Gary Lewis

So, apparently it works? 😀

Well done, Scott! (This might be my last post on the Nabble forum. Should be # 40,836.)

Check out the new page for the 2024 version of the truck show. We aren't done as Jaiden, our excellent photographer/videographer, has more she's working on. Truck Shows/2024 Truck Show in the menu above.

Glad you got it sorted, but sorry it took so many tries. Still, forget about the previous attempts and enjoy the smooth and quiet speedo.

G'day, Oly! Glad you joined. 250 crossflow? We didn't get that one here. Tell us more about it? And where in Western Australia are you? We have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, but don't have anyone else in WA. However, you can be on it if you'd like - just give us the city or postal code.

Right, HEI. The instructions are on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition. Then go to the Ignition Simplification tab followed by the One Wire tab. There you'll see a schematic showing how to wire in a relay. But you might want to check to make sure that the guy that installed it didn't put in a relay. I'd follow the wires coming out of it, the low voltage wires not the spark plug wires, and let us know where they go. And, you are on the map.

Looks good, Stein. But I hope you didn't get the coffee mixed up with the oil. And if you can get to 14.7 MPG you have it tuned very well.

We have a page on bumpers: Documentation/Exterior/Bumpers. It may not have all your answers but should be a good start.

Can't believe U-Haul knows what the axle ratio is, so can't understand their position. But it should handle a Bronco well if you have brakes on the trailer. As we discussed yesterday, the 3.07 axle ratio will cause more slippage in the torque converter than 4.10's would. But to clarify, it takes X amount of torque to push the truck down the highway. The rear axle gears multiply the torque so 4.10 gears require about 1/3 less torque through the transmission, which means less slippage in the TC. So the 3.07 gears are going cause more slippage and, therefore, generate more heat. As Jim says, the C6 excels at turning energy into heat. But if you have a large enough transmission cooler you can get by towing with those gears.

John - It was a great time! Sure good to see you and the others and I certainly appreciate the help. I'm hoping I'll be recovered enough that this afternoon after church I can post up the results. Found my reader glasses so maybe I can decipher the names on the many sheets of paper that show the entrants and winners. But I might need some help. As we just discussed via text, there were several learnings so I think I want to start a new thread about that. It'll be generic to shows, not just the result of this one. But I think we need to kick it around and get everyone's input. Again, thanks y'all!

You did really well, Vivek! It has to be that 3.07 axle ratio. And, but the way, here's a snippet from the 1984 Light Truck Data Book showing that axle as standard with a 460 2WD SRW.

The C5 should bolt right on. But I can't say whether the driveshaft will fit, although you should be able to figure that out by looking at the page at Documentation/Driveline/Driveshafts. The main question will be the length, which that gives you. However, the radiator won't work. All gas-powered V8's use a radiator with the inlet on the passenger's side and the outlet on the driver's side. But the 300 six uses one with the connections just reversed. And you will for sure need the right perches & exhaust, and probably a few other things like the throttle cable. You can see a bit of that on our page at Documentation/Engines/Engine Swaps (don't go to the 300 Six To 302 page). There's a list of things as well as a link to another page on Engine Perches/Stands/Brackets.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask for two reasons. First, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could add you with a city/state or zip. Second, maybe you are close to one of us and we could help. As for the engine dying, I'm going to guess that's electrical and that you are losing ignition. Jim's question is, as usual, spot on - when you try to start it does it crank but doesn't fire or not crank at all? I'm not sure when the TFI ignition module was introduced, but that is a module that bolts to the distributor. The 1985 EVTM (Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) shows the 300 had one, but I don't have the 1984 EVTM on the site. I can check after church today to see what the 1984 EVTM shows, but I'll bet yours has one and they are prone to exhibit the same symptoms you are seeing. In fact, Ford lost a class-action suit about that as people had the vehicle dying in the middle of the freeway. We can get into the fix later if you prove that ignition is the problem. And the way to do that, assuming the engine cranks but won't fire, is to check for spark. The quick and dirty way is to pull a plug wire, stick a screwdriver in the end (or an old plug if you have one), and lay the screwdriver/plug on something metal attached to the engine. If you are using a screwdriver you want the handle to lay on maybe the valve cover and have the shaft maybe .1" away from the valve cover but not touching. If you use an old plug just lay it on the valve cover. Then have someone crank the engine while watching the screwdriver/plug to see if there's any spark. I don't think there will be, which means the TFI module has gone bad. Of course, this is while the truck won't start.

Thanks, guys! 31 Ford trucks and a PowerWheels car. More on the latter later.

Wish you could be here, Jim. Oily package?

Yep, you had Colin, Scott, and I in disbelief. But I'm glad it works.

Good shot! That's exactly where we'll put the Bullnose trucks in the morning, and with Big Blue replacing my 2015 on the end and John/Machspeed's Blackie we'll have 6 Bullnose before we even get started.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I got 37 songs loaded, about 2 hours worth, and played them through. Sounded good, but there was a transient noise I couldn't find. It sounded like maybe the wifi connection wasn't good, so I downloaded all of them to the iPad. Started playing them today in the truck just to see what they sound like, and up to a point they sounded good. Then Mustang Sally came on and there was the noise - loud. So I started looking around and then realized it sounded like it came from under the truck. Slid under and the heat shield on the passenger's side had bad, bad, bad vibrations. I thunked it a couple of times and it quit - for a while. So I got the sound deadener out again and put four patches on and it no longer vibes, but we'll see how the stuff holds up when the heat hits it. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg

I might know where you are. 👍 Looking forward to seeing you and your kids.

Depends on how you count. By the way, the C-II pump used in the pickups is the one that sprays if you turn the wheel with the engine off. The Saginaw pump used in the vans doesn’t. Which is one of the reasons I have one on Big Blue.

I think you meant DAHIK 😎

I don’t think that 460 is going to know the difference. But the sound is very different and I’ll smile every time I get gas.

$36,800???? That's a nice truck, but no way do I think it is worth that. The VIN shows it has a 460, but that's not mentioned. Nor is anything said about the driveline and what shape it is in. That is NOT conducive to spending that kind of money. The stakebody is slowing down to take a look at me. But I'm not into the Flareside.

But what if I don't want to let it down easy, CJ?

Boom! You are literally on the map. Love that area of the country.