Gary Lewis

Today I changed Dashpot Preposition to 0 @ all RPMs and one more culprit has been exonerated. In truth, the air mass value going through the MAF sensor went down from 1.4+ to 1.2+, so maybe if I set the Lower Limit to Enter Dashpot RPM Control back to 1.4 we'd go into RPM control. But even if that worked it would be masking the problem as the factory setting for this tune is .4 and Bill's is at .12. And the Idle Speed Control duty cycle is running at about 35%, so something is calling for more air which is causing the duty cycle to go up and, therefore, the air mass to be too high. The quest is still on...

Yes, it can be done. I've done it. See the page at Documentation/Exterior/BEDS, TAILGATES, & COMPONENTS and then the Tailgates & then Changing Tailgates tabs.

Yes, COVID does cause problems with other diseases. Janey has Sjogren's and/or Lupus, both of which are autoimmune disorders like RA. She came down with something that had all the hallmarks of COVID a few months ago, and while she tested negative we still think it might well have been. Anyway, she shared it with me and I had it for about 10 days. But she had it for about 4 weeks and had a lot stronger symptoms. So I'm pretty sure that was due to the Sjogren's and/or the drugs she's taking to keep it in control. As for the electrical system, good luck! You have have a bad battery cable where the wire meets the connector, so changing them out may well prove and solve that.

Do I need to do that to make my 460 high performance? Seriously though, that should fix the problem and prevent issues in the future.

Add in the power steering problem and it makes sense.

Yes, and it should have three wires to it: Battery Positive: The front large terminal should be directly from the battery's positive terminal Starter Terminal: The rear large terminal is the one that goes down to the starter. It should have battery voltage on it when the relay is pulled in, causing the starter to spin. Small Terminal: An '82 should only have one small terminal, but later relays had two and it is possible someone put one of those on your truck. When battery voltage is put on this terminal, usually via the ignition switch and the R/LB wire, the relay pulls in and connects the two large terminals to each other. So if you use a jumper wire or even a screw driver to jumper from the large battery terminal to this terminal the relay should close and the starter should spin.

Good luck!

I would start by jumpering the hot side of the starter relay to the little terminal on the relay that has the Red/Light Blue wire on it. That will pull the relay in and the starter should run. If that doesn't work then you have either a bad battery cable, bad starter cable, or bad relay - aka solenoid. And we can talk you through how to test each of those. If it does work and the starter spins then you have an issue between the ignition switch and the starter relay. And an '82 shouldn't have the neutral start switch, so the wiring is very simple.

Starters don't usually die that way. Do you have a tilt steering wheel? If so, I think the pot metal piece in it is broken. Been there, done that. Intermittent start. You can see the fix for it on the page at Documentation/Interior/STEERING COLUMNS & STEERNG WHEELS. Jumper from the hot battery terminal, either on the battery or on the starter relay, to the front small terminal on the relay/solenoid. That should pull the relay in and run the starter. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE IT IN PARK AND THE PARK BRAKE IS ON!

Dave - Yes, my idea was to cut it, drill it, and tap it. But don't drill/tap too deep and you don't want to get into thin metal where it tapers down towards the end. And you want the hole square to the flange so it'll seat flat against the block. Bill - That's cool! Seriously, that's going to make a neat addition to Darth.

Jonathan - Sorry to see that Sheri isn't well. Is it still from COVID? On the electrical problem, might it be a fuse link? They burn through inside the insulation and look like they are good, and the insulation can hold them together well enough to work now but not later.

The regulators I've had came with an L-shaped bracket the screws to two holes in the bottom of the regulator. And it has a 3/8ish hole for a bolt to hold it to the block or firewall.

