Gary Lewis

I think you are making progress, but two steps forward and one back is no fun. Is the new MC the old cast iron style or new aluminum?

I don't know that it is a problem, and I don't think that I'd worry about it. But that's just my opinion.

Wow, that's obviously the problem. And with that pin in the new one it'll be easy to align things. You'll have wipers, and all of the other accessories, at all times. I need to do something like that on Big Blue. Twice lately when my brother has driven he's not rotated the key back far enough and the A/C didn't come on. I've not had that problem, but obviously something's not quite right so I need to fix it.

That is excellent progress, Bob! That's a really BIG step. And it is all tucked up under there very nicely. Good angles, good protection, and lots of clearance.

That is a really nice looking bike! I think you made a whale of a deal.

How about reading us the ID # from the back of it and I’ll see if I can cross-ref it to a PN and then find the application?

Looks great. Hope you get a chance to put it on later today.

That's neat! Would have looked good on Big Blue.

Well, I’ve been on the forum longer than anyone else, and at 75 I certainly qualify as an old timer, but I didn’t know about that. Pretty cool!

Looks good, Bob. I'll bet it feels really good to be making progress,

Working here too! Thanks Gary for fixing it! Thanks for checking, Jeff.

Excellent!!!

After I posted that I was afraid you'd read "solid" the wrong way. I knew that the steps are tubes, but I was really asking if the mounts are stout, and you answered that. Anyway, glad it worked out!

I forgot where you are! Yes, the later tanks fit, sorta. I'm running a '96 tank in Big Blue and it fit perfectly. BUT, you need to run the '96 fuel delivery module as the slots in the tank don't match the Bullnose senders. And the later FDM's have a pump, switching valve, and sender in them. You could notch the new tank's opening to take the Bullnose sender, but you'd need to paint the notches to ensure they don't rust as you'd be taking the galvanizing off. Or, you could do as I did and use the later FDM, but that creates several problems. First, the switching valve needs power to it and you don't have power to your tank so you'd have to run a wire for that. Second, you don't want the pump to run, and I think you could cut the wire to the pump to prevent that. Last, the sending units have a very different resistance range and your gauge would read backwards and wrong. That can be fixed with a MeterMatch, but that's more money. So it is probably best to try to use your tank.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n119859/PXL_20220609_231654416.jpg Looks like you'd better go with LMC.

No, I do not know what part number you need. That's because there is no entry that I can find in the Master Parts Catalog for the 1980/81 trucks. In fact, the part number you mentioned, E2TZ-1042084-A, isn't even listed. Instead it shows E7TZ 1542084-A as the proper part number, but that surely replaced your number. But no number is shown for the earlier trucks.

Those do look good. Are they solid?

I think that kit has everything, but it also has the rear window seal for the fixed window. Do they have a similar one for the sliding rear window? And speaking of the sliding rear window, the 1980/81 trucks did have them but there was a change in '82. And there is a different part number for the seals for them. And I don't know if the later seal fits the earlier window.

I haven't installed those step bars, but I don't think you should remove the original nut as it is welded to that large washer. Unless the step bars came with their own large washer.

You are right, the computer does a good job of learning, so I don't agree with Ben's suggestion to leave "adaptive" turned off. I know he's run into problems at idle with it, but I suspect that was with big cams that confused the computer. However, my cam doesn't seem to bother it at all. As for the high RPM at startup, I think you are right there as well. I suspect that the parameter is Idle Speed Startup Adder Based Off ECT. In the screenshot below mine is on the left, in green, and yours is on the right in blue. Below is a blow-up the first 39 seconds of the startup. For the first 6 seconds the desired RPM is 976. Then it drops to 960 for another 7 seconds before it starts stepping down. I can live with this as it is far better than the 1400 it was previously going to. But I'll probably try to lower it a bit at some point.

I've purchased from Midwest Transmission and gotten good parts and good service.

Bill - You win! Here's today's first start of the day, which was from 72F. Notice that where the white vertical line is, which determines what readouts show on the left, the AFR was about 16:1 instead of 18 - 19: 1 like it was yesterday. And I've put both desired and actual RPM on the same scale, which I've learned how to do. and save for a bit of difference at startup the actual tracks right with desired. And the fact that the computer is controlling the idle helps with driveability. You can ease out on the clutch at idle and then putt-putt along at 650 RPM with no problems and no bucking. In addition, the dashpot is working well as it holds the RPM up during a shift to about 1000, and that makes it about right to go into the next gear. Overall, I think it is running very, very nicely.

Thanks, Larry. If it works there it should be good to go. With me it might have been in my cache.

Yeah, active people live with a huge list of projects, but time goes much faster than our goals. I suppose that, in the meantime, “bullnosebible.com” should point to this forum. Actually, I get a GoDaddy window saying that this site «is parked». I just forwarded, again, the bullnosebible.com domain to https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/. Looks like it is working, at least for me. But please let me know if it isn't for you, Jeff.

Clint's response was "Write a factory tune and see if it works. Let's check to see if it is something you changed in the tune." So I might write the AGANN/YER2 factory tune to it and see what happens. That's the CA-spec '96/97 tune for a 460 w/a manual tranny, and while I've made extensive mod's to it to turn off EGR, canister purge, misfire, etc, the base tune should work fine. But with the g'twins coming in tonight I think I'll just post this as a bookmark so I can remember where I was in this whole process. I hope to take the kids out in the truck, one at a time, to putt putt around in a friend's field. And, my brother's coming down on Saturday and we'll want to take it out for a spin. So since it's running quite well save for the lean start-up problem, I think I may drive it a bit today to let it learn, and then worry about writing the YER2 tune in a couple of weeks.