Gary Lewis

I like those. Have considered them for Big Blue given how far out the tires sit and the mud they throw.

Yes, that's a really nice truck.

The fact that most people do not flush the brake fluid is the cause of most brake problems on any vehicle, including these trucks. We have a Mercedes and take it in religiously to have them do the A and B services. One of those includes flushing the brake system and replacing the fluid. I think that will enable the system to function properly for many, many years. So I guess I'd better do that for my "new" truck, Blue.

Yes, the problem is with the batteries we are using - Odysseys. (Can't say about the Optimas as I haven't tried one of them.) I've included pics of what I did below. But I think Scott 3D-printed something for his batteries, although I'm not finding what he did via a search. As for the triangular bracket, given the way the Bullnose battery tray is supported it is probably needed. But I don't think they are necessary with the later tray. However, since I use Big Blue off-road I did use them on both batteries to ensure the really heavy batteries cannot move.

Man after my own heart! My theme song: Might As Well.

Right. But the problem Scott and I have is that our batteries don’t use the base clamp like most batteries do. So while we have the 87-96 battery tray we have to have a top clamp.

Or someone put the arm on out of sync. I'd pull the arm and put it back where it should be when parked and see if that fixes it.

Yes, you did!

Sorry, have been traveling today. But you figured it out - you have the wrong sending unit. The Bullnose senders have ~12 ohms for Full and 72 ohms for Empty. The later sending units are reversed and have a different range, like 22 ohms for Empty and 120 ohms for Full. You may have a problem as the sending units and tanks are keyed, with the key on the sending unit and the slot on the tank. So if the later sending unit fit then you probably have a later tank, or someone cut new slots or cut the key off. A way around it is to use a MeterMatch, which does allow you to match the sender to the gauge. I'm running one and it works.

Thanks for the info, Larry! And when the pressure bleeder gets in you'll be amazed at how easy it is to bleed brakes with the new master cylinder.

You are now on the map.

I saw that somewhere else. Very cool!

I have experience using the later Fuel Delivery Modules, which is what Ford called the in-tank pump/return valve/fuel level sender, on a carb. My first attempt to regulate the high pressure down to ~5 psi was with a return-style regulator and it didn't work well as I had rapidly spiking pressure. I then added a dead-head style regulator after the return style and that worked perfectly. As for the baffling, I have a 38 gallon Bronco steel tank and it doesn't have any baffling at all. I didn't use it as it is for the Bullnose pump/sending units and the slots in the opening that take the "key" in the sending units is in a different place for Bullnose vs FDMs. And the FDM's sending unit can be made to work with the Bullnose gauge with a MeterMatch.

I hope it goes very smoothly, and inexpensively.

I'll have my that there's no damage and the kit provides the needed adjustability.

Welcome, Jake! Glad you joined. Sounds like you know your way around these trucks, but we'll be happy to help should you need it. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state. On the frame horn, later frames are different in that area so you need a Bullnose piece. How are you going to attach it? Fishplate? Anyway, I hope you'll start a thread in the main section and show us how you do it.

Yes, it looks quite bare in there! Glad you can work with that. But it is a milestone to get all set up, ready for the installation.

Easiest thing to do is ground the wire from the sending unit, which should send the gauge to Full in a few seconds. Or put a test light on that wire and it should flicker. If the oil pressure gauge is working then the ICVR is working. It feeds the oil pressure, coolant temp, and fuel level gauges so if any is working it is. The output of the ICVR is a chopped DC voltage to a DVM will show all sorts of voltages and isn’t much use. Hence the light.

Welcome! That list certainly IS impressive. What part of Utah? I ask for two reasons - first, because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member’s Map in the menu) and can add you with a city. Second, because I’m jealous. Love the state. Have read every Zane Grey novel, many of which are set there. And have been on Powell, back when it had water, several times. Plus I’ve visited all the national parks.

That’s cool, Matt! When is it happening? Show us pics.

New shoes!!! And new wheels!

Been there, done that, and didn't record it either.

That seems like a very productive day, in spite of the lack of glitz. Getting the fuel pressure down will have effectively lowered the fuel level in the carb and leaned the mix out, and it was obviously too rich. As for the tranny, I don't know unless you are using so much less throttle that it shifts differently?

The ceramic ones are supposed to hold up to heat better. But apparently they can break.

The mechanism in the column is broken and needs to be replaced. They should cancel.