Gary Lewis

Jim - Thanks for the response and apologies for my belated response. However, you pointed out things I didn't know about the numbering system, which caused me to read more, which pointed out more things I didn't know as well as new things to read, which... And I've been chasing rabbits ever since. Let me give an example. Keith/FORDification has an extensive part number tutorial on his website. And it is similar to the one found on the Classic Mustangs site. But both of those are quite lengthy and difficult to read, or at least are for me as I've had to re-read parts of them several times and still walk away saying "I've got it, I've got it, I ain't got it." So what I'm thinking we need on this site is an easy to read overview that is specific to the Bullnose trucks, but with links to some of the other pages that give a much more in-depth explanation. Thoughts? Please?

It sure looks like there was one there originally. So yes, you appear to be missing one. But do you need it is the better question, and we can't answer that w/o knowing what other hangers you have. So the safest way is to add one there.

Let's tag him for this. Tagging will send him an email to ensure he knows someone is asking.

That sounds like the best kind of a project - one you can use while working on it. And you've made excellent progress. But I know what you mean by the wiring freaking you out. I'm sure you/we can figure out how to clean that up.

I agree. Good luck!

Wow! That is really well done! It looks new!

I'm running 4" F350 blocks in back to level things with the D60 up front, and the original rear driveshaft fit fine.

I'm running the original driveshaft. The ZF5 isn't much longer than the T19 and that shaft worked out perfectly. Don't know what tires you are running, but I have 33's and the 3.55 axle ratio is ever so slightly too high for comfortable 2nd gear starts. And turning corners in the neighborhood is slightly too slow for 3rd gear. So you may find the 4.10 gears will work out a bit better, although the highway RPM will be a little higher than mine. And I'm running the original BW1345 t-case and linkage. However the linkage needs to be adjusted a bit, and here's how I do that:

After explaining to someone recently how the Ford part numbering system works I realized that we don't really have a good explanation thereof. So I attempted to create one today. You'll find it at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers, and I'd appreciate everyone's input on several things, like: Location: Is there a better, more logical, place to put it? Understandable: Does it make sense to you? Upgrades: What did I forget? What else should be included? Thanks!

Congrat's! Well done!

I think you have the right part number, as shown below. However, I've heard those are hard to find so you could use an E5TZ 9K044-A, which is probably what you have. But the E6 replaced the E5 so would be the better one to use - if you can find it.

I sold my essentially-identical unit to Brandon/Bruno2. But he's not collected it so I'm not sure if he really plans to use it. How do you like the D60?

I don't think I've ever seen one, either. But it is a good idea. I wonder why we haven't seen them?

Yes, if the in-tank pumps aren't working I think you'll be low on fuel. I'm thinking you need around 40 psi to let the EFI system work correctly, so if you don't have that then I don't think it'll run.

You are on the map. And you should look up Ecorsini. You can click his pin and then see a link to an email function in the forum. But bear in mind that said function appears not to work so I always tick the box to include myself in the email so I know if it goes. If it doesn't go then come back and I'll get you his real email address. Also, he's not been on in just over two years so may no longer have the truck.

Yes, I think that sound is normal, assuming you have the cylinders well lubed. And I'm adding your video here to make it easier for the others to see & hear:

They look good! I've heard stainless is really hard to bend so that makes them look even better. I bought Totally Stainless lines for Dad's truck and had to rebend every single one of them to get them to fit. So I know a teeny bit about bending the stuff. But not flaring, which has to be a bear!

I have a buddy and his wife that got back from Eastern Canada, Main and islands up that way a few weeks ago with Covid also. Knocked them both out pretty good. Think I will stay home thank you vary much Gary take care of your self Dave ---- Thanks, Dave. I'm gradually getting better.

You are now on the map.

Where's home? We have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

I think I fixed 1 thing but caused another in trying to fix the bucking. Here is my take: Yes I did try a used DSII box, no change, everything else is in good shape. Changed out the coil, no change. Swapped plug wires from bad plug with another plug and will keep an eye on the 2 plugs to see if the wire was the cause or ???? FYI I pulled the metal plug end out of the good wire when I did the swap so the wires will be replaced at some point. In trying to fix the bucking I installed a Ebay carb I have had for a year or so. It runs a lot leaner than the old carb and this may be the cause I have now that is more of a miss than bucking like before. When I changed the plugs this stopped the bucking but now feel a miss just about all the time when driving. Being the AFR is running in the mid 15's to mid 16.s and some times I have seen 17's I think I am feeling a lean miss. I want to richen up the needle and jet to see if that helps the miss. If not I will pick up a pick up coil and change it out. I had seen it posted some where a bed coil was causing a PITA and once out of the dist. he found a crack in the unit. Still trying to fix this. Dave ---- That makes sense. How about just swapping the "original" carb back?

I would say 10K no more than 15K, 2 or 3 oil changes since the truck has been on the road. Figure a little over 3K for each change so guess closer to 10K. I swapped the plug wires with another hole so will keep eye on the 2 plugs. I also pulled the plug end metal part out of the "good" wire so I forced it back in and fingers crossed it holds till I check plugs. I also swapped out the coil, cleaned the connections, not that they were bad and that did not help. You can feel it miss just cruising along and under even light load like pulling away from a light or stop sign. I have rechecked the wires and plugs for the DSII system and they all look good. I have even moved the wiring around with the motor idling and nothing. Only thing that it can be now is the pick up coil. (maybe, see about the lean carb below) All IGN tune up parts have been checked over as they only have maybe 10K on them. Plugs have been changed and that was the biggest change. No more bucking but you can feel a miss when driving. Carb has been swapped out with a new Ebay one. It starts as fast as the old carb but may need to adjust the choke a little. What I dont like is it runs vary lean based on my AFR gauge. Just normal driving holding speed it runs in the high 15's to mid 16's. When I first started it after a cool down, motor still a little warm, fast idle came on but the AFR went so lean it blanked out when I first started driving it and you could feel it "lay down" lack power. It was a little better after it got up to temp but it just dose not feel right. I did readjust the idle speed & mix and will see if I can adjust the needle / jet richer as what I am feeling could be a lean miss fire now? The fight goes on! Dave ---- So even after all of this, including replacing the plugs and swapping carbs, it is still missing? If I remember correctly you have swapped the DS-II module. But you haven't replaced the pickup module. I think that would be my next step as it is the last of the common items. As for "laying down", I do understand that when things go quite lean. But in my experience you don't get the bucking that you are experiencing.

Yes, you did. All is well. As for the instructions, see if the ones on the Tester Instructions tab at Documentation/Electrical/Speed Control are what you are looking for.

Welcome!