Gary Lewis

Yikes! That looked precarious! But they got farther than I would have guessed they'd get. Those guys and rigs are good, but I think I'd rather be a bit more cautious.

That's one of the Dana kits, as you can see from the entry below. For some reason it is shown for 1983 only, but I think that's because in '84 they changed to a unit from Specific Cruise System Inc. But I'd bet it will work fine on any Bullnose.

Nice! But that shipping is a bit pricey at $30. And I wonder if the plastic tube has gotten brittle over time?

Interesting! The MPC doesn't even list that number, as you can see here: But given the "E0" prefix I looked in the 1980 Accessories catalog and there they are:

Yippee!

Excellent!!!

I thought about relocating the filter for 2 seconds, and then realized that there is no room at the inn. With two batteries, two power distribution boxes, and EFI there is literally no where to put it. So, I have a neat trick that I taught Welder Scott on Saturday. I use a length of aluminum foil and tape it where it'll stay and route the used oil to the catch container. Works very nicely and there's no mess.

Installment #2: Disconnect the lower shaft: The lower steering shaft connects the steering column with the steering box and it must be disconnected from the box to get the box out. In my pics you'll see the Borgeson lower shaft, which is secured to the box via a set screw. But if I remember correctly the stock shaft has a pinch bolt that goes in a groove in the input shaft on the box, meaning it has to come completely out to get the shaft off. But you may not be able to get to the head of the pinch bolt with where the steering wheel is currently pointed. However, you need to take note of where the wheel is currently as you need to put it back there before connecting the lower shaft to the box. Remove the input & output lines: This is where the "fun" truly starts. You really should use a "line wrench" to break the connection loose, as shown in one of my pics below. But once you break them loose, which takes both a 5/8 and a 1/2", you'll want to change to an open end. And even then I had to turn the nut one flat, turn the wrench over and move one flat, etc. (Jim recommends using crowfoot wrenches, but I don't have a 5/8" one of those so didn't try that trick.) Loosen the three bolts: There are three bolts with a 5/8" head that go through the frame to hold the box on. Loosen those and remove one of them but not more than one. That's because the box is heavy and probably covered in ATF, making it slippery and hard to hold. Support the box: You need to find some way to support the box 'cause when you pull the last of the bolts it is going to try to come down in a hurry. In my case I had the truck on the lift so it would have a long way to fall. Given that I put the safety stand under it, which held it while I got the last bolt out and could put both hands on the box.

Here's the start of the how-to. Let's first remove the pitman arm: Remove the nut: That takes a 1 5/16" socket and some means of driving it. My 1/2" impact wouldn't fit between the front diff and the nut so I used a breakover. Since the factory torque spec is 170 - 230 lb-ft you may need a cheater to break it loose. Pull the arm: You'll need a pitman arm puller, as shown below. Mine is a K-D 2289, and it takes a 3/4" socket to drive it. My process is to tighten it up with a lot of force and then smack the sides and back of the pitman arm a couple of times. Then tighten up again and smack it again. Pretty soon it'll pop loose. Secure drag link: If you are using the existing drag link, as I am, then secure it so it won't get damaged as you do further work around it.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Hopefully you can find that part, but they certainly are in short supply.

That's a pretty good load, regardless of what's in it. At highway speeds it'll have quite a drag. So the fact your truck pulled it well says you got things sorted.

I think you'll like 12 degrees. You'll have a bit more spunk from the engine and a bit better MPG, but you shouldn't have hard starting.

I didn't cringe quite as much on this one, but a bit early on when the Pluto script looked like it was endangered. And, at 2:00 your exhaust looked quite rich when you re-started. But other than that, I was amazed at how y'all could go up that trail! Oh yes, I forgot to say I caught that "I'll keep the camera rolling in case you do" in the previous video. And, I like the sections that show up in the progress bar with this editor. I can go back to specific places easily.

Yes, that's a huge difference. I used Fluid Film to spray inside things, so it would probably work for the tailgate. It is oily and creeps in everywhere. As for what year the 'gate is, I dunno. I say that because the 1980 - 82 'gates had the straps and the '83 and later ones had the cables. But there wasn't an EFI'd engine in 1980 - 82. But you can go to our page at Documentation/Exterior/Bed, Tailgates, & Components and then the Tailgates followed by Changing Tailgates tabs. But while it is fairly easy to put a later 'gate on an earlier truck, it might not be so easy vice versa.

Yep, that worked. Man, that had me cringing the whole way! But the bit about coming down was especially bad. But I see what you mean about the cable and gravel/rocks. Yuk!

Shaun - Welcome back, Kotter! Sorry to see about your Ranger, but glad it wasn't damaged more - and that you weren't hurt. On the F350, are you going to be able to get the other dents out? Man, it sure would be nice if Tabco had the bed rail, but it doesn't look like they do.

And you didn't buy it???

I think they can be either badges of honor or of shame. Big Blue sports one on his tailgate that is a shame since I backed into a tree just turning around on a dirt road. But Pluto's ding was gained while trying a very difficult section of trail. Big difference. As for Boulderdash, we can't see it as we get Video unavailable, as shown below. But on the synthetic vs wire, I carry a cover to put on the cable if it encounters something like that. And I've been known to use my floor mats as well.

I think you may be right - starter. What happens is that the bushing on a starter wears and lets the armature get close to the windings. If it touches then the drag goes up dramatically. But when a starter gets hot and everything expands it can touch when it won't when cold. And when it touches it gets hotter, so it expands more, which means it touches more, which.... So if it starts fine cold but not hot I'd start with the starter. And that's a really nice tailgate!

I beg to differ! I no longer have that $%^& carb. But I did as of May, 1969 when I bought a brand new Super Bee. My first Holley and the one that turned me against them. Yes, it was lean off idle and everywhere until the power valve opened. But, after the boom you mentioned the PV was permanently open. Turns out that in '68 the 330 HP 383 got the AVS and the 335 HP got the Holley. But in '69 they reversed it for some reason. The new Bee we bought in '69 had the 330 HP engine as it had A/C and the Torqueflite, which called for the "smaller" cam to keep the vacuum up at idle. And, therefore, the dreaded Holley. However the Bee I have now came out with the 4-speed and the 335 HP engine, therefore has the AVS. But you are right that I have been around a Holley that is lean. Rich is better. Not good, but less bad.

I'm not a Holley fan, but I've never experienced one that was lean off idle. My experience has been that out of the box they've been rich off idle, leading to a less-than crisp takeoff from a stop. But if yours is lean have you tried adding more accelerator pump to the mix? I'd think that would help you see if it is lean or rich. Do you have a 4bbl intake? Or do you have a 2-to-4 adapter? I've not heard good things about those.

Excellent! Glad you got it fixed.

Yep, I see when it happened. But I am amazed at what you can go through or over. I guess dents are badges in that case? They are going to happen when you push it that much.

Well, it looks like you found the problem - the pickup. But introduced another problem along the way, which you solved. Well done! I hope the run with the trailer goes well and you have turned a corner.

Glad it is going. And I'm sure it is running better than ever since you should now have both vacuum and centrifugal advance. Should make a huge difference.