Gary Lewis

Wow, you are fast!

This isn't specific to the I6, but it does sorta fit Carter carbs - which is probably what you have. It sounds like you may have float level problem. It might be too low, but in my experience a Carter has both a float level and a float drop setting and if it the drop is set too high you run out of fuel in 2nd gear. I did exactly that in '58 Chevy with a 348 and a WCFB Carter carb. Took off, hit 2nd, and it bogged. I don't know that the float drop is your problem, but I know it can do that. However, there are probably other reasons for it to bog that way, although most of them have o do with fuel and carburetion. So I'd recommend rebuilding the carb as your first step.

Did you take the pic after moving it backwards? These trucks do odd things with the front suspension when rolling backwards.

There is a problem and I haven't been able to get it fixed. But the email usually goes. In the screenshot below you can see an email I just sent you via the forum, but after clicking Send Email nothing happened so it looked like it didn't go. And a few seconds later it said "Verification expired. Check the box again." However, notice the tick in the "Send a copy of this message to me" box. I did that and I got the message in my email so I know you got it. I'll do my best to get that feature fixed, but Nabble isn't working on problems in this right now, so I have little hope it will be. Maybe I can add some text to that page so people will tick that box and at least know the email went - or didn't.

Thanks Gary. Interesting, I'll remember that. Jeff - That drawing makes it look like the resistance wire is easily seen. But it isn't. Somewhere we have a discussion about it and, IIRC, a picture of where it is. However, I can't find it. But I can tell you that it runs in the harness within the dash and is not easily gotten to.

Congrat's! Yes, I know that feeling and may have given the same maniacal laugh.

Yes, although the Bronco obviously has interior and exterior parts that the pickups don't have. But on the common ones they will interchange.

Should be a very interesting addition, Bill. For reference the center console from a later model Bronco that I have in Big Blue is about 20" front/rear and I have the highest part 16" off the floor. That makes it a very nice height to serve as an arm rest.

I don't use Chiltons, Clymers, or Hanes for anything but filling my shelves. They look good there, but I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole for anything but general information. Decades ago I was rebuilding my brother's 903 Kawi using one of those pub's. Was torquing a cam bearing bolt into the aluminum head and it got "greasy" before getting anywhere near the stated torque. I stopped and found the factory spec, which was MUCH lower than theirs. So I swore off the aftermarket books. Instead I use factory publications as they have some serious skin in the game. Imagine what would happen if the factory told every tech in the world the wrong torque spec? Man, that would be costly! But I'm not saying that factory pub's are infallible. I've found errors in Ford's pub's, but I believe there are far fewer of them than in the aftermarket pubs. As for DS-II wiring, it didn't change. Compare it in the 1981 EVTM to the 1986 EVTM and the is no difference.

Yep, that combo should be good for quite a while. Enjoy!

I think I had the same think happen. And if I remember correctly I wound up cutting a slit in the outer sleeve and getting it out with a chisel. But I can't imagine what I cut the slit with, so maybe I just collapsed it with a chisel? Whatever, I do remember being under there for quite a while getting it done. And it was a pain! Things I considered included tapping the sleeve and running a bolt in against the crank to force it out. But I remember thinking the sleeve is probably hardened and won't be easy to thread. And I tried the puller idea, but there wasn't enough room behind the sleeve to get the arms in to grab the back end. So good luck to you!

You may have missed something in the wiring diagram.

That's exactly why I asked to see the certification label. That isn't too unusual. EDIT: Forgot to say you are on the map.

We have a friend that feeds several deer each evening, and they are like pets to him. So I understand.

Oh! Yes, that is rich. I'd shoot for 14.5 - 15 for cruise, and 12 - 13 for WOT.

You are right that there is no external ballast resistor for 70's and 80's Fords. That's because it is buried in the wiring harness, as shown below. It is the 1.1 ohm resistor shown just below the ignition switch. So since you won't have that you need an external ballast resistor.

With WOT at 13 - 13.5 you are maybe a little bit lean for full power. But there's really not a whole lot to be gained in power by going richer, so unless you can easily swap out metering rods and enrichen it a bit I think you are good. And, as you've found, you don't want the choke linkage to be tight. A little loose lets it work at all different temps, so I'm glad you loosened it up. Also, John/Machspeed tells me you'd like a couple of the stickers. I'll get those in the mail to you ASAP.

You are now on the map. But that doesn't look like a moose. Is it a pet?

Good find, David. I don't know that D2AZ-6A312-E is the right one, but it looks to me like it probably is.

I've not used any loctite on bearings. And you shouldn't need it as the bearing should fit tightly enough not to come out. But if there are nicks you can catch with your fingernail then you are right, that might be the problem.

Yes, body & interior parts from 1980 - 86 interchange.

Pulleys are a hard thing to match. And especially if you are going with an aftermarket or dealer-installed compressor. But here's the info from the master parts catalog (Documentation/Engines/Pulleys) on your engine. Note that the # on the pulley is not the part number. The number on the pulley is what is shown in the Description column and that is the ID or Engineering #. Unfortunately the one I think you may need, D2AZ 6A312-E, doesn't have the ID# shown. But our Pulley Identification Chart says it has either a 503 or a 515 on it. Hope that helps.

No, brake lights are hot all the time and are only controlled by the brake light switch on the brake pedal. And on the ignition switch, you can usually turn the key back just a bit and get everything to come on if that is the problem. And look at the instructions on true Ignition Switch tab on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition for installation.

That would get rid of that set of wires hanging between the fender liner and the engine.