for a bit over 6 minutes before taking off. And here are the issues I'm seeing in it: At startup the idle went to 1400 RPM for about 6 seconds before coming down, but that is in spite of the desired idle speed being 928. After 60 seconds the idle speed has come down to 583 in spite of the desired RPM being 704. At the 314.9 second point, where the white line is, the engine has warmed up to 134F and the idle has come up to 609, which is getting close to the 656 that was desired. Finally, after almost 10 minutes (577 seconds) the engine is at 170F, after the thermostat opened opened @ 186F and then the ECT dropped to 164F, the desired RPM is 640 and the actual is 720. But, a bit later the actual RPM was more like 800. (Remember that each trace is on its own scale so you can't compare them.) So I have some things to sort out, and I especially want to get the idle down to about 650 as at that point you can come out pretty quickly on the clutch in 2nd and be going. But much faster than that the clutch chatters and starts are jerky. I did a LOT of reading today about dialing in the idle, and one thing I read said that if your long-term fuel trims at idle are more than 5% off, meaning less than .95 or more than 1.05, then you have a fueling problem and that must be sorted out before trying to dial in the idle. Mine are running around 1.10 to 1.14, so I need to figure out what is going on there.

Well, I'm on the side of I LIKE THEM! When will they come in?

Man, that doesn't sound like the Bullnose Forum attitude! Abandon needy brothers for a 2-week backpacking/camping adventure in Utah? Seriously though, I am jealous!!!!! I love Utah. But the only thing I'd change is I'd take my truck and not a bike. Otherwise, HAVE FUN!!! We will miss you but expect to see pics.

Let me guess - another utility knife blade hammered in to separate the parts? But you got it apart and back together and I’ll bet it doesn’t leak. If so, maybe you can also fix mine?

That's an interesting approach to a cam bearing installer! All the ones I've used have needed a hammer to drive them in, which is always worrying since it is so easy to go too far. In yours you'll have a whole lot of control. And your engine should be stout. At first I was worried about the compression ratio until you mentioned the heads. They should tame that compression.

I put small fuel filters on my vent hoses to keep critters out.

Well, things are looking up. We are almost done with the dresser, and the security system guy was out and seems to have fixed it - again. Hopefully it stays that way. (But one of the systems w/o a monthly charge would be nice.) And, a guy in the EFIDynoTuning forum gave me a link to this page which has "strategy" documents for several EEC's. I've been perusing the one for LHBH1 and it is quite interesting. And long - 892 pages. I think that one is bank-fire but MAF, so isn't completely accurate for our systems, Bill, but it is interesting reading nonetheless and explains how a bunch of the calculations are done. And, it says "FoMoCo, PROPRIETARY & CONFIDENTIAL". However, it still doesn't map BE-speak to Ford-speak or Decipha-speak, so I'm not quite ready to start doing the idle air flow work that I think is needed. But maybe I can get there by comparing Decipha's descriptions to those in BE. We shall see.

Glad you are taking it easy. As for the studs, do you plan to change them all out?

That hose is the vent from the transfer case, and it is held to the shift lever up under the shift boot. But I don't know what the other thing is. And the sloppy issue is probably due to the plastic fingers inside the transfer case being worn out. If that is the case then there's no way to fix it w/o rebuilding the transfer case.