Gary Lewis

It dose go low over time but I think it leaks from the NG vacuum valve for the no water flow when the HVAC is in vent. The hose is too large for the valve and I am for ever tightening up the clamps. I hope it is not what you are hinting to other wise Also not getting any white / sweet smoke out the tail pipe or it has not gotten that bad yet? I also dont remember or did not test that far, what hole had the miss when I first got the truck? Also dont remember any of the plugs looking as bad as that one I pulled out. Just a thought I am running coolant to heat the intake for cool / cold weather. I did use a freeze plug in the EGR port with sealer but wonder if the intake had a crack or bad casting and leaking coolant to that hole? It is right at the area where the coolant is. More to keep an eye on now Dave ---- How many miles do you have on those plugs? If it is 5K or so then maybe it isn't a big issue?

Wonderful!!!!!!

I hope not I dont think it uses and oil between changes that I can think of. Now when I first got it back on the road I had a lot of "milk shake" in the breather cap * hose to the air filter and the dip stick tube from condensation that I dont have now. I also have not see any oil smoke out the tail pipe on start up or driving. I know before I bought the truck it was only used around the small yard as it it did not have plates while he had it. Bought for his son as a project but son did not like it. Before they told it was a farm truck so may not of been driven much then also? So it could be with me putting miles on it it has "sealed it" by seating the rings better and getting it up to temp and staying there longer? I am going to try and swap the plug wire with another plug if I can and see if it is a plug wire issue by checking the 2 plugs over time. If the other plug dose the same I know it is a wire and not the hole. Maybe I should try and find them plug adapters that we used back in the day when the motor burned oil and fouled the plugs Dave ---- Are you losing any coolant?

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum. Glad you joined. However, you apparently missed the sentence in the email I sent you that said "So please click this link to be taken to a page in the New Members Start Here folder where you can introduce yourself and your truck. We ask that you post there first as we have the guidelines on that page and want to give you every opportunity to read them as we will hold you to them. So please go read the guidelines and post in the NMSH folder. Then we can discuss the manual to the tester. And don't worry, many miss that sentence.

Yes, it is again. Last year about this time we came home from the eastern seaboard with it. And a couple years before that I came home from the Baltic with something. Makes you wonder if it is all worth it. Fortunately Janey hasn't gotten it from me this time. Probably because she had another booster in June or July. But I was waiting for the new one, which supposedly was available the day we left but I wasn't going to chance being ill on the trip from it. As it turns out I was healthy for the trip and got to enjoy it.

Looks like a good buy to me.

Thanks for correcting me, Jim. (My excuse is that I came home from Switzerland with COVID and either it or all the drugs I'm taking to counter it has me in a fog.)

Welcome! Looking forward to seeing pics and hearing the story.

On something as critical as brakes, and on a vehicle you've spent a lot of money on getting "right", I wouldn't mess around with adapters. Get the right drums.

Ouch! That has to hurt. Hope you get the worst of it repaired.

Lares is placing Saginaw guts in a C2 case so you don't need a different bracket. You can read about it here.

Hope they send the money back. But in any event you are on the right track.

Welcome to the site. But you apparently missed Jim's email asking you to go to the New Members Start Here folder and post an intro there. Don't worry as many have missed that before. We ask that because we host the guidelines there and since we hold everyone to them we want you to have had every opportunity to have read them. So please read the guidelines and let us know that you have before we get into the instrument lighting discussion.

Doesn't look like I have that info on the website, so I'll put it here and then transfer it. The first thing to know is that the #'s shown in the illustration section of the master parts catalog are the base part number. For instance 9D695 is the base part number for every FILTER ASSY. (CRANKCASE VENT) used on any Ford vehicle anywhere in the world. Tractors, semi-trucks, cars, etc all use the same base # for the crankcase vent. So you need a prefix and a suffix to go with the base # to have the whole part number. In this case the filter for your truck is E5TZ 9D695-A, which was replaced by E7TZ 9D695-A in 1987. (The "E" means the decade of the 80's and the "7" adds to that, so "E7" = 1987.) But the 1985 part will be marked E5TE 9D695-AB. (A number on a Ford part is not a part number. Instead it is the ID or engineering #. )

New-ark for the others, as opposed to New-erk in Jersey. You are now on the map, and only a few miles from where we lived near the intersection of 7 and Southwood Road. I know your area well.