Yes it is, that one you cant get any more You can get the plastic bushing, the felt seal even the clip that holds the bushing on but not the screw in pivot. The NOS one I got years ago, I think a member found on Ebay so I grabbed it ASAP. Up till this morning I could not find it and I was freaking out on how I was going to fix this. It was in a box with 2 3 port fuel switching valve (also hard to get) and the inside door handle gaskets Gary sent me with my AMC parts LOL Dave ---- I think the fact that it wouldn't seat down against the base is what caused the old one to break. No matter how good the welds, focusing the force right on the spot where it clears the block is a bad thing. Hopefully the NOS one went down against the block as that will make it much stronger.

I have an idea, but not sure how to go about it. Currently, nobody reproduces the Trailer Special and Camper Special emblems. Do we have a contact (LMC guy?) who may be able to put something together? I would be willing to send the emblem wherever so it can be scanned and go through whatever process needed to make reproductions. Is this even feasable? Shaun - The gentleman from LMC is Keith, and I've tagged him on this thread. And I've met Keith and can vouch for him. Keith - Any interest in being the only place that makes the Trailer Special and Camper Special badges? Shaun has an offer for you. And while I've never met him face-to-face we've been friends for many years via first FTE and now here and I can vouch for him.

Well, I'm sorry but that is a 1957 Chevy. There's no mistaking a '57 from a '58. I've included a pic of a '58 Impala, which is what I drove to college. However, mine never had the ugly mirrors on the fenders and I removed the "fins" above the headlights when I did the body work. Nor did mine have the fender skirts. In the immortal words of the Beatles, it was a clean machine. As for your power steering problems, I think you found the culprit. That would certainly do it. But I'll bet that made a huge mess! And, Stein is going to have a stein?

Yes, that is EXPENSIVE!

Man, that was quick!

Excellent! Glad you got it going.

Core shift is the only conclusion I can come to. I put the cam on V blocks and indicated it while I rotated it, it is arrow straight. Assuming the engine is used and the old cam didn't break, the shift apparently isn't too bad. But the bearings will have to wear to line things up.

Oops, missed that. But I agree, Shaun.

I suspect that is for a medium duty truck. I believe ours just said Custom, as shown below. But I could be wrong. If anyone is really interested I might be able to cross-ref the ID # on it, which is E0TB 10280C82-A.

Oh! That makes a difference. You said it is in a gear but you don't know which one. Have you moved the truck since getting it back together? If not, I wouldn't try for fear that the transmission is in two gears at the same time. I think I'd pull the driveshaft and have someone push in on the clutch and see if I could turn the output of the transmission by hand. And if you can try to work the levers to see if you can get both of them operating.

Your pic is larger than the 1MB max size to post. So I clicked the Big resizing button. And I don't know the answer to the question about what position to be in to be in neutral. But to get it working I would mark where the nuts are on each arm at present, and then loosen them so you can move the levers w/o moving the linkage on the column. Then find neutral by moving the levers and, with the column lever in neutral, tighten the nuts up.

This what the part looked like when I first got the truck and first fix. Here is what the second fix looked like when it broke the first time. I cut the head off a 9/16 bolt for the threads and welded it to the bushing side. When that broke I took that other bolt, cut the head off but this time I drilled down the center of the threads & the bushing and drove in a roll pin then welded it. That is what broke this time and son said the welds were junk and he could do better. Being tired, hot and pissed from not finding the new part I said "if you think you can do better have at it". Think he said he was able to do something with the roll pin like I did but?......... That is when I walked away and have not returned LOL Dave ---- I know this requires a lathe, but so does the other stuff we've talked about. I'd cut the piece as shown and drill/tap it 9/16-12 and run a bolt in with Loctite. But you'd have to make sure you threaded the hole the whole way and didn't leave a place w/o the bolt or there'd be a lot of stress right there. But looking at the original break, it looks like the land wasn't into the block so the threads were taking the bending force instead of the land and hex. I'm assuming the block has a recess that the land goes into and the hex bottoms against the block. Right?

And maybe the last one to leave? Actually, not always. With the 90's tanks and fillers I can pump it in pretty fast.