Gary Lewis

Very true, Jim.

It does. I had to knock some high spots off the cam journal, which helped. Then I made sure all the bearings were perfectly straight and not cocked in their bores. Got the cam all the way in, but the breakaway torque required to turn it was pretty high - certainly out of spec, if there is a spec on that. I took the block with the cam in it to my mechanic, he is a racer and has built engines all his life. He took a brass drift and tapped on the cam all around to knock the high spots off the bearings. This helped some, and we finally got it to the point where he said "it's tighter than I would like, but I would run it like that." So no loctite on the bearings, and hopefully the cam will wear in without drama. I think it'll work if it is well lubed for startup. I've seen blocks with core shift such that the cam bearings aren't lined up perfectly. (And the mains weren't either.) I'm wondering if that's the problem here.

That would be the "SMOD" 4spd OD trans. Should be code "B" under Trans on your certification label. Relatively uncommon trans. https://www.f150hub.com/trans/t170-smod-srod-tod.html There were two "early" Bullnose 4spd OD transmissions. The SMOD had the three side mounted ("SM", of the SMOD) shifter linkages, and the SROD had the single rail shifter (SR) with the shifter mounted way at the back of the transmission. The quick way to ID that you have an SMOD or an SROD is that the shifter is way back by the bench seat, in the rear of of the tunnel cover like yours is. Then you look at the linkages to determine SR or SM. The later 4spd OD trans was the TOD, but it was an aluminum trans, and the shifter was forward in the tunnel cover, like a regular/common/current manual shifter. Good job, Cory!

The D7TZ is 1/2 - 13 thread the C5TZ is 9/16 - 12 thread and what I need as the block thread is 9/16. The bushing ends all look the same of the early one I just dont know what mine is. As for the 3D / machine I did not mean to machine a 3D one, do 1 or the other LOL Its what ever I could find around here that could make the part if I had a good one for measurements. Now where would I put a spare part I would not loose when I need it Dave ---- Larry - I hope Jenn doesn't get it and that you get over it very quickly. Dave/Jim - I'm thinking that a piece of 3/4" rod could be turned down to 5/8" on one end for the Z-bar and turned down and threaded on the other end to 9/16-12. And if you didn't have a way to put flats on it then put it on using vise grips, or tack weld strap on it. Or better yet - thread the outside and put a nut on it with a tack weld.

Welcome! Glad you joined. And, I'm glad you got it running and have sorted the electrical gremlins. As for reliability, in my experience that takes frequent driving which will bring the problems to the surface. Unfortunately with the price of gas that can be expensive, but I don't know how else to made the problems appear. Do you plan to drive it to the East Coast? Or have it shipped? As for the move, that will be a major one. Is it job related? Last, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can put you on there now and move you when the time comes if you'd like.

Good job, Jim! Yes, I thought it was Matt, but even then I couldn't find it. Well done!

Larry - So sorry to see that you and Jenn have COVID! I hope both of you get over it quickly and w/o any lasting problems. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig.png Dave - Here's the Bullnose part number for the pivot: And here's the earlier part number for the pivot. You might measure yours and see if one of these will fit: And here's the illustration:

That looks like a really neat show! And, it also looks like you got the AFR dialed in. In the first pic I think I see a 51 Buick, and the 3 Customline Ventiports would indicate a Special. Then a Pontiac, possibly a '67. Then a 56 Olds, then Eddie and the Lada. In the 2nd one there's the Beemer, a '57 Chevy, a '57 Ford that the lady is leaning on, and then a Volvo behind the Chevy? I think Eddie wins the prize!

Jonathan - Man, having that thing just snap off is a real bummer. And apparently it isn't so unusual with those things. I hope you can keep that one running. But how close are you to getting another one going?

And, here's the latest suspect: Dashpot Preposition. As you'll see in the writeup, it says "the basic concept may be envisioned as a sort of parallel throttle", so this is in addition to the air that the ECU thinks is needed to let the engine idle. In the screenshot below my #'s are on the left and Bill's are on the right. I'm thinking this may well be the culprit, and I think I'll set all of those numbers to 0 and see what happens.

