Gary Lewis

The issue with slippage is that torque converters w/o clutches always slip. Below their stall RPM they slip a lot, like when the vehicle is stopped at a light. But even when on the road they slip, and the closer you get down to their stall speed the more slip you have with a given load. So, let's assume you just shifted into OD while maintaining the same vehicle speed. That means you've dropped the RPM 20% and kept the same load. If you were turning 2500 RPM you are now turning 2000 RPM. The stall speed on a Ford C6 is said to be from 1400 to 1800 typically, although it varies by application, with some going as high as 2000. So, if you drop the R's to 2000 you are now much closer to the stall speed and the slippage will increase somewhat for the same load. And, if you put a trailer behind the truck and run with the OD on you'll really be slipping - and slippage is heat.

David - Could this be first a thread in the main part of the forum, and then a how-to page on the web site? I'm afraid if it is explained here in your intro thread it won't be seen - although I could move it if you wanted.

I'm hearing a large sucking sound! I'm now in the shop trying to clean it, but am getting pleasantly distracted by the conversations here. Maybe we should do the smoke test to find the vacuum leak?

Doug Nash overdrive. Jonathan will tell us more about that particular model, but it effectively gives the C6 an overdrive. However, since the torque converter doesn't lock up, and OD is said to cause more slippage in the converter and, therefore, cause more heat. But, if you are just cruising that shouldn't be a problem.

Spare time???? The get-together cum full-fledged show is sucking up a lot of resources. I've posted about it in 14 different forums, and I have gotten several questions/comments from them. Plus there's the planning, speaking of which I still don't have the show classes/categories nailed down and need help on that. Then, someone was silly enough to start a new forum just before said show, and figuring out how to make it work is sucking up even more. There's a bloke in England that is helping by sending really good information on how he's done it - but I have to sit down and read/re-read his stuff to make heads or tails of it. But, it is helping as I now know how to do some things that were frustrating me. Then, my friends are suggesting good additions to the documentation on the web site, like the new TSB's, 3G conversion, and EGR info. And it seems that having the documentation readily available to the forum can be very beneficial and, therefore, help get the forum off the ground. But, the use of the term "spare time" is somewhat debatable. Doing any of the above isn't necessary. So, I guess I have lots of spare time.

Yes, welcome! We are glad you are here. As for thinning the herd, I've had three several times in the last several years, and each time I get a gentle prod to get rid of one.

I had actually thought about going with bigger tires as a way to change my gearing. With the 3.55's I'm always looking for another gear when I get to 4th. And the only time I use 1st is when pulling a trailer. But, I'm probably better off using the ZF5 I already have.

Cool! Yours is prettier than mine. By the way, if you'd stick width="100%" in the code to your pictures they'd show up as full width no mater what device the user is on. Like this, although this doesn't have the <> before and after so you can see it: nabble_img src="IMG_0424.jpg" border="0" width="100%"/

I thought we settled on "hirsute" as a good description of you.

Which "that" do you prefer?

What if this was called something like "Marketplace"? Or "Swap Meet"? And the description explained that it could be for sale, giveaway, trade, or whatever. That way we could have one folder where we could do everything?

We are at 66% and that is high for us.

I'm testing the gallery application on the forum. I'd created one separately, but just learned that we can have one as part of the forum, so let's give it go. Here's Big Blue after I got him home and washed & waxed him: Here he is after adding the nerf bars: Here's the winch installed: And the front receiver:

Oh! Now I think I understand. Got it, got it, ain't got it....

I missed that the carb is a spreadbore. Interesting. Does it have extra-large secondaries? If so, that might mean smaller primaries than the square-bore 650, and give even better part-throttle vacuum. As for making it fit, been there done that. Added a Q-Jet to a 390 back in '72 on my F250. Helped the MPG and the power. But it did take a lot of grinding - in this case on the cast iron manifold to get reasonably-smooth passages.