Welcome. Glad you joined, for a number of reasons - one of which is that there is now someone wordier than I. Seriously though, we don't get charged by the word, so it isn't an issue from that standpoint. But some of the guys quit reading if the post is very long - DAHIK. On the axle ratio difference, you should determine what front ratio you have via the info on our page at Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Front Axle tab followed by the Application List tab. And I think you'll find that you have a 3.50 ratio as the 3.54's came in D44HD's and yours should be a regular 44 from your description. If that's the case I'd find either another 8.8" or a 9" axle from an F150 and slip it in. That's because Ford didn't exactly match the front/rear axle ratios in all cases. As for "retrofitting and reverse-engineering advanced technology to older vehicles", I wouldn't know anything about that. And concerning the 72 years of age, I have you by 4 and Bill has you by 5. Strap in 'cause the ride gets rougher.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Delawhere? That was the question I asked of the couple in Switzerland last week. Turns out they lived just a few miles of where we lived near Hockessin. And he works at Longwood Gardens, so had interesting stories to tell of the recent escapee's brouhaha. But if we knew roughly where in Delaware we could put you on our map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. Just a city or zip is sufficient.

Welcome! That is a very nice looking truck, and I'm impressed that you've kept it so well over the many years. Where's home? We could put you on the map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) with a city/state or zip.

Welcome! Does "Taz" mean Tazmania? If not, where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or postal code.

Congratulatons!!! Glad it worked.

No I have not pulled the plugs yet and have a new set I just picked up and coil at same time. I should say I have seen a coil go bad like you said, arcing from tower to 1 of the wire leads as spark was looking for the easy path to ground. This was caused by bad plug wires where the spark did not want to go to the plugs. This happened when I was just starting out to repair cars so it kind of stuck with me LOLO. When the coil went bad it stayed bad. Again this only happens under load, heavier the load the worst the bucking. I got a feeling the new plugs will not fix it because it would have to be ALL THE PLUGS as it kills the power / bucks. If 1 or 2 plugs failed you could feel that as a miss not shut off like is happening. As for the 16 on the AFR I only seen it pop up. Once I can get it to run with out bucking I will look at the AFR closer and adjust as needed. I also remembered the old carb was missing a part for the needle / jet and think why that carb ran rich. I also seen fine rust in the bowl of the old carb. The new fuel filter on the carb did not have rust come out before I put it on the new carb. Thanks for the help Dave ---- When running the carb I saw 16:1 on Big Blue under light loads with no problems. Tip into it and the metering rods popped up and the AFR came down. As for the bucking, the way you are describing it makes me rethink things. If it is as if the engine shuts off and then comes back instead of just one or two cylinders dropping out then I don't think it is plugs or wires. That sounds like something in common with all cylinders, such as the cap, rotor, coil, coil wire, ignition module, or power supply to the coil. But you've inspected the cap and rotor and replaced the ignition module. So that leaves the coil, coil wire, or the power supply to the coil. If replacing the coil doesn't help then I'd consider getting a Chrysler ballast resistor and bypassing the resistance wire in the harness to see if voltage is a problem. Start the engine and then jumper from the battery to the coil with a wire that includes the ballast resistor. But what if it is fuel? Like too little fuel volume or pressure? I'd think you'd see the AFR go wonky in that case when the bucking starts, and since you aren't I still think it is ignition.

Wow! That's a good find, and should make a huge difference. How did you center the brake drum? It looks like you used some kind of sleeves to secure the drum and probably spun the axle and played with it until it looked like you had it centered. Then put the wheel on and cinch the nuts down. Right?

In my experience a miss under load is ignition. So I'd be looking at plugs and plug wires since the cap and rotor look good. Look for a track or even a crack down the insulation of the plug that might indicate that it has been arcing over. Or maybe throw a set of plugs at it to know that's not the problem. Then plug wires.

If there’s rust on the gear teeth then they are surely pitted and I wouldn’t use them. But if they aren’t pitted that’s a different story. I think I’d be inclined to do the aftermarket approach in the other axle.

I agree! (From France.)