So the computer wasn't controlling the RPM. And now I'm on the hunt for what sets the ISCFLG... I found the parameter Lower Limit to Enter Dashpot RPM Control, which says "When airflow is less than this value the ISC RPM Control is enabled and dashpot decay is complete. When the airflow is greater than this value then ISC Dashpot is active." My parameter has been set to .12 while Bill's is set to .4. However, the AM value, which is "Mass Air Flow" and I think is the parameter that is being monitored, was running at 1.2 - 1.25 during idling. So I'm going to set the value to 1.4 and see what that does. Hopefully it will case the ECU to control the idle RPM, but without causing other problems. Well, 1.4 for the Lower Limit to Enter Dashpot RPM Control didn't do it. After it fully warmed up the idle is more like 850 RPM and the "AM" value is running between 1.4 and 1.5 at idle. But 700/850 * 1.5 = 1.24 which was the AM value before, so that fits. Given that it isn't surprising that the ISCFLG never went to 1 indicating we were in RPM Control. Said another way, it is idling too high which causes the AM value to exceed the point at which it should go into RPM Control, which would then lower the RPM. Sounds like Catch 22. At first it sounded like a vacuum leak to me, which would cause it to run fast because the ECU would have to add fuel to make it stay at the desired AFR ratio. But I checked and the Idle Speed Controller's duty cycle is running about 44% at an 850 RPM idle, so that's where the extra air and the associated high idle is coming from. Looks like I need to track down why the ECU thinks it needs to be pulsing the ISC that much.

I've not been around the M5OD, and since I don't recognize that tranny maybe that's what it is. But, is the tranny original to the truck? If so you can ID it from the certification label on the driver's door jamb. Decode it at Documentation/Specifications/Certification Label. Click on the "C" that is in the sample certification label for the transmission code, or go directly there at Documentation/Specifications/Transmission Codes.

BumER! Did the thermostat slip out of the depression? Or is that one of the ones that the thermostat can't slip out and the pot metal just failed? And 1/4" is a lot of slop on a water pump pulley. I'm surprised you weren't spewing coolant past the seal. Yes, you need to give it some TLC. I'll bet it is lonely and its feelings are hurt. But glad you got it back on the road, sorta. I HATE fixes where you didn't really fix it as you know it'll come back to bite you at the worst possible time.

Well, it has been several days since I posted, and that's 'cause I've been doing other things. But this morning I thought I do some more learning about the EFI and try to figure out why I can't get the idle down to the Desired RPM level of 648. Instead it has been hanging in around 700+ RPM and isn't constant. In looking at the log of the idle after I'd driven the truck and it was fully warmed up I discovered that the Idle Speed Control Flag (ISCFLG) = 0. But the writeup in BE says that: So the computer wasn't controlling the RPM. And now I'm on the hunt for what sets the ISCFLG... I found the parameter Lower Limit to Enter Dashpot RPM Control, which says "When airflow is less than this value the ISC RPM Control is enabled and dashpot decay is complete. When the airflow is greater than this value then ISC Dashpot is active." My parameter has been set to .12 while Bill's is set to .4. However, the AM value, which is "Mass Air Flow" and I think is the parameter that is being monitored, was running at 1.2 - 1.25 during idling. So I'm going to set the value to 1.4 and see what that does. Hopefully it will case the ECU to control the idle RPM, but without causing other problems.

My bad, Peter. See if it is better now.

You are now on the map, Peter.

Hey Gary, Yes the push button start is original. The ignition switch is really just a power switch. I was thinking of converting it to a later style dash ignition switch, like from a first gen Bronco or a pickup mainly for simplicity, but since I have modified the original steering column, I no longer have a horn, so I was thinking of converting the starter push button to a horn button. We'll see. I'll see how it all looks when I start chopping the original wiring away... Yes, that would work nicely. The original start push button would probably look "factory" but would serve well for the horn.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. And that is a nice truck. Hope you'll start a thread in the main section to tell us more about it and let us follow your work and journeys on it. Would you like to be on our map? You can see it at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map and you'll see that you aren't the only Aussie here.

That wiring should work nicely. But is the push button on the dash for the starter original? If so I think I'd leave it. If not, I'd do as you said and use a later switch with start included.

That's a nice Bronco - I think. But it is hard to tell with those pics. For that much money I'd expect better pics to let me know just how good it is.

Chad - There is a ground on the firewall that the lights do use, and it can certainly do this. I'd say it is to the left of the radio and to the right of the throttle pedal, and it may well be the problem.

There's an eccentric that adjusts the caster and camber. I used this one on Big Blue with his D60 front axle, but there are ones for the TIB and TTB front ends as well. Moog K80108 Caster/Camber Adjusting Bushing

Yes, it is a nice truck.

Wow, you are fast!