Ron - How about I state that they are the wrong part and save others the pain? Also, here's a tip on posting pics. Yours come out huge and cause problems for folks as they can't always scroll to the right once the big picture is embedded. But if you were to choose Large as the size and then add width="100%" to the code that is embedded your pics would be the right size for everyone's screen. Here's an example, without the necessary <> before and after: nabble_img src="IMG_0424.jpg" border="0" width="100%"/

I love it: "Take my advice - I'm not using it." But I don't need any textbook examples. If I were to point a finger there'd be 3 pointing back at me. So I'll use my own examples, plural, as they are all too fresh in my mind.

Lol! Yes, you have one. But, thats going to be the even more rare short-bed version. I agree though that you can't put one in the shape the 2wd one is for anything approaching that price. People just don't understand what it costs to refurb a truck. And, as Vernon found out, paying to have it done opens up a huge can of wormy unscrupulous ham-handed incompetent mechanics. The tale of woe on Big Blue is just unbelievable. So, you are far better off economically to buy it the way you want it to be than to make it so. (You might hear a few of those words at the get-together. If people are interested I'm going to tell them about having a vision and sticking to it, and what it costs if you don't.)

Is the carb in pretty good shape? As for the other parts, maybe today so you can work on it tomorrow?

The engine wasn't yet warm, and our new page on EGR's says the EGR valve won't be open on a cold engine. So the Venturi effect was chilling the carb enough that water was condensing out of the air. Cool! Literally! That really is a good example of why heat is plumbed to the carb. Think what would happen at cooler temps. Now, I do wonder about one of your statements though - "the humidity was not high"? I guess the reader has to know that was Alabama in August to understand that the humidity was probably 70%, which isn't high for then and there. 😅

You might want to read the info on EGR valves here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/egr-system-description--testing.html. And note that part that says there should be no vacuum to the valve when the engine is cold or at warm curb idle.

Wow! Nice truck! Probably well worth the price. Looks like it has a Ford bull bar on it.

No problem. It just takes a bit longer to work through things without punctuation. Anyway, check the distributor to see if it turns easily, and if it does check the oil pump. Something caused the problem. But one question is what cam you are running. A bronze gear should work well with any combination, but something caused the gear to break. So, check the dizzy and the oil pump and let us know what you find.

I should also have said that if you have to troubleshoot it yourself, meaning you don't have a warranty, you should see if the distributor will turn freely. If it will, then see if the oil pump will turn. Do that by reaching down into the engine where the distributor sat with a socket tapped to an extension so it can't come off. I think it is a 5/16" socket, but don't remember for sure. But you want to engage the oil pump shaft and see it it turns. In fact, you can prove it works by using a drill to turn it, and you should see the oil pressure come up - with the key on.

Hello, and welcome! But I need to ask some questions as I'm struggling a little bit getting my head around your post. First, is your carb a 2bbl or 4bbl? The 351W came both ways that year, and the 2bbl version had a computer and the 4bbl didn't. So we need to know what we are dealing with. Second, was it running correctly just before stopping as if someone turned off the key? Any backfires or poor running? And especially, had the oil pressure been changing? I ask the above because the crankshaft turns the timing chain, which turns the camshaft, which is geared to the distributor, which has a shaft down to the oil pump. I bought a 351W on which the oil pump seized, which stopped the distributor. But the engine was still spinning so it broke the teeth off of one side of the distributor. I wasn't there when it happened, so I don't know if there was a huge backfire, but I can see that could happen as things come to a screeching halt. The fact that your dizzy has teeth broken off says the dizzy stopped while the rest of the engine kept turning. That can happen with either the oil pump or the distributor itself seizing. In either case you have the teeth that must be found. And the culprit must be found. What warranty on the new engine do you have? Hopefully you have one as it is possible damage has been done due to loss of oil pressure. (And, by the way, it would help us help you if you could use a little bit of punctuation in your posts. We can only truly help if we understand, and it wasn't easy reading your post